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Old 09-17-2013, 11:46 AM   #1
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Front Jack

2008 Endeavor with the 3 point jack system. Front jack base plate is bent up on two sides like you would turn up a cowboy hat (ya I know I should have used a jack pad) . Has anyone removed the front jack themselves and reinstalled? Is it that much of a job? My plan is to remove the jack take it somewhere to be pressed back into shape and maybe have a brace or two tack welded to keep it from bending back. Thoughts, suggestions?
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:11 PM   #2
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Brian - I have unfortunately not got an answer to your question (someone else will I am sure), but I am interested in how you got that plate bend in the first place. I thought they we almost indestructible.

Good luck with your repair, and do let us know how you get on.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:49 PM   #3
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I removed a rear one for a rebuild and it was no biggie at all. It was held on with 3 or 4 bolts with nuts and lockwashers. I removed the fluid line and the bolts and it dropped right out. I think there was thick rubber bushings that went between the frame and the jack.
Be sure to keep the fliud line clean and not allow any debris into that line. I put a small plastic sandwich bag around the fitting after it was removed and zip tied it to keep it clean for the few days it was off.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:51 PM   #4
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Not sure when or where it happened. Just started noticing my front jack was getting more prone to sinking into the ground and hard to retract. Since the front jack is so far under the coach I normally only look at it if I get an alarm showing the jacks have not retracted.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:56 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97windsor View Post
I removed a rear one for a rebuild and it was no biggie at all. It was held on with 3 or 4 bolts with nuts and lockwashers. I removed the fluid line and the bolts and it dropped right out. I think there was thick rubber bushings that went between the frame and the jack.
Be sure to keep the fliud line clean and not allow any debris into that line. I put a small plastic sandwich bag around the fitting after it was removed and zip tied it to keep it clean for the few days it was off.
I like the baggie idea. Did you have to bleed the system or add fluid when you reassembled ?

Getting boored sitting around home recovering from total knee replacement and planning all the repairs/maintenance I want to do as soon as I am able.
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Old 09-17-2013, 01:56 PM   #6
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I like the baggie idea. Did you have to bleed the system or add fluid when you reassembled ?
Brian,

I may not fully understand your problem, however, it appears to me that you may be making this a much bigger issue than it is.

I, too, had a leveling jack foot pad that looked like a taco. You don't have to tell me how that happens, I know. On my 2009 Monaco Diplomat with a three point Lippert system, the leveling jack foot pad simply bolts to the hydraulic ram that extends down from the cylinder, I don't recall the exact size of the bolt that goes thru the pad into the ram, but, I was able to remove the bolt without much difficulty.

Once I had the "taco" off, it appeared there were two solutions: big hammer of buy new. I opted for the big hammer solution and it seems to be fine. Not perfectly flat as it was when new, but, much better than a "taco" and fully functional.

Lippert offers a replacement (Lippert Components RV Parts and Accessories|Hydraulic Slide and Leveling Components) that looks like this:

for $36.79.

If that's not the problem your trying to solve...well, never mind.

Just don't be breaking hydraulic lines unless you really need to.

BTW, I'm much better about using a pad under the jacks now.

Take care,
Stu
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:01 PM   #7
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Almost wishing mine were Lippert jacks. Unfortunatly I have Power Gear jacks and unless I am missing something there is no bolt in the bottom.
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:42 PM   #8
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Brian.....How about taking a 4x4 block of wood and lower the jack down so the wood is between the two bends. Once the weight is on the 4x4, use two big pairs of crescent wrenches, adjusted down to the thickness of the metal, and see if you or a husky youngster can bend it back.
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Old 09-17-2013, 11:03 PM   #9
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Brian.....How about taking a 4x4 block of wood and lower the jack down so the wood is between the two bends. Once the weight is on the 4x4, use two big pairs of crescent wrenches, adjusted down to the thickness of the metal, and see if you or a husky youngster can bend it back.
Willing to give anything a try but since it took about 15000 pounds to bend them I suspect even my weight won't be enough to bend them back.
I would heat the foot before doing this but I am afraid I will ruin the seals.
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Old 09-17-2013, 11:31 PM   #10
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Willing to give anything a try but since it took about 15000 pounds to bend them I suspect even my weight won't be enough to bend them back.
I would heat the foot before doing this but I am afraid I will ruin the seals.
Maybe a piston hydraulic tire jack and a 4x4 can be positioned vertically in such a manner to press the ears down. Then have a steel plate welded to the bottom afterwards for extra support.
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Old 09-18-2013, 07:02 AM   #11
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I like the baggie idea. Did you have to bleed the system or add fluid when you reassembled ?

Getting boored sitting around home recovering from total knee replacement and planning all the repairs/maintenance I want to do as soon as I am able.
I didn't bleed the system after I reinstalled. I just filled the fluid and ran it up and down a few times and all is well 2 yrs later.
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Old 09-18-2013, 07:14 AM   #12
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Before going to the expense of taking it to a shop to have it pressed flat go to the Power Gear website. They have lots of information there. They also have a way to contact them with questions. They may have a suggestion that would save you $$$. They certainly should be able to tell you what is involved in removing it. Good luck.
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:17 AM   #13
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Before going to the expense of taking it to a shop to have it pressed flat go to the Power Gear website. They have lots of information there. They also have a way to contact them with questions. They may have a suggestion that would save you $$$. They certainly should be able to tell you what is involved in removing it. Good luck.
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Don't really know if it is true but for some reason I was remembering hearing Power Gear would only talk to dealers. I went to their web site and found the contact information so I sent them an inquiry. Hopefully they will have some easy, cheap, suggestions.
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:51 AM   #14
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Got an email back from Power Gear with instructions on how to identify which jack I have. Went down to the motorhome and was able to identify which I have and sent it off. They say the foot is not repariable but have not said if the foot is removable for replacement. Several people have stated they have a bolt in the bottom of their foot. On closer inspection of mine I see what looks to be a rounded post but no edges for a socket. Looks more like the top of a carriage bolt.
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