Community Forums

Monacoach · 02-17-2012, 10:23 PM

We have a lippert hydraulic 3 jack system. The rear jacks go up and down just fine as well as the living room hydraulic slide out room.
Problem is with the front jack that will not go down. The other day I had it go down but not all the way to the ground. It comes back up fine.
Today it will not budge. The hydraulic fluid is full and I can hear the motor when I depress the button for the front jack. There is an allen key slot on the jack.... anyone know what this is for? perhaps a manual operation of some kind?

rgreen45 · 02-18-2012, 06:00 AM

Can you get me a model number off your control pad?

Robi.1014 · 02-18-2012, 09:25 AM

Monacoach,

Let me offer some troubleshoot by ear thoughts....

If you've ever extended a jack to its full travel (fully out), you've probably heard the hydraulic drive-motor change its sound....every so slightly....called laboring. My pump motor sounds like it's speeding up slightly.

My thought is that your electrically-controlled hydraulic valve (located at the pump along with the other two rear-jack valves) is not opening to let the fluid flow to the front jack....thus the jack does not extend. I don't think the problem is at the jack itself.

My suggestion it to try to confirm this by listening to the pump motor as it labors against this valve that I believe is not opening. Compare the "laboring" sound to that of a rear-jack that you have fully extended (and thus the motor is laboring). If my suspicion is true, now it's time to get dirty and find out why the valve is not opening.

The fact that this valve opens reliably to allow the front jack to retract is encouraging. Look for an faulty electrical connection that is not passing the necessary current when you attempt to put the front jack down.

Monacoach · 02-18-2012, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Can you get me a model number off your control pad?

No can do. There is no number on the panel.

Monacoach · 02-18-2012, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Monacoach,

Let me offer some troubleshoot by ear thoughts....

If you've ever extended a jack to its full travel (fully out), you've probably heard the hydraulic drive-motor change its sound....every so slightly....called laboring. My pump motor sounds like it's speeding up slightly.

My thought is that your electrically-controlled hydraulic valve (located at the pump along with the other two rear-jack valves) is not opening to let the fluid flow to the front jack....thus the jack does not extend. I don't think the problem is at the jack itself.

My suggestion it to try to confirm this by listening to the pump motor as it labors against this valve that I believe is not opening. Compare the "laboring" sound to that of a rear-jack that you have fully extended (and thus the motor is laboring). If my suspicion is true, now it's time to get dirty and find out why the valve is not opening.

The fact that this valve opens reliably to allow the front jack to retract is encouraging. Look for an faulty electrical connection that is not passing the necessary current when you attempt to put the front jack down.
__________________
Robi, Dale, and "Duchess" (lap kitty)
2004 Monaco Diplomat
Tow: Either '69 El Camino or '01 Buick LeSabre

I think you are right on the money with your comments. The sound of the motor is definitely distinctively different then when the jacks are moving and you have given me encouragement in that it could be as simple as a disconnected wire. Time to get dirty and find the wire in question. My ears are wide open for any further troubleshooting tips.

thanks for the help

Robi.1014 · 02-18-2012, 02:48 PM

What's great for you is that 2 of 3 solenoids are working, thus the operable units will allow you to see the voltage arriving at them. Yes, it is a 12 volt DC voltage, but voltage line drops are what kills us ... making things work unpredictably.

So for taking measurements, find a good/clean ground for the negative multi-meter lead.

To take a voltage reading with the positive lead of the meter, try this tip: Get a sewing needle (or sewing pin) with which you can prick the wire's insulation. (Sewing needles don't bend as easily as sewing pins).

Using slip-joint pliers, push the needle thru the wire's insulation (thus it pierces the copper stranded wiring). Now attach the positive meter lead (hopefully with alligator clip on it) to the sewing pin.

Buford B · 02-18-2012, 07:44 PM

Lipperts website has Service Manuals available for download. You might find some direction there.

Monacoach · 02-19-2012, 07:37 AM

We will be home towards the end of this month... ( Home is cold)... so first warm stretch of weather I will start into the troubleshooting.....

thanks for the help

Monacoach · 03-08-2012, 10:24 AM

as to the electrical connections the manual suggests spraying with wd 40 which I did.... front jack still does not work...... nice day on Sunday so I will get in there and jiggle some wires while dw operates the control...... I have an appointment in May to have this looked at but would love to cancel it

Robi.1014 · 03-08-2012, 06:57 PM

In addition to WD-40 you mention and the volt meter (my previous post), use a small hammer and gently rap the solenoid-valve while DW is pressing the proper switch inside.

If the valve begins to work as a result of tapping it (stressing again: ever so gently) with the hammer, that's your indication that replacement of this solenoid-valve is called for.

Dutch Star Don · 03-08-2012, 10:24 PM

Switch the wire from one of the rear jacks to the front jack. This will let you know if the front jacksolenoid is working or there is an electrical issue.

Monacoach · 03-09-2012, 01:49 AM

Quote:

gently rap the solenoid-valve while DW is pressing the proper switch inside.

Is there a separate solenoid for the front jack or would one solenoid operate all jacks? if the latter, then the solenoid is ok as the rear jacks still work.

Quote:

Switch the wire from one of the rear jacks to the front jack

At this time I have no idea what each wires function is..... I will make sure all the connections are good in the hope that one of them is suspect.

Monacoach · 03-10-2012, 03:34 PM

Update.... rear jacks wont retract... I played around with the wiring.... sent the rear jacks down no problem..... they would not retract.... after a few tries the motor wont work.... guess I burned it our or maybe it drowned in fluid as there is leak.... was a small leak originally.... so now I'm stuck with jacks down .... will make it difficult to drive to repair shop... any suggestions.... heres a pic if I can figure this out.....

Click image for larger version

Name: hydraulic pump.jpg
Views: 469
Size: 455.2 KB
ID: 18707

bronk · 03-10-2012, 03:51 PM

I had a similar problem with my Lippert jacks; they would not work at all after leaking copious amounts of fluid. What happened is the fluid shorted out the motor and as a result, pump would not run at all. Lippert had to replace entire pump as a result. I think that there should be a override for the motor in order to get the jacks retracted in case of a failure as you are experiencing. Give Lippert a call on Monday, they are really great to deal with and will help you, I'm sure. This leaking issue has been ongoing with Lippert jacks for some time. My new pump has updated seals, etc. which should eliminate future problems.

Best of luck resolving this problem.

Bronk