I need HELP for an Electrical Problem

[tomd85208]

Hi Folks, So one day I had my engine running at an idle but not in gear, and I accidentally hit the "Battery Boost" button and the following happened instantly...

1- The A/C fan immediately stopped blowing air.
2- The power to the Jacks control panel went off, and never came back on.
3- The power to my electric mirrors stopped working, can't be adjusted.
4- The "Wait to Start" Light on the dash does not illuminate any more.

I'm interested to see if this may have happened to anyone else out there and what was needed to make the necessary repairs.

I have very little knowledge of auto electrical systems but thought it may only be a relay or something like that. I did manually check my circuit breaker box, as well as the fuses in the left front basement compartment, and no defective fuses.

Thank You For any Help you can give me!

[Robin_M]

Tom,

I don't think all that happened as a direct result of your momentarily hitting the battery boost button while the engine was running. In fact, your coach has an IRD relay in the front run bay that automatically closes that "battery boost" isolator relay under certain circumstances in order to allow the alternator to also charge the house batteries while underway.

My guess is that you suffered some sort of unrelated short anomaly that that did some damage to those components or associated relays. It should be easily repaired by a qualified dealer or shop. You may even get lucky and find that it was just some relays that got fried.

[RCCFleetwood]

Still sounds a lot like fuses to me... I have several locations on my rig that house fuses. It's a gasser, so probably much different, but all my engine fuses are in the engine compartment. This sounds like one of those fuses.

[tomd85208]

Thanks Rob, I'm having difficulty finding a repair shop with good reviews around here in Mesa AZ., I guess I'm gonna have to pick one that I trust the best and hope they know what their doing. I've been screwed over a few times with some local repair shops, that's why I'm so hesitant.

But Thank You for your advice! I've read a lot of your postings and I'm absolutely amazed at how much knowledge you have and what you've accomplished on your 07 Diplomat that you traded recently for that Beautiful New Coach of yours! I wish I had 10% of your knowledge, he he.

Many Thanks!

[tomd85208]

I forgot to mention 1 more thing that does not work either...

The screen for the rear camera does not come on for the camera or the turn signals or even the Aladdin Jr.

I was sure these all quit working right after I pressed that darn "Battery Boost" Button. I could be wrong but that's when I noticed all these things quit functioning, because I could not get the Jacks to operate, there was No Power to the control pad next to my seat! Strange stuff!

[SPA48]

I would start with that salesman switch over by the door!!!! if it off then Aladdin, radio and other switches won't work!!! you might go to the fuse box under drivers side up front and bang on that big relay that all the battery leads go to, between those two things can give you a headache!!!! Other than that check to see if your battery leads are not loose or corroded
wishing you the best

Steve

[YC1]

Go to the outside compartment below the driver. Below the large box with lots of fuses is a small panel with some large wires connected.

Do NOT tug or pull on things. Carefully take voltage measurements on those wires. You will see which ones should be hot.

Base on all of your issues including the AC fan which I assume you mean the dash AC fan you have lost power to a bank of circuits.

I am sure this is not a major problem but can be tricky to chase down without accidently fixing it and not knowing how you did it.

There are some chassis splices that have acted up on some RV's including mine. These can be a pain to find.

There is a ground post in that front run bay so you should have no issues getting voltage measurements.

It is possible you have sick engine batteries and when you hit the AUX start button the solenoid that connects the two banks of batteries fell offline and the low voltage issue happened.

That solenoid is a very common problem and can cause all kinds of weird problems. We can address that after you get some voltage measurements.

Do take time to check both battery bank voltages before you start anything.

I can probably talk you through the problem on the phone if you would like. Often playing "20 questions" will sort through things fast.

I have a 2008 SKQ Endeavor so ours should be clones.

[nodine]

Originally Posted by tomd85208

Hi Folks, So one day I had my engine running at an idle but not in gear, and I accidentally hit the "Battery Boost" button and the following happened instantly...

1- The A/C fan immediately stopped blowing air.
2- The power to the Jacks control panel went off, and never came back on.
3- The power to my electric mirrors stopped working, can't be adjusted.
4- The "Wait to Start" Light on the dash does not illuminate any more.

I'm interested to see if this may have happened to anyone else out there and what was needed to make the necessary repairs.

I have very little knowledge of auto electrical systems but thought it may only be a relay or something like that. I did manually check my circuit breaker box, as well as the fuses in the left front basement compartment, and no defective fuses.

Thank You For any Help you can give me!

On our 2006 Diplomat the front run bay fuse layout under the black cover lists the Jacks,Dash A/C, Mirror Heat, TV/Level Lock out, Mirror Motors, and side dock lights under IGN #1. There is a 87 type relay marked as Ignition Relay #1. I would start with that relay.

Bob

[wa8yxm]

If the coach is running, that button should have no effect on anything.

I can not imagine what happened short of shorted house batteries.

[RamiDav]

Tom

First thing I noticed was the items you listed as not working all seem to be
things that operate when the ignition switch is on .
You didn't mention if it will start now after this occurred .

I don't think you need a repairman yet , this may be real simple .
Listen to Myron and Bob they have coaches like yours and they are both
very knowledgeable .

Fix it your self and you will learn a lot and feel proud .

Ray

[Windecker]

My older Signature does this on occasion, it is the ignition relay in the forward run bay. It is rare but when it happens I can cycle the ignition switch on and off about 5 times and it will work again for the next 100 starts. I know, just replace it which I will..

Easy to test this relay which is likely about 2 inches in diameter, calendrical, maybe 3 inches tall, mounted with two bolts via tabs welded to the housing, silver in color two big terminals (one each opposing side normally but can be next to each other pointed out the end plate instead) and 1 or 2 small terminals which is the control circuit portion. With the ignition switch on, you should have power on both sides of the ignition relay in that bay(the larger of the posts and copper in color, likely about 5/16 diameter), ignition off, only one side or post should have 13 ish volts on it.

Sometimes those relays can just stick also, in that case, ignition on and give it a tap with screwdriver handle or whatever, just be VERY carful sticking anything metallic in there or you could get some unwanted fireworks.

If you can't figure out which one is the ignition relay, have someone cycle the ignition switch on and off while you place your fingers on the relays, the operational one will have an obvious thump in it. Don't touch the contactor posts though when you do this, even though it is DC (Direct Current) a collapsing relay can bite you. Not enough to kill you but it won't tickle.

If you have to change this relay I highly recommend you turn the battery disconnects off, check voltages in this area to be sure everything is powered down, then change it. The relay (if like most I have seen) should be a constant current relay available about anywhere like Napa, car parts store, camper parts store, boat supply ect. Extremely common and not specific to a camper or Monaco. Likely roughly $50.00. Here is a link to a Starter contactor, almost the same thing but not for constant duty: ECHLIN ST85 SOLENOID | eBay

Hope that helps at least some.
Windecker

Originally Posted by YC1

Go to the outside compartment below the driver. Below the large box with lots of fuses is a small panel with some large wires connected.

Do NOT tug or pull on things. Carefully take voltage measurements on those wires. You will see which ones should be hot.

Base on all of your issues including the AC fan which I assume you mean the dash AC fan you have lost power to a bank of circuits.

I am sure this is not a major problem but can be tricky to chase down without accidently fixing it and not knowing how you did it.

There are some chassis splices that have acted up on some RV's including mine. These can be a pain to find.

There is a ground post in that front run bay so you should have no issues getting voltage measurements.

It is possible you have sick engine batteries and when you hit the AUX start button the solenoid that connects the two banks of batteries fell offline and the low voltage issue happened.

That solenoid is a very common problem and can cause all kinds of weird problems. We can address that after you get some voltage measurements.

Do take time to check both battery bank voltages before you start anything.

I can probably talk you through the problem on the phone if you would like. Often playing "20 questions" will sort through things fast.

I have a 2008 SKQ Endeavor so ours should be clones.

[Woodman018]

This probably isn't your problem but it will be quick to check in case you haven't yet. In the rear run box, there are several circuit breakers around the big boy, my coach has 6. They are about 1 1/2 inches square, black, and have a raised area about 1/4 inch high x 1/4 inch wide x 1 1/2 inch long. On one side of each of these there is a rectangular reset button. Even if it doesn't need reset you can feel it move then you will know you have found what I am describing. There are also some automotive fuses in there to check. Wouldn't that be great if that was all it was!!! Good luck.

Dave

[Robin_M]

Originally Posted by tomd85208

Thanks Rob, I'm having difficulty finding a repair shop with good reviews around here in Mesa AZ., I guess I'm gonna have to pick one that I trust the best and hope they know what their doing. I've been screwed over a few times with some local repair shops, that's why I'm so hesitant.

But Thank You for your advice! ...

You're welcome, Tom, but as you can see several other members have left advise for things you can check yourself before taking it into the shop, and all of those suggestions make perfect sense. If I had to guess, I'd say that Nodine's post #8 either nails it, or is very close to doing so. (He usually does. ) I didn't think to pull out my 07 chassis diagram and take a look at what those components you mention have in common electrically.

[flamebuster]

Had a similar issue with mine during a heavy rain in Yellowstone..Don't know if the rain caused it or why, but I lost all acc. power to the panel in the bay under the driver seat area...I found a blown 5 or 10 amp fuse in the rear curbside panel that powers the relay that sends power to the front panel.
I found it by checking the relay large batt. cable terminals with a continuity light tester and found a relay with one side hot and the other dead. The small 12 gauge wiring that pulls in the contacts was also dead. I followed the small wire to a fuse and it was blown, replaced the fuse and everything worked..Hope your problem is this simple...Doug