Speaking of towing by lifting the front end and not flat bed towing.....one post on another forum mentioned the tow truck operator didn’t remove the driveshaft but instead pulled the axles shafts out from the full floating axles. Remove the chrome rims, unbolting the flange and then re-capping the ends with a simple cap to prevent gear oil loss is a lot easier than pulling the drive shaft out. Transmission output shaft then doesn’t turn while towed. Safer, faster, no out of phase u-joints later on, no leakage, lost drive shaft.
My drive shaft bolts are the 12 point spline type, PITA to remove unles you have a 1/2” drive spline socket & a matching spline box wrench. Takes a lot of muscle to undo, not to mention crawling under the beast and also having to move the broken down beast a foot or so to rotate the shaft to access a bolt which is unaccessable in its current position. So...
Made two end caps out of 3/16” aluminum, made gaskets to match out of a common (cheap) gasket material to save my axle fluid from spilling out. I carry these in my tool box just in case. Plus a machinist’s hammer (big heavy head, short wood handle) to whack those axle shaft ends loose (tapered washers). Only down side, air parking brake isn’t effective. Gotta chock those rear wheels ASAP when not attached to the tow truck.
This applies to class A diesel pushers and any coach with full floating rear axles. Won’t work on 1/2 ton p/u trucks or cars. Learned this trick from an old grizzly (or was it greasy?) tow truck driver I frequently worked with over the road. Loved that guys wisdom.