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Old 08-03-2021, 11:53 AM   #1
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How to remove old caulk from Beltline

I need to redo the caulk on my belt line, not sure what the original sealant was. What is the best way to remove the old sealant??? What type of cleaner should I use before applying new sealant

I have bought ProFlex RV clear to use but have to clean the old off first.
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Old 08-03-2021, 12:12 PM   #2
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Jim, I haven't done the belt-line, but I've removed dicor self leveling with Goof Off, a plastic putty knife and cotton cloth. It's pretty effective. I'd test it on an inconspicuous area first because I've never used it on clear-coat.


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Old 08-03-2021, 12:58 PM   #3
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I may have some of this, I think I tried to use it when I was removing the 3M mask on the front of my coach, didn't work good for that but I'll give it a shot on the belt line.



Thanks
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Old 08-03-2021, 01:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
I may have some of this, I think I tried to use it when I was removing the 3M mask on the front of my coach, didn't work good for that but I'll give it a shot on the belt line.



Thanks
Jim, I did my passenger side this year and some of the drivers side. It is a lot of work especially if it is silicone.
Some of the other unknown caulk pulled up pretty well. I bought a pack of plastic scrappers tools.
What ever degreaser, type product you use, test it and don't use too much as they can attack the "old" paint. acetone and denatured alcohol if you have silicone is what Talan recommends. I good quality A frame ladder is a must unless you have a man lift. Be careful and just make sure you fill the groove up well. don't sweat what it looks like so much you can't see up there anyway.
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Old 08-03-2021, 01:30 PM   #5
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Jim, I did my passenger side this year and some of the drivers side. It is a lot of work especially if it is silicone.
Some of the other unknown caulk pulled up pretty well. I bought a pack of plastic scrappers tools.
What ever degreaser, type product you use, test it and don't use too much as they can attack the "old" paint. acetone and denatured alcohol if you have silicone is what Talan recommends. I good quality A frame ladder is a must unless you have a man lift. Be careful and just make sure you fill the groove up well. don't sweat what it looks like so much you can't see up there anyway.



Thanks.

I built a new garage last year and have a 16' wide parking area for the DP. I also have a set of scaffolding with rollers so access is pretty good. I also built a shop in side the garage and roof area allows for easy access to the top of the DP. Comes in handy when working on the coach.



I'll check on getting some plastic scrapers. I thought I had some but can't seem to find them so to big box store I go
I've used acetone and denatured alcohol before and may have some.



Now it's just putting in some sweat equity to get the job done.
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Old 08-03-2021, 02:23 PM   #6
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Jim-

Here is a link to a set of scrapers that folks from Talin Manufacturing recommended to me. In this case, Harbor Freight is the seller.
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Old 08-03-2021, 02:42 PM   #7
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Hi Jim, as Mark mentioned those scrapers from Harbor Freight work good! Those are what I have been using to get the 3M mask off my 01 Windsor. Just have 2 small sections to go and then I am done what that job and will NEVER do that again! The nice big handle is great and not hard on your hands!
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Old 08-03-2021, 02:50 PM   #8
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Thanks for the link to the scrapers, sounds like these are the way to go.
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Old 08-06-2021, 09:47 AM   #9
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Morning James, hey when I did mine I used plastic razor blades and 3M General purpose Adhesive cleaner PN-08984 found it all on Amazon, I have used that cleaner for years on MANY different projects with no problems ... Cept use it with lots of air circulating (aka FAN) the fumes makes ya woosy after long term use
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Old 08-06-2021, 09:53 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Kramer View Post
Be careful and just make sure you fill the groove up well. don't sweat what it looks like so much you can't see up there anyway.
I always considered the belt line just above the basement doors
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Old 08-06-2021, 10:25 AM   #11
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I guess it depends on the construction of the coach. In my case the entire side was built as a unit with the fiberglass attached. The top and caps are then added, with the fiberglass overlapping the sides. The beltline is then added to seal the seam and provide a finished look.

I found a leak the week before while on a trip. I had gone through a couple years ago and reapplied the GeoFlexRV caulk but somehow there was a leak.

I actually removed the beltline from my rear window back all the way around the bottom. I used the plastic scrapers recommended above, worked like a charm and was able to use acetone to get the reminants of caulk off.


It looks like the problem area was where the rear cap and roof met and the seam had fiberglass laid across it. This resulted in a slight hump and this appears to be where the water came in. Everything forward of this is good and there is no sign of water damage under the aluminum molding.

I am repairing an area of delamination now, don't know how it will turn out but I will use epoxy. I'm going to do the lower 3 ft first. I'll insert the epoxy from the dryer vent hole and window. I've made a long funnel system using 1/4" copper tubing and a plastic bottle. I will pour it in higher and let it flow. My concern is the epoxy flowing to places I don't want it to, I've used plastic and tape to hopefully protect the side & paint. I've caulked areas below around the rear electrical bay, there was a pretty large gap there. I've pulled the lower beltline back tight to hopefully seal the lower seam. I'll do a small test to make sure it seals and then do a larger injection if everything is OK.

I took a piece of smooth 1/2 plywood and made a large form ~4X5' the same shape as the side with the curve etc. I then rigged up additional 2X6 &10" boards that I will clamp/press to the side to push in while the epoxy cures. I can use clamps at the window and dryer vent and can get additional force by putting boards across to a wall I am parked close to.

If I get the lower part done I'll do about the same with the upper portion except will use large syringes and tubing to push the epoxy up from the window and dryer vent and let it run down to the lower area. It will be messy so I have everything taped with plastic over it.



I've worked with epoxy before on wood and it always seems to find an escape route, no matter how much sealing and taping you do.
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Old 08-06-2021, 12:15 PM   #12
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Jim,

You're probably aware of these, but I thought I'd mention.

Lowes/HD carries these types of epoxies in a cartridge. This particular one uses a fairly expensive dispenser gun. I know they have the 2 part epoxy's that use a traditional painters caulking gun, but not sure if they have them to glue materials that would be inside a coach wall.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/PC-Products...sive/999994290

I like them because they come with a long straw and you can put the product where you want it.
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Old 08-06-2021, 01:29 PM   #13
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I already had some West System Epoxy 105 & 205 hardener.

The first part of the repair will be easier as I can let gravity carry the epoxy to the void.

I made 2 ~4' funnels out of 1/4 copper tubing and soda bottles, see picture. I pushed the tubing into the area I wanted to fix and poured about 4-5 oz of epoxy into each of the funnels and it slowly spread into the voids. Pulled the funnels out and then put pressure on the large plate pushing against the side of the RV, see picture.

As I suspected, I did have a leak of epoxy in a couple places. I doubt there is anything that I can do to prevent that but it just dripped to the cardboard I laid under the coach.

The hardener I am using is for fast setting so I will have to limit the amount of area I am working with but not a big deal the way I have the system set up.

Tomorrow, now that I know where I have a potential to leak I'll make sure to get some epoxy down that side so that when I press the form it will set up and seal this area. I'm taking this slow making sure not to get any epoxy on the sides of the motor home.
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Old 08-10-2021, 04:48 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
I already had some West System Epoxy 105 & 205 hardener.

The first part of the repair will be easier as I can let gravity carry the epoxy to the void.

I made 2 ~4' funnels out of 1/4 copper tubing and soda bottles, see picture. I pushed the tubing into the area I wanted to fix and poured about 4-5 oz of epoxy into each of the funnels and it slowly spread into the voids. Pulled the funnels out and then put pressure on the large plate pushing against the side of the RV, see picture.

As I suspected, I did have a leak of epoxy in a couple places. I doubt there is anything that I can do to prevent that but it just dripped to the cardboard I laid under the coach.

The hardener I am using is for fast setting so I will have to limit the amount of area I am working with but not a big deal the way I have the system set up.

Tomorrow, now that I know where I have a potential to leak I'll make sure to get some epoxy down that side so that when I press the form it will set up and seal this area. I'm taking this slow making sure not to get any epoxy on the sides of the motor home.
Wow Jim thatís quite a project youíve got going. Please keep us appraised of your progress.

Iíve merely added ProFlex to my upper belt line, rather than remove the old and add new caulk. I will need to address the lower belt line as you are doing.

The problem area on my coach are the slide outs. The caulk that seals the 4Ē frame that runs along the edge of the slide outs has degraded and water is just beginning to pop the paint along the edge. I need to remove the old caulk, apply touch up paint, and reseal with ProFlex.
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