Hydraulic Fan Control

[bigjim8499]

How about some info on the new part number.It might save someone the same issue.
jim E

[Old Scout]

Sounds like the best solution to me. Briefly looked into the Source Engineering valve but was a bit concerned about the need to cut a hole and weld a flange. Having chased this issue with my older Alpine coach [OEM wax valve controller], I had two other questions: 1- does the S/E after-market wax valve provide for gradual fan speed control vs an abrupt on/off starts/stops? And 2- most electronic controllers integrate the dash A/C's need for condenser cooling [assumes a stacked radiator config.] Does the S/E solution have a dash A/C interface? Your rig may have a separate condenser with electric fans, so this might not be an issue for you.

[Happycarz]

Laird.
Does your controller look like the one below?




2008 Monaco Camelot 40' PDQ

[steve11669]

Originally Posted by waco kid

I had the same issue with my coach,twice. A few years ago I installed the Source Engineering wax valve. Easy install and the coach runs a lot cooler.....Bruce

I did the same thing last year and it's working good, holding the temp and fairly constant temp. Much better than the electronic controller.

I went to the Source office in Eugene to buy it and took my elbow tube which I traded for a tube with the bung welded in already. I installed the kit myself, fairly easy.

Someone said above in a post that this one does not vary the fan speed but I think it does. The fan is off until some engine warmkng and I think it varies the fan as needed. Ask the guy at Source to confirm that.

There would most likely be people at Quartzsite to install it if you took the kit there.

[Laird C]

I am happy to send a picture of my control valve can someone tell me how to post a picture? I will also post the part number on my next post. The new one looks slightly different round instead of rectangular on the outside but has 2 wire connections like the old one. And regarding the fan speed the mechanic said the electronic fix varies the speed and picks up on the need to increase earlier than the wax valve type would. For example if I use the Ac or the turbo starts to get hotter. Don't know if that is right or not.
The sauer danfoss part Monaco was selling appeared to be the complete unit coil valve and block combined but was 3 or 4 wires. Cummins could only find the coil for me not the whole shebang but it was the coil that had the short and was causing all the trouble.
From what I have read since all this began the wax valves are probably totally fine since they have been around a long time. This newer electronic method was intended to improve on the old system but now comes with its own issues and complications. I didn't mention this in the beginning but this problem all started a year ago while driving in the rain in Idaho. We were stranded and had to be towed to Cummins in Spokane. They got us going then but didn't solve the problem because as soon as it dried up it worked. Living in California we might have gone forever never knowing since we rarely see rain. It wasn't until we were on the east side of Canada and the US did it finally show itself again, first in the rain but eventually all the time. I was really just lucky to think of unplugging this control unit so we could continue driving. It was a comment Monaco Tech made to me a year ago that stuck with me that made me even try it.

[Laird C]

Happy carz if you private email me I can send you a pictures.

[Laird C]

The old Vickers part # on the solenoid only was 02-178070
The new Eaton # is 300 AA00089A
It was this new Eaton # that was such a pain to find. Once we found someone that put some effort in we found it locally in Harrisburg.
I also had tracked it to a company in North Carolina (wholesale place) and they had 18 in inventory so it must have multiple uses.
What I never got to was a number on the block where the hoses connect. It had a place for a number but I'm guessing it was a label and the label was gone. There is a third piece that the solenoid attaches to that fits into the block that probably allows the hydraulic fluid to flow or not flow. I have
no idea it's number either. Heaven help me if I need either of these two items!!

[dons2346]

"I had two other questions: 1- does the S/E after-market wax valve provide for gradual fan speed control vs an abrupt on/off starts/stops? And 2- most electronic controllers integrate the dash A/C's need for condenser cooling [assumes a stacked radiator config.] Does the S/E solution have a dash A/C interface?"

Yes it does provide gradual speed changes in the fan. There is a small orifice installed so that when you start the motor with the AC on, the fan will run at medium speed to keep head pressure down during warmup and until more air is moving across the radiator.

I had mine installed in June by Source Engineering and have driven it 7,000 since then. The trip back east was in high ambient temps mostly running 90+ for the whole trip. Motor pretty much maintained 180 except when climbing some good grades and then it would climb up to 197, which was the highest temp I saw on the trip.

Kinds hard to get a good read on fuel mileage differences as you are going down hill headed east and up hill headed west. I would say that there is probably 1/10 MPG loss according to the Silverleaf

[walt2137]

Originally Posted by steve11669

I did the same thing last year and it's working good, holding the temp and fairly constant temp. Much better than the electronic controller.

I went to the Source office in Eugene to buy it and took my elbow tube which I traded for a tube with the bung welded in already. I installed the kit myself, fairly easy.

Someone said above in a post that this one does not vary the fan speed but I think it does. The fan is off until some engine warmkng and I think it varies the fan as needed. Ask the guy at Source to confirm that.

There would most likely be people at Quartzsite to install it if you took the kit there.

Steve you are right the wax valve does vary the speed as the coolant gets hotter the fan will speed up.

Here is a link for a new wax valve (not the kit) from England for I think it was under $300 for us guys that already have the Wax valve. This info was posted on this forum a couple yrs ago by one of our members.

http://www.whitehouseproductsltd.com...53/1/09857/210

[Happycarz]

Posting pictures for Laird of the Vickers/Eaton fan controller.








2008 Monaco Camelot 40' PDQ

[10Boomer]

Originally Posted by 2 Stroker

This week I have been in contact with Jim at Source Engineering about the wax valve and Comfort Control Valves. The wax valve is $695 and about 2hrs install. I don't have a problem yet but I know it will happen. Hope to have this done right after Thanksgiving.

2 stroker

2 Stroker I believe Jim charged 130 per hour for labor.


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[2 Stroker]

Originally Posted by 10Boomer

2 Stroker I believe Jim charged 130 per hour for labor.


Sent from my iPhone using iRV2 - 2008 Monaco Camelot 40 PDQ

Yes, I'm looking at $1400 + for the wax valve and the comfort ride valves all installed. Last few things to get for the money pit.

2 stroker

[10Boomer]

Originally Posted by 2 Stroker

Yes, I'm looking at $1400 + for the wax valve and the comfort ride valves all installed. Last few things to get for the money pit.

2 stroker

😂😬agree money pit or our new hobby right!


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[Happycarz]

And, it will be your hobby for a loooong time! I speak with experience.


2008 Monaco Camelot 40' PDQ