Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryB
the Warning light is coming on again and I'm dropping out of Travel mode again. So now I'm not sure if the Control Box is bad or if the problem is just with the rear HWH 6-pack.
My best bet is probably to send the Control Box in to HWH to have it checked out, and while its out, remove the rear 6-pack and test all the solenoids and air pressure switches, and replace all the o-rings.
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I'm posting today to update this old thread in case anyone in the future runs into a similar problem and finds this thread.
Problem is fixed. The problem was with the rear HWH 6-pack valve bank. I had three bad coils.
The coils should ohm to about 15.5 ohms (which can be easily checked by just unplugging the coil from the wire harness and inserting your multimeter test probes into the connector going to the coil. Three of my coils had "OL" (infinity reading) indicating that the coil winding was "open". The other three were reading 15.2 to 15.5 ohms.
I decided to remove the entire 6-pack manifold and replace the o-rings on all the valves. There's a good write on this here
HWH Leveling Six Pack Solenoid Replace
The hardest part of the job is getting to the manifold. It's located over the transmission at the rear yoke area (on my '05 Beaver). So the driveshaft has to be disconnected and swung out of the way. I purchased a driveshaft bearing puller to remove the u-joints (there was no way this was coming apart without this tool).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Even with that removed, there is still the tag axle housing and track bar in the way. It was a tight squeeze but I was able to get in the space and remove the valve. I also removed the Tag Axle 6-pack valve at this time to replace those O-rings.
If you are doing this job, I would tell you to expect there to be a lot of grease in the area on on the valve. Your not going to be able to read the little tags on the coil wires that tell you what plugs into what. I cleaned the connectors and then marked each one with a paint pen with a matching number on each side of the connector. So when it comes time to reconnect the wires I just need to plug "1" into "1", and "2" into "2" and so on.
The air hoses are 1/4" and 3/8" nylon. They are attached to the manifold with "push-to-connect" fittings. I have never been able to unconnect one of these p-t-c fittings. Expect to have to cut the hose at the fitting. A razor box-cutter tool will cleanly slice off the tube. So you will need to buy new fittings. I went with the Parker air-brake compression fittings. These will insure a good tight connection but you can also get the p-t-c fittings if you prefer. There is plenty of slack in the tubing so don't worry about that 1/4" you are cutting off in the old fitting. Just be sure to mark each tube so you know where it belongs. I used a "label maker" and then printed out a label for each hose and wrapped the label/tape around each hose.
After getting the 6-pack manifold valves off, cleaned up and on the workbench, replacing the bad coils (which are sold with the brass valve for about $110 each) and replacing the o-rings on the rest, was pretty straight forward.
Last night I reinstall the Rear and Tag valve bodies, reinstalled the drive shaft and finished up the rear. This weekend I'll pull the front 6-pack and replace those o-rings. Then hopefully I won't need to worry about the Leveling System for another ten years.
. I note: I do not think it leaked (but worked fine) until I put two qts of HWH fluid in the reservoir to bring it up to the dip stick level. Thanks for the info.
Linear Mode
