Community Forums

Moxy · 05-28-2012, 05:08 PM

does anyone have suggestions on best route to take removing onan 7500 QD diesel genny from 2000 HR Ambassador with no genny slide.

Thanks\\Moxy

Erlingiii · 05-28-2012, 05:12 PM

A little more info would be helpful. Where is the gen located, maybe a photo, the more info the better the advice.

Moxy · 05-28-2012, 05:16 PM

front mount, typical pusher installation, will try to get pictures up thanks

Erlingiii · 05-28-2012, 05:26 PM

I have a 7500 and it is quite a large unit, to remove it requires the removal of either the lower front clip of the mh and sliding it out the front, or removing the crossmember it sits on and dropping it out the bottom. My real question is why on earth do you need to take it out of the mh? Servicing(lube job, and i think glo plugs) can be done where it sits. I hope your not replacing it, it's a $8g unit! And they run for decades. Oh, and if you have an extended warranty, it's covered for 50 bucks.

Erlingiii · 05-28-2012, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moxy

front mount, typical pusher installation, will try to get pictures up thanks

If i had to do it myself, I would first remove the front clip so I can easily access the area, I don't like to cut corners it usually ends up more difficult than if you did all the work, it's the difference in taping the moldings before you paint a wall, or just removing them first.

After removing the clip, disconnect wiring harnesses, fuel supply and exhaust. From there you can assess whether to slide it out the front or drop it(dry its 490lbs)

Moxy · 05-28-2012, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erlingiii

I have a 7500 and it is quite a large unit, to remove it requires the removal of either the lower front clip of the mh and sliding it out the front, or removing the crossmember it sits on and dropping it out the bottom. My real question is why on earth do you need to take it out of the mh? Servicing(lube job, and i think glo plugs) can be done where it sits. I hope your not replacing it, it's a $8g unit! And they run for decades. Oh, and if you have an extended warranty, it's covered for 50 bucks.

fault code indicated temperature sender malfunction, not detecting temperature change in first 5 minutes of operation, automatic shut down, need to removed shroud to re and re sender, no other way unfortunately, I wish there were,

I thinkI will cut the supports, lower the unit and wheel it our from underneath, the jack will lift her high enough hopefully

Thanks

Moxy

Erlingiii · 05-28-2012, 07:05 PM

You shouldn't have to cut out the support, it should be bolted in, but I haven't looked at your coach. I wouldn't cut it out though, its part of the chassis.

Erlingiii · 05-28-2012, 07:30 PM

Can you access the temp sending unit from the small panel on top toward the back of the gen, you may be able to avoid removing it completely

Erlingiii · 05-28-2012, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erlingiii

Can you access the temp sending unit from the small panel on top toward the back of the gen, you may be able to avoid removing it completely

Lifting eye access cover

Moxy · 05-28-2012, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erlingiii

You shouldn't have to cut out the support, it should be bolted in, but I haven't looked at your coach. I wouldn't cut it out though, its part of the chassis.

the framwork holding the genny is welded to the two fram rails, other than supporting the genny it does nothing, it will be bolted when it goes back in, the inspection cover is not accessible unless the genny is removed.

Thanks

Moxy

rex · 05-28-2012, 08:52 PM

Moxy I will describe what was needed on my 01 Diplomat. FIRST thing you need to do is sprat the four mounting bolts with PB Blaster so they come loose rather than breaking off. Do that several times over a couple of days. It will save you lots of trouble.

Next remove the drop down door in front of the generator. Disconnect the wiring on the front passenger side of the generator.

Disconnect the ground - and then the battery cables on the back of the unit.

Now get two clamps and clamp off the two fuel lines, one is fuel feed and the other fuel return. Make sure you mark them. You will still get a little fuel out when you disconnect them.

Remove the four mounting bolts.

Now you will need a motor host or some type of lifting device that has wheels on it. You have to pull the generator forward so it can be lifted. It weighs around 400 lbs. If you have a lift that will slip under the front that is good. if not, look in the top center and you should find a removable plate. Under it there is a place you can hook a host to lift it.

Once it is out note the coolant tank in on the top corner near the switches. The corner top screw and one each way from it are different lengths than all the others holding the top on. Make sure you ONLY use those in that position so you don't puncture the coolant tank.

Remove the top first then the sides and back. Looks like a pile of junk when you take everything off but it is not hard.

While you have it out, change the belt on the fan. There are four rubber hoses that you should consider changing now also just for good measure.

Dutch Star Don · 05-28-2012, 09:34 PM

Moxy......I'll just throw this out there. Awhile back I changed the coolant on mine and couldn't get it to bleed and stop shutting down from overheat. I panicked and pulled the shroud on mine. Surprisingly, I was able to access most of the shroud bolts from behind the generator. I crawled under the coach and sat up between the front axle and the generator and was able to disassemble quite a bit of the shroud.

Moxy · 05-29-2012, 05:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rex

Moxy I will describe what was needed on my 01 Diplomat. FIRST thing you need to do is sprat the four mounting bolts with PB Blaster so they come loose rather than breaking off. Do that several times over a couple of days. It will save you lots of trouble.

Next remove the drop down door in front of the generator. Disconnect the wiring on the front passenger side of the generator.

Disconnect the ground - and then the battery cables on the back of the unit.

Now get two clamps and clamp off the two fuel lines, one is fuel feed and the other fuel return. Make sure you mark them. You will still get a little fuel out when you disconnect them.

Remove the four mounting bolts.

Now you will need a motor host or some type of lifting device that has wheels on it. You have to pull the generator forward so it can be lifted. It weighs around 400 lbs. If you have a lift that will slip under the front that is good. if not, look in the top center and you should find a removable plate. Under it there is a place you can hook a host to lift it.

Once it is out note the coolant tank in on the top corner near the switches. The corner top screw and one each way from it are different lengths than all the others holding the top on. Make sure you ONLY use those in that position so you don't puncture the coolant tank.

Remove the top first then the sides and back. Looks like a pile of junk when you take everything off but it is not hard.

While you have it out, change the belt on the fan. There are four rubber hoses that you should consider changing now also just for good measure.

Thanks,will keep this with me suring construction.

Moxy · 05-29-2012, 05:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diplomat Don

Moxy......I'll just throw this out there. Awhile back I changed the coolant on mine and couldn't get it to bleed and stop shutting down from overheat. I panicked and pulled the shroud on mine. Surprisingly, I was able to access most of the shroud bolts from behind the generator. I crawled under the coach and sat up between the front axle and the generator and was able to disassemble quite a bit of the shroud.

thanks, Ill have a look befiore removing generator.