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allen1947 · 07-21-2015, 02:06 PM

Anyone have issues with these two models front black water tank dump valve? I have had for several years but after a lot of patience and aggravation I repaired the valve by some careful munipulation with silicone spray and and old motorcycle trick using a can of dry slide (very light oil mixed with graphite). Most of the problem was caused by a poor design. This front waste tank (and one at rear toilet) has 72 inch cable than enters the dump valve from opposite side of the valve. I contacted Monaco at the Oregon facility and a young dud by the name of Mark sent me an pdf file e-mailed then I noticed the original design had the valve pointing toward the water bay panel with a straight rod and no cable which is the most obvious way it should have been designed. All is well now but it took some time. Oemys-performance site has some excellent ideas concerning Workhorse powered rigs. I also bought the speed-bleeders from them and made the bleeding job so much easier. A great cleaning idea for holding tanks works great. I will try to load some pictures of the area effected later.

Kst8catfan · 07-21-2015, 06:22 PM

I, too, have a 36DBD. And I have the same black tank valve issues. I just haven't taken the time to fix it yet. It gets really messy at dumping time and when I have to remove the cap to install the drain hose. One reason I haven't attempted to change the valves yet is because the power transfer switch was mounted directly beside the rear black valve and I'll have to move it out of the way before I can get to the flange bolts. I'm not looking forward to moving electrical items to fix a stinky problem.
For being a relatively easy fix, I'm frustrated.

Kris

allen1947 · 08-07-2015, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kst8catfan

I, too, have a 36DBD. And I have the same black tank valve issues. I just haven't taken the time to fix it yet. It gets really messy at dumping time and when I have to remove the cap to install the drain hose. One reason I haven't attempted to change the valves yet is because the power transfer switch was mounted directly beside the rear black valve and I'll have to move it out of the way before I can get to the flange bolts. I'm not looking forward to moving electrical items to fix a stinky problem.
For being a relatively easy fix, I'm frustrated.

Kris

I assume your problem is with the rear black water tank where the slide valve is behind the shore power transfer box is located? My problem is the front black water slide valve located behind the water station incoming is located. This area is accessible after removing the panel by removing the overhead and the side screws. Two things you could try before taking anything apart. 1. Get a tube of silicone grease and apply it the 1/4 inch shaft that actually is connected by the cable and physically pull out and push in several times and see if it doesn't free up. 2. There is a product made for holding tanks which has coconut oil in it and does seem to work it lubricants the inner workings of the valve (slide). Also you can get some excellent ideas and tank cleaning formula consisting of cheap dishwasher power and Calgon water softener from Oemy's-Performance.com. Hope this helps, it did for me. "INFO IS THE BEST SOLUTION TO A PROBLEM"

Kst8catfan · 08-10-2015, 06:27 AM

I have problems with both valves. On the back tank, I'm able to see that there is a part of the plastic that holds the cable sleeve secure that has broken. I'm sure this happened when the former owners had the valve stick and they tried to force it closed. I'll have to replace the back valve completely.
The front valve has started to do the same thing. I assume there's something keeping the valve from closing fully but it's been that way for so long, I guess I should pull they valve apart to repair or replace it.
At that time I'll try your idea of a "lubrication" additive to see if that prevents it from happening again.
I hate pulling to the dump station knowing there's about a quart of "YUCK" waiting to splash out when I pull the cap off.

allen1947 · 08-11-2015, 05:57 AM

I would like to recommend something you can do to help with the problem. Amazon and Camping World sell a twist own stand alone slide valve made by Valtera for around $20.00 plus dollars, this would be a temporary solution. I would also recommend you purchase a clear extension and use every time you dump so you know for sure your tank is clean and the water coming by clear extension is clear. The clear extension comes in 7 inch and 10 inch models and available from same sources. When first began having the problem with the front valve I though it was maybe toilet paper caught in the bottom of the valve but not so, after I got the valve out and cleaned it and disinfecting I noticed how hard it was without the cable hooked up. It is a lubrication problem use its best to use a silicone grease on the internal slide and on the shaft that enters the valve body. If you will work the valve slide back and forth you will notice the improvement. Go to Oemys-Performance web site and follow his recommendations on cleaning your black water tank, it works great. Anyway I truly hope this helps and when you decide to tear into the front tank valve I do have so ideas about best way to approach it since I've already done this. Best of luck and patience. I almost forgot one other thing, there is a product made to use in your holding tank that has coconut oil in it and this will help lubricate the internal part of the valve.