Community Forums

StuartT · 04-04-2017, 10:20 AM

One of my front hubs is leaking 90W oil, going dry in under 1500 miles. I don't think I have any damage yet, at least I don't hear anything, but I need to get this fixed ASAP.

Anyone know the brand/model number of the front axles Monaco used in 2005-6? I need a little education so I can make sure the suspension shop I select and I agree on the repair parameters.

jleamo1 · 04-04-2017, 11:18 AM

Stuart, no idea of the brand axle in your year. Our axle in our 02 Imperial is made by Westport. I replaced my seals, bearings and races last year and converted it to wet. My local NAPA was able to match it all up and had it all in stock.

Rsponsford · 04-04-2017, 12:03 PM

I just had my right front seal go bad last Fall. The problem was discovered when I was having the tires rotated. In my case the oil got on the brake shoe. The oil cannot be cleaned or removed once it soaks the brake shoes so I had to replace the front brakes. Of course, you can't (or at least shouldn't) replace only one side so I had both sides of the front brakes replaced. I also had the axle hub seals replaced on the left side as a precautionary measure. Yes, you will want to get this addressed ASAP and be sure they pull the brake drum and inspect the brake shoes as well.

Crabbyjerry · 04-04-2017, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jleamo1

Stuart, no idea of the brand axle in your year. Our axle in our 02 Imperial is made by Westport. I replaced my seals, bearings and races last year and converted it to wet. My local NAPA was able to match it all up and had it all in stock.

Can I ask why you went to an oil bath setup verses leaving the bearings in grease. I have a grease setup and have 35 k on them and want to take a look at them soon. I like that you can Check the oil level but as previous poster has mentioned he has a bad seal. I'm on the fence as I think these sit long times and seals go bad and now it has to be dealt with right away where with grease the bearing should mostly be lubricated unless some reason it burns off. Your opinion please.

StuartT · 04-04-2017, 12:14 PM

Glad to hear that your parts we in stock at Napa jleamo1. We are in Arizona on the final leg of our trip and I would be really ticked if we had to hole up waiting for parts.

I intend to have both sides done as you did Russ. I am really hoping the brakes are not involved, but with this much leakage, I will be surprised if they are dry. Absolutely no signs of any brake weakness or pulling, but only when the wheels and drums come off will I know for sure.

Rsponsford · 04-04-2017, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StuartT

Glad to hear that your parts we in stock at Napa jleamo1. We are in Arizona on the final leg of our trip and I would be really ticked if we had to hole up waiting for parts.

I intend to have both sides done as you did Russ. I am really hoping the brakes are not involved, but with this much leakage, I will be surprised if they are dry. Absolutely no signs of any brake weakness or pulling, but only when the wheels and drums come off will I know for sure.

Yes. I should have mentioned, I had no adverse signs whatsoever of the brakes being contaminated.

William Willard · 04-04-2017, 12:36 PM

Stuart -- We have a 07, 42' Camelot -- It has a Dana E 1462W front axle -- If you want your problem repaired here in the Phoenix area, I suggest Massey`s Diesel -- They are well versed on the Roadmaster chassis -- Their # is 602-233-1700 -- They are located on 67th Ave & Buckeye Road -- I use Lucas Hub Oil in our oilers -- Bill Willard

Bigd9 · 04-04-2017, 12:59 PM

Couple of points:
Brake shoe material is very dense and can be cleaned. However, it takes a lot of brake shoe cleaner and by the time you are done with the mess, buying new brake shoes sure looks like a better idea. They are not all that expensive. Mine were around $50

Secondly, you can replace one set of shoes and ignore the other set IF there isn't a lot of wear on the shoes. The auto adjusters will compensate. On my Freightliner chassis, after 50,000 miles I couldn't even measure the wear difference between the new shoes and the one set I was replacing.

Randyman1 · 04-04-2017, 01:18 PM

Stuart, you have front disc brakes, so you shouldn't have a problem with them. Definitely need to get it addressed though, or you could sling some on to your pads.

8.3Oilbuner · 04-04-2017, 01:26 PM

Good afternoon StuartT; Sorry to hear about your hub leak. Do you have the factory Data sheet in you coach along with all the info that comes in the big Monaco/Holiday Rambler Box. On my Recreational Vehicle Data Card it show that my 01 Windsor has a Eaton E12001. You could call Monaco and see if they could give you the information you need over the phone. Or if you have a printer in the coach they could e-mail the data card to you. Hope this helps in your repair. Just FYI, My previous 2000 Windsor 32PB had the wet hub from the factory and after 9 years of ownership, no problems.

StuartT · 04-04-2017, 02:10 PM

Thanks for all the feedback guys.

First, Bill, I tried to get into Massey's but they are really backlogged and the first appt I could get was beyond our stay in AZ. I am now scheduled for next Monday with Straight Line Suspension in Mesa, who I have used before on my last coach.

I just looked and they are disk brakes, not drum. Hopefully the pads will be okay, but we will see.

Great suggestion to call Monaco. I will do that right now.

StuartT · 04-04-2017, 02:56 PM

I just got a hold Monaco and they told me that it was extremely unusual for wet hubs on Monaco products, and I had to actually convince him that I had wet hubs, i.e. oil plug, sight glass, 90w oil bath.

He said he would have no idea whose hubs these are and that they must have been converted (by the previous owner).

I bought this coach through a dealer and have no access to the previous owner so that is a dead end.

jleamo1 · 04-05-2017, 10:05 AM

I converted ours over to eliminate the repack every other year. Working for a trucking company all or our straight trucks and Tractors are oil filled, it is supposed to help with drag (MPG) the hubs run cooler and almost no maintenance. I will drain the caps every other year and top off the oil which shouldn't take more than 10 minutes a side only as a precaution, it isn't required.
The seals, bearings and races are all the same, just the cap was changed so there is a fill and drain plug and a window to see the oil level. My center cap covers over it.

barmcd · 04-05-2017, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crabbyjerry

Can I ask why you went to an oil bath setup verses leaving the bearings in grease. I have a grease setup and have 35 k on them and want to take a look at them soon. I like that you can Check the oil level but as previous poster has mentioned he has a bad seal. I'm on the fence as I think these sit long times and seals go bad and now it has to be dealt with right away where with grease the bearing should mostly be lubricated unless some reason it burns off. Your opinion please.

There is a lot less expensive maintenance with wet hubs. Leaks are unusual from what I've seen so once you pay to have them converted, there isn't any more maintenance to speak of.

I also have greased hubs and just paid almost $600 to have them serviced. The books says to have them serviced at 30,000 miles or every year. I'm doing it on about a three year average.

I tried to get them converted, but the Freightliner shop close to me wouldn't do it because it's on a Roadmaster chassis, not Freightliner and they didn't want to figure out what parts to use.