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Old 07-31-2017, 11:26 AM   #1
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Help! '06 Beaver ignition switch component failure

I have an '06 Beaver that has developed an intermittent total shut down just like someone turned off the ignition switch. It acts like a relay is overloading and dropping connection. Does anyone know if the circuits powered by the ignition switch are powered directly through the switch, or are they powered through a remote relay that is powered through the switch? I'm not sure where to start to diagnose the problem. If the circuits are powered directly through the switch, then I have a failing switch. If it is a remote relay, then I probably have a failing relay. Can anyone give me guidance and direction? If it is a remote relay, does anyone know where it might be located? Thanks!

Richard
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Old 07-31-2017, 11:36 AM   #2
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On my 2000 Beaver it is a GM ignition. Do you have multiple keys hanging on the key ring with ignition on? Remember the problem GM, Saturn, had with the extra weight of keys on the switch damaging the switch and cutting TOTAL power to the engine. After that story I have cut down to just the Ignition key to cut down on the possible damage to the switch as per GM's diagnosis of the problem. I would be looking at the ignition switch. jmho
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Old 07-31-2017, 11:46 AM   #3
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Best to go over to the Beaver Ambassador Club (BAC) forum and ask the experts there.

Good luck!
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Old 07-31-2017, 12:15 PM   #4
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You should have a relay in your run bay under the driver seat (outside.) The only way I know to describe it is that is pretty big and looks like the starter relay that old fords used to have under the hood. Two large 12 VDC connections, one on each side and two smaller control connections.
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Old 07-31-2017, 03:13 PM   #5
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Just had the same problem with my Monaco Exec, it started with occasional failure, took me awhile but finally caught it in fail mode, as gemert said you should have two solenoids in exterior electrical bay under driver window, I took my 12V light tester, leaving ignition on, checked voltage across coil, then checked across battery cable contacts, I had power at coil but not across battery terminals, solenoid was not pulling in. Good chance this is your problem.

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Old 07-31-2017, 05:17 PM   #6
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Thanks

Thanks Outbound and gemert. I think you have identified the culprit. I have removed the little silver relay/solenoid. However, there are no identifiable part #'s on it. I assume it is a continuous duty solenoid, but I have no idea what amp rating is required. Does anyone have a part # I can chase down. Again, many thanks.

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Old 07-31-2017, 09:05 PM   #7
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I replaced mine with a 80 amp continuous duty, Napa auto parts had them in stock, I also bought an extra since my coach has (4), to date I have replaced 3 of the four. My coach has 2 in front electrical bay and 2 in engine panel.
Good Luck

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Old 07-31-2017, 10:08 PM   #8
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Hexnut,

We had same problem last year. Our coach has two of these in the front run box under the driver's feet: White Rogers 70-111224-5. Any auto parts store can get them or cross reference them. They are just continuosu duty solenoids.

BTW, as someone pointed out, the ignition switch is a pretty cheap GM part. In our coach it is p/n 12356033.

NOTE: the GM OEM part no longer works in our coach. Their Chinese supplier stops the threads short of the base of the barrel making it impossible to tighten the switch in our dashboard. The O'Reilly Chinese-made switch that I used has the fully threaded barrel and is half the price of the OEM switch.

There is a video here somewher about how to change it using a pin. The switch is separte from the key tumbler assy.

Cheers,
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Old 08-01-2017, 03:11 PM   #9
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I don't have part numbers but I know that they make a solid state relay that will last a lot longer than the original. A little research should find it.
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Old 08-01-2017, 11:08 PM   #10
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I know you are going to think I am nuts but follow me here.

I too had this issue, left me stranded in some not so good spots with my 06 Beaver Monterrey. After looking everywhere for a solution to no avail I spoke to several other Beaver/Monaco owners and this is what I learned.

Monaco for some unbeknownst reason put a butt slice about 2' towards the front of the coach from the battery on the lead that goes directly to the transmission control on the driver control panel. Why it is not a one piece run I just cant figure out. That butt splice is known to corrode due to its location and when you do not get a good electrical connection to your controls everything shuts down just as you would if your key was turned off. As things sit cool down or whatever the connection improves and off you go again. Intermittent problem, how do you trace that? Impossible to find too.

50cent fix. Cut and clean the wire and replace the butt splice. Go figure

Try that 1st then if that is not the culprit continue on your search.

Good Luck.
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:51 PM   #11
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Hey guys, not sure if my problem is related but i believe i have an ignition switch or solenoid issue. This morning when trying to start my 99 dynasty the lights on the dash lit but no crank. I then pushed the house battery boost and still nothing. Then i started my genrator and then the motor cranked. Drove 350 miles today and stopped 3 times and it started two of the three normally but i had to start generator once.

Then later today i lost my temperatue gauge.

Any comments are greatly appreciated!
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