GFI breaker will not reset

[Dunbarthedog]

Hi All,
Tonight my kitchen GFI breaker in the 110 panel went off and will not reset. Other GFI breakers reset fine and test fine but the kitchen breaker will not. Does anyone have a source for these breakers that are specific to motorhomes or are the standard 'household' breakers of a particular dimension?

The plugs affected do not have a GFI reset button.

Thanks for any advice or direction to purchase a replacement GFI breaker. My coach is a 2004 Monaco Signature.

Bruce

[96 Wideglide]

Check and see if either of the breakers on the inverter are tripped. If so, reset them, then try resetting the GFCI.

[davendeb]

Make sure nothing is plugged in to any outlets that may be on that line. Then see if it'll reset.

[Ljwt330]

Check breakers and outlets as suggested. The gfi in the main panel may be bad as well. Typically, it will be the same type as used in a home and can be easily purchased. This link is to a similar problem with the gfi breaker and may help you, http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/break...ml#post5111221

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Dunbarthedog

Hi All,
Tonight my kitchen GFI breaker in the 110 panel went off and will not reset. Other GFI breakers reset fine and test fine but the kitchen breaker will not. Does anyone have a source for these breakers that are specific to motorhomes or are the standard 'household' breakers of a particular dimension?

The plugs affected do not have a GFI reset button.

Thanks for any advice or direction to purchase a replacement GFI breaker. My coach is a 2004 Monaco Signature.

Bruce

I'm going to assume you are talking about a GFI breaker with a yellow button on it. Did you forcefully turn the breaker off then turn it back on?

Do you have a split buss panel? Is there power on the buss bar in the panel?
The breakers are standard fair, not RV specific. GFI breakers need power to reset.

[firedoc]

Originally Posted by Dunbarthedog

Hi All,

Tonight my kitchen GFI breaker in the 110 panel went off and will not reset. Other GFI breakers reset fine and test fine but the kitchen breaker will not. Does anyone have a source for these breakers that are specific to motorhomes or are the standard 'household' breakers of a particular dimension?



The plugs affected do not have a GFI reset button.



Thanks for any advice or direction to purchase a replacement GFI breaker. My coach is a 2004 Monaco Signature.



Bruce

If you are talking about a standard GFI receptacle then make sure there is power coming into the receptacle. A GFI will not reset without power.

[vito.a]

Your breaker box uses Square D QO type breakers. Home Depot carries some sizes.
https://www.homedepot.com/s/square%2...reakers?NCNI-5

I've found others on eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SQUARE-D-QO...9d0d87c02cc2c3

I reconfigured our breaker box for the new hybrid inverter with some new breakers. Let me know if you need any more info?

[cavie]

GFI outlets are different then GFI breakers. They use a standard breaker in the panel then the first thing in line is a GFI outlet. The outlet must have power to reset. The outlet will control 4 or 5 other standard outlets down stream. You may have 2 GFI circuits.

Home Depot/Lowes will have ANY size/type breaker needed for Residential and RV use.

[Dunbarthedog]

Thanks everyone for the information and advice. Here is what I know this morning.

-Power from the pedestal is good at 240
-all breakers work and everything is normal while on inverter only.
-at the two breaker panels and the main 50 amp breaker in particular there is only 120.
-the loss of one leg is happening between my 50 amp plug and the breaker boxes in the washroom.

I am now waiting to have an RV Tech come and visit but if you have any fresh ideas please let me know.

Cheers,

Bruce

[Ljwt330]

Originally Posted by Dunbarthedog

Thanks everyone for the information and advice. Here is what I know this morning.

-Power from the pedestal is good at 240
-all breakers work and everything is normal while on inverter only.
-at the two breaker panels and the main 50 amp breaker in particular there is only 120.
-the loss of one leg is happening between my 50 amp plug and the breaker boxes in the washroom.

I am now waiting to have an RV Tech come and visit but if you have any fresh ideas please let me know.

Cheers,

Bruce

Do you have both lines when on generator power ( I don't interpret your post as confirming power on generator, only on inverter)? If not, check the output line from the Transfer Switch for loose/disconnected wire.

If you do have both lines when on generator, check the voltage at the Transfer Switch input for shore. If all connections in the TS are good and solid, you should have 120vac at both L1 and L2. If not, there is a problem with your cord or cord reel. If you have a cord reel, check the voltage there for L1 and L2 at the jumper to the TS and at the end connection of the cord itself. If still no 120vac on both lines, that leaves only the plug on the cord.

[Solo_RV_Guy]

Originally Posted by Dunbarthedog

Thanks everyone for the information and advice. Here is what I know this morning.

-Power from the pedestal is good at 240
-all breakers work and everything is normal while on inverter only.
-at the two breaker panels and the main 50 amp breaker in particular there is only 120.
-the loss of one leg is happening between my 50 amp plug and the breaker boxes in the washroom.

I am now waiting to have an RV Tech come and visit but if you have any fresh ideas please let me know.

Cheers,

Bruce

Hi Bruce-


Does *everything* work if running the generator?


When on shore power, are the non-working outlets part of you inverter circuit?


Two possibilities - your inverter "pass through" relay has failed, or the automatic transfer switch is failing.

[Dunbarthedog]

Thanks everyone for your insight and advice. When running the generator or inverter everything worked so I checked the transfer switch and sure enough the shore leads had melted tips. It looks like the wires were too short to be well connected and the brad had not been on tightly enough and had not been wrapped as well as the other connections. I suspect years of movement caused the connection to fail.

I am going to clean-up the wires and make the connection better and see if I get two legs of power. If not, what should I look for to tell me the transfer switch needs replacing or the fact that shore may not work is indication enough? Visually, the switch box contents all look good, clean and all other connections are good.

Thanks for your help, it is a learning curve everyday.

Bruce

[Ljwt330]

Originally Posted by Dunbarthedog

Thanks everyone for your insight and advice. When running the generator or inverter everything worked so I checked the transfer switch and sure enough the shore leads had melted tips. It looks like the wires were too short to be well connected and the brad had not been on tightly enough and had not been wrapped as well as the other connections. I suspect years of movement caused the connection to fail.

I am going to clean-up the wires and make the connection better and see if I get two legs of power. If not, what should I look for to tell me the transfer switch needs replacing or the fact that shore may not work is indication enough? Visually, the switch box contents all look good, clean and all other connections are good.

Thanks for your help, it is a learning curve everyday.

Bruce

Take one step at a time. It looks like you may have found the problem because poor connections can lead to overheating and melting of wires, and that, in turn, can lead to the exact problem you are facing--loss of one line of power.


Once you have cleaned everything up and made solid connections, report back on the results. If you suspect the original wires were too short, lengthen them and be sure there is no "pull" at the connection.


IMO, there is no need to anticipate further problems. However, if power to both lines is not restored after repairing the connection at the TS, follow the steps in the last paragraph of my last post.

[vito.a]

An experienced RV Tech told me to regularly check the connections inside the transfer switch.

Our 2004 Signature has an ESCO ES50-65N Power transfer switch. It can get noisy at times and I asked Esco about it. He said some humming is normal. You can blow any debris out and use some contact cleaner (Deoxit) on it. Also, it should be exercised about once a month when you run the generator.
If you replace it, they have a new silent design, ESCO Power transfer switch ES50-65N.

Hope you get it straight.