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Old 09-29-2021, 05:44 AM   #15
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My Owners Manual (for 2005 Beaver PT) says towing from the front is oaky - but it is "recommended" to use a flatbed/lowboy. Towing from the Rear is not allowed (will overload the front axle). Also the ignition must be On and HWH system in Travel Mode.
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File Type: pdf Beaver Patriot - Towing Procedures.pdf (276.4 KB, 28 views)
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Old 09-29-2021, 07:55 AM   #16
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Hi Guys, Thanks for all the feed back. Its all very helpful. I was hoping to get more info on the square jack points coming down off the frame but I guess those are not meant for towing purposes. Thanks for all the comments. Peter in Maine.
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Old 09-29-2021, 11:14 AM   #17
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Speaking of towing by lifting the front end and not flat bed towing.....one post on another forum mentioned the tow truck operator didn’t remove the driveshaft but instead pulled the axles shafts out from the full floating axles. Remove the chrome rims, unbolting the flange and then re-capping the ends with a simple cap to prevent gear oil loss is a lot easier than pulling the drive shaft out. Transmission output shaft then doesn’t turn while towed. Safer, faster, no out of phase u-joints later on, no leakage, lost drive shaft.
My drive shaft bolts are the 12 point spline type, PITA to remove unles you have a 1/2” drive spline socket & a matching spline box wrench. Takes a lot of muscle to undo, not to mention crawling under the beast and also having to move the broken down beast a foot or so to rotate the shaft to access a bolt which is unaccessable in its current position. So...
Made two end caps out of 3/16” aluminum, made gaskets to match out of a common (cheap) gasket material to save my axle fluid from spilling out. I carry these in my tool box just in case. Plus a machinist’s hammer (big heavy head, short wood handle) to whack those axle shaft ends loose (tapered washers). Only down side, air parking brake isn’t effective. Gotta chock those rear wheels ASAP when not attached to the tow truck.
This applies to class A diesel pushers and any coach with full floating rear axles. Won’t work on 1/2 ton p/u trucks or cars. Learned this trick from an old grizzly (or was it greasy?) tow truck driver I frequently worked with over the road. Loved that guys wisdom.
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Old 09-29-2021, 11:42 AM   #18
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Monaco provided detailed owners manuals. They are much better than the normal automotive owners manual.
Section 2 is "Driving and Safety" and in this section is a chapter on "Towing" with detailed towing procedures. It discusses towing by lifting the front axle, caging the brakes, airing up and operating the Travel mode, and disconnecting the drive shaft. It also discusses loading on a lowboy trailer.

You can download a soft copy of your owners manual. These make it very easy to perform searches.
Download Monaco owner’s manuals:
https://www.monacocoach.com/rv-owners-manuals
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Old 09-29-2021, 12:23 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterdube View Post
Hello, I have always wondered which hitch points a tow truck driver would use when hauling my Windsor? Do you use a lift under the front wheels or those two square tubes that go up to the frame or a landall flat bed. Hope I never have to find out BUT it would be nice to know in advance how to have it done. Hope someone can fill me in. Peter in Maine
when we had our TCU failure we had her taken to a repair shop on a flat bed. Not a good idea to do other wise.
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Old 09-30-2021, 01:54 PM   #20
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Per my coach manual.

States use low boy trailer or as seen here lift from the front axle and not the front tires.

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