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Old 09-20-2011, 08:38 AM   #29
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My Dynasty has a battery cut-off switch in the engine compartment that was giving me starting problems same as your symptoms. Poor intermitent contact. Jump across switch for test.
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:23 PM   #30
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make up a 12 volt light with 2 leads...ground 1 lead...and connect the other lead to the stater solenoid....leave light in place until you experience the problem....if the light lights...you have a bad solenoid or starter......if it doesnt light....your problem is in front of the starter/solenoid. Work forward using process of elimination......yes this may take some time...but you will know what has failed and won't be throwing good $ out to replace good parts....just a thought

Can I work the other way around and begin at the ignition? I would like to eliminate the ignition (as being the culprit) from the equation. How can I test the ignition for an intermittent failure?
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:02 PM   #31
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Sure you can start at the front. You will connect the test light to the "crank" terminal on the ig switch. The bulb will light every time you go to the "crank" position.
Intermittent electrical problems can be a REAL pain. Short of spending lots of time on a wild goose chase and throwing lots of $$ at the problem with replacement parts which may or may not fix the problem....the simple light trick will help pinpoint the real problem. You then can make 1 repair and buy only what is actually needed for the repair
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Old 10-02-2011, 04:28 PM   #32
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I had a dead key switch problem last summer. The coach was in for an oil change and then sat in the Cummins bay for 4 days over a weekend while Cummins and Monaco went back and forth. Along the way Allison came out to look at the neutral safety perhaps being the problem (it wasn't). What was discovered is Monaco wires the entire dash key switch through a plug (wire harness) in the rear engine compartment. It was this plug that had corroded and became intermittent.
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Old 10-02-2011, 04:44 PM   #33
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Sure you can start at the front. You will connect the test light to the "crank" terminal on the ig switch. The bulb will light every time you go to the "crank" position.
Intermittent electrical problems can be a REAL pain. Short of spending lots of time on a wild goose chase and throwing lots of $$ at the problem with replacement parts which may or may not fix the problem....the simple light trick will help pinpoint the real problem. You then can make 1 repair and buy only what is actually needed for the repair
Just like they do at the Stealers? (Not sure if that should be a question or a statement)



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Old 10-22-2012, 07:57 PM   #34
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The problem remains!

Today I made 4 start attempts before the engine fired. Four times I turned the key and 4 times nothing happened. Total silence. And then one more trail and VROOM!

I have since last year installed a test light on the ignition switch as suggested by sc3283 on this thread. On each turn of the ignition key, the light came on indicating that the switch is working good.

As a solution, a young RV technician is proposing to run a new wire from the ignition to the starter: direct connection.

Any thoughts on that? Is this a valid alternative?
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Old 10-23-2012, 05:16 AM   #35
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Today I made 4 start attempts before the engine fired. Four times I turned the key and 4 times nothing happened. Total silence. And then one more trail and VROOM!

I have since last year installed a test light on the ignition switch as suggested by sc3283 on this thread. On each turn of the ignition key, the light came on indicating that the switch is working good.

As a solution, a young RV technician is proposing to run a new wire from the ignition to the starter: direct connection.

Any thoughts on that? Is this a valid alternative?
If it's a bad ground at the starter, for example, the test light would still light at the switch. If the switch works but there's a high resistance path to the back of the coach the test light will still work.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:57 AM   #36
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BT-111, When you turn the ignition to the start position this sends 12 volts to a start solenoid and this start solenoid then supplies 12 volts to the starter solenoid terminal that sets on top of the starter. If you ran a wire from the ignition switch straight back to the start terminal on the starter solenoid you will have a voltage loss and your ignition switch is not built to handle this kind of amp load. Do not do what this young guy wants to do! You need to connect your test light to the start terminal of your starter solenoid itself. If it lights everytime you try to start your coach then either your starter solenoid or the starter itself is defective. I would test these things before I started putting new wiring and replacing parts. George 2001 Diplomat
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:45 AM   #37
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BT-111, When you turn the ignition to the start position this sends 12 volts to a start solenoid and this start solenoid then supplies 12 volts to the starter solenoid terminal that sets on top of the starter. If you ran a wire from the ignition switch straight back to the start terminal on the starter solenoid you will have a voltage loss and your ignition switch is not built to handle this kind of amp load. Do not do what this young guy wants to do! You need to connect your test light to the start terminal of your starter solenoid itself. If it lights everytime you try to start your coach then either your starter solenoid or the starter itself is defective. I would test these things before I started putting new wiring and replacing parts. George 2001 Diplomat
I think what BT111 is referring to is running a wire from ignition switch to solenoid replacing the wire which currently is sending the 12v to the solenoid. But that is only one of the possible failure scenarios.

elaborating on my earleier post this AM (before I had my coffee) ...

- There may be a poor ground or corroded connection...either of the solenoid coil or the starter itself.
- The heavy 12vDC cable from battery to solenoid or from solenoid to starter motor may be bad, or these connections may have corrosion.

In any of the above cases a test light connected to the IGN terminal of the ignition switch to a good nearby ground will always light nicely even though one or more of the connections back at the solenoid or starter are bad.

I agree that the next step is to do more diagnoses, however before going through any more tests the next likely step would be (after disconecting the chassis battery) unbolting each electrical connection, including the power and coil terminals on the solenoid, checking for and removing any corrosion... Following this, proceed with tests. Rather than a test light even a cheap volt-ohm-meter would help. Better still (but more costly) a meter that can measure DC current. Even a cheap VOM can do some of the tests below.

Here's a link to a page by Prestolite-Lance-Neville which should help diagnose possible problems in solenoid, starter wiring, etc...
Prestolite - Leece Neville

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