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Old 12-11-2017, 12:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windsorbill View Post
Are the lights that are not working 12 volt or 120 volt? You may have 2 separate issues going on.


120v
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Old 12-11-2017, 02:07 PM   #16
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HELP! Kitchen outlets (DS) and Outlets/Lights (PS) Don't Work

Some progress. For some reason today I reset the breaker at the back of the coach and the candelabra lights above the couch and the outlets underneath the kitchen all work now. However, the breaker will trip after about 15 minutes. No load changes or anything. I am just sitting here admiring my work and “bam!” It trips. Repeat and the same thing happens.
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Old 12-11-2017, 02:16 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by offtosleep View Post
Some progress. For some reason today I reset the breaker at the back of the coach and the candelabra lights above the couch and the outlets underneath the kitchen all work now. However, the breaker will trip after about 15 minutes. No load changes or anything. I am just sitting here admiring my work and “bam!” It trips. Repeat and the same thing happens.
Maybe the issue is with the lights. Are these standard 120V screw-in base? I would remove the bulbs and see if the breaker stays On. If that solves the problem try replacing the bulbs with LEDs. Also with the lights on try wiggling the light bulbs a little, if you can, to see if that causes breaker to trip.

I had a driveway light on the GFI circuit where the GFI outlet (feeding the light) was located in the garage and the light was about 150ft at the end of the driveway. It would trip occasionally. An electrician friend told me the use of incandescent bulbs in the light post and the long run was causing the GFI (a sensitive circuit) to trip so we moved the GFI outlet to the light post and I switched to LEDs and had no more false trips.
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Old 12-11-2017, 06:17 PM   #18
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While I wait for the LED bulbs that Mike (Country B) recommended, I started looking into a problem with the microwave. When running it off the inverter, it will work, then not. Never throws the breaker or anything, its almost like the inverter "forgets" about it and then goes back to "search" mode on the panel.

I captured a couple videos of it. Any ideas?




I also noted this "ticking" noise outside at the inverter. You'll have to turn the volume way up to hear it and be in a quiet room. The noise is best heard around the 9 second mark

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Old 12-13-2017, 07:44 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by offtosleep View Post
While I wait for the LED bulbs that Mike (Country B) recommended, I started looking into a problem with the microwave. When running it off the inverter, it will work, then not. Never throws the breaker or anything, its almost like the inverter "forgets" about it and then goes back to "search" mode on the panel.

I captured a couple videos of it. Any ideas?




I also noted this "ticking" noise outside at the inverter. You'll have to turn the volume way up to hear it and be in a quiet room. The noise is best heard around the 9 second mark

Just an update on the issue with the microwave. The pulsing is totally normal. The settings (search mode) in RC7 remote. The search mode can be adjusted to "search" for a certain wattage draw before the inverter comes online (similar to a traditional "power save" mode on other devices. The wattage was set too high, so the inverter wasn't sensing the small wattage draw that the microwave display was drawing. The ticking noise I videoed/reported is also normal.

Per the manual:
When in the search sense mode, the green power LED will blink and the inverter will make a ticking sound. At full output voltage, the green power LED will light steadily and the inverter will make a steady humming sound. When the inverter is used as an “uninterruptible” power supply the search sense mode function shouldbe defeated."
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Old 12-13-2017, 08:49 AM   #20
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Have you had a chance to remove all the light bulbs, and see if that stops the breaker form tripping?

If the light bulbs are all removed and the breaker still trips, then the LED bulbs won't help.
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Old 12-13-2017, 10:10 AM   #21
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Have you had a chance to remove all the light bulbs, and see if that stops the breaker form tripping?



If the light bulbs are all removed and the breaker still trips, then the LED bulbs won't help.


I did remove the bulbs and found one that was damaged where the glass epoxy separates the hot and neutral on the base. Didn't check it after that. I’ll try it this afternoon and report back.
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Old 12-29-2017, 10:34 PM   #22
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I did remove the bulbs and found one that was damaged where the glass epoxy separates the hot and neutral on the base. Didn't check it after that. I’ll try it this afternoon and report back.


The bulb fixed the circuit that had all those outlets on it.
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Old 12-30-2017, 04:25 PM   #23
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Are you referring to the GFCI breaker? If so yes. Curled wire (comes hard wired on these breakers) goes to the neutral Buss bar. The neutral wire from the circuit goes to the neutral Buss bar as well.
No! The neutral from the circuit goes to the breaker's white screw. The black from the circuit goes to the breaker's brass screw. The white wire from the breaker goes to the neutral bar.

Wired the way you have it will cause the breaker to fault trip constantly.
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Old 01-02-2018, 02:22 PM   #24
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No! The neutral from the circuit goes to the breaker's white screw. The black from the circuit goes to the breaker's brass screw. The white wire from the breaker goes to the neutral bar.

Wired the way you have it will cause the breaker to fault trip constantly.
Like nehog says.
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