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Old 08-30-2021, 12:54 PM   #1
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How to pull out the refrigerator

I have a 1997 Monaco the original frig is not working. said it take out the existing frig, turn it upside down, bang it around to lose up the stuff inside?
Okay how do you get the darn thing out in the first place, no YouTube on that.. Otherwise it's 4k to replace and still would need to remove it. I find i need to learn to make some repairs myself, which if fine. But this one has me stumped.
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Old 08-30-2021, 01:15 PM   #2
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Might be good to inspect it 1st.. do some trouble shooting 1st.. that old.. turning it over and banging it is long shot.. most likely not worth time and effort. And would not last.. Have you checked for leaks ? Checked for power? What have you done and what makes you believe to can pull, turn over, and drop a 25yrs old refrigerator and get it working ? Good luck let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you
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Old 08-30-2021, 02:04 PM   #3
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The - turn it over shake it trick is suggested because if a cooling unit was overheated too many times the rust inhibitor - sodium chromate - is "cooked" into crystals that can plug a small tube inside the unit. The rolling upside down trick "might" dislodge the crystals getting the failing unit to work until it plugs again. A cooling unit in this condition is pretty much done for. Do some trouble shooting first. If it doesn't cool on either AC or propane, it could be shot especially if you smell ammonia or see green/yellowish stains or crust on the coils in the back.

Do the controls work? Is the burner flame nice and strong with a blue color?

You can replace the cooling unit yourself for half the price of a new fridge - IF you are handy.

There should be plastic trim around the edge of the frame and behind the trim, some screws. There may be a couple screws through the base in the back behind the lower vent cover.

Depending on the size of the refer, they can be quite heavy. The other problem will be getting it through the door. When I replaced my refrigerator, I had to remove the doors AND the cooling unit to get it out the door. Some people remove a window to get the old one out and the new one in. If you are going to replace the cooling unit yourself, you might end up having to do the work inside the coach.

If the cooling unit is shot, it's not user repairable. It IS user replaceable, if you are handy.
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Old 08-30-2021, 02:17 PM   #4
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Brand/Model of fridge would be help to us responding and then to you

25 yr old fridge.....even if you removed, flipped-flopped it, rolled it around, stood it up side down etc you would still have a 25 yr fridge dying

As mentioned...sodium chromate crystalizes/plates out
It does NOT dissolve and go back into solution

Getting it out.......remove doors/might have to remove cooling unit and take it out thru entry door in pieces.
Getting NEW one back in........if it will not go thru entry door with doors removed..........Windshield

Brand/Model IF you want to do some troubleshooting
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Old 08-30-2021, 02:27 PM   #5
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First thing I'd check is to see if the recall was done on it. If it was there would be a small black box clipped to the back with wires run to the circuit board on the fridge. The purpose of the box is to monitor the temperature in the burner exhaust and if it gets too high it shuts the unit down. There is a small red light on the black box that comes on if it has shut the fridge off.
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Old 08-30-2021, 09:16 PM   #6
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We replaced the cooling unit in our 2000 Dynasty with one from JC Refridgeration. Our fridge is a Norcold 1200. Our choice was a 120 volt cooling unit from JC Refridgeration. The cooling unit and replacement board came to about $1400. They also sell a 12 volt cooling unit and a 12volt/propane unit. We did all the work without taking the fridge outside of the coach. JC has some excellent videos on the replacement procedure. In addition they will provide help over the phone if needed. We are extremely happy with our unit. It keeps ice and ice cream rock hard regardless of outside temp. God Bless and good luck with your project. Ed
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Old 08-31-2021, 09:03 AM   #7
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Here is whats holding it in: sealant smeared over the base and the edge of the wall! the stuff is reinforced with fibers and hold the unit in place even if upside down!
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Old 08-31-2021, 09:57 AM   #8
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red light on

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
First thing I'd check is to see if the recall was done on it. If it was there would be a small black box clipped to the back with wires run to the circuit board on the fridge. The purpose of the box is to monitor the temperature in the burner exhaust and if it gets too high it shuts the unit down. There is a small red light on the black box that comes on if it has shut the fridge off.
That red light can be reset by placing a magnet over it, i've reset mine twice in the past 2years. once reset the light goes out
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Old 08-31-2021, 10:09 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
First thing I'd check is to see if the recall was done on it. If it was there would be a small black box clipped to the back with wires run to the circuit board on the fridge. The purpose of the box is to monitor the temperature in the burner exhaust and if it gets too high it shuts the unit down. There is a small red light on the black box that comes on if it has shut the fridge off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMN View Post
That red light can be reset by placing a magnet over it, i've reset mine twice in the past 2years. once reset the light goes out
GMN
IF...IF the OPs fridge is a Norcold (not Dometic) and was included in the Recall

OP didn't clarify anything about WHY it isn't working
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Old 08-31-2021, 11:22 AM   #10
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If you pull it.. expect to spend a few days repairing rotten wood.. and seal up with eternabond. Tape before putting back in.. also great time to spend a few days adding extra insulation.. look for kind that does no hold moisture.. and if in the future you plan to add solar or satellite .. and you feel that would be a good access for extra wires to run.. add 2in metal conduit in the back from top of vent to floor.. cost about 10 bucks.. you may never use it.. but if you ever need it.. it's already there.. just cap top so dose not make a place for water to run.. solar very popular and a lot of members here have Posted that running wires down back of refrigerator way to go.. good luck and keep us posted
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Old 08-31-2021, 12:57 PM   #11
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Update, im taking all this great info out to the rv. I didn't think shaking it was a fix. Don't know if it leaks, ill check that. It does turn on with propane but not the ac and does not cool with the propane, the coils will get hot. Will look next at replacing the cooling unit. This is the original Dometic Elete. Great when it worked. Thanks fur the help
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Old 08-31-2021, 06:43 PM   #12
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Wanted to clarify my post. JC Refridgeration has a 120 volt A/C compressor unit, a 120 volt A/C heater/propane unit and a 12 volt DC compressor unit. You might check with them to see if they have a replacement unit for your fridge. Good luck and God Bless on your project. Ed
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Old 09-04-2021, 10:36 PM   #13
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Spend some time in research on the one you have and what is available. Check weight( h ow much can you lift) how much space you have available, What exit can you use ( lots of times you must remove a window or even a windshield. do you have a helper ( a strong one , and a strong back) sounds simple to just pull it out. Don't get surprised.
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Old 09-07-2021, 01:35 PM   #14
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Full sine wave inverter

Double check to see if your new fridge will need a full sine wave inverter. I installed a Magnum with full sine wave.

Ill health prevented me from changing the fridge so I shall watch your posts with interest.
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