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Old 09-24-2012, 05:45 PM   #1
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ISC 8.3 alternator

Need the part alternator part# for ISC 8.3 cummins on a 1999 roadmaster chassis
Monaco Dynasty 40'.

Also where to purchase one.
Thanks.
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Old 09-24-2012, 05:58 PM   #2
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Do you have the brand and part number off the one you have?

You might want to look at rebuilding vs purchase as some of them get expensive. My Leece-Neville is about $1300 new, $900 exchange, and only cost me $400 to have it rebuilt.
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:23 PM   #3
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Alternator

When mine quit I called the manufacturer of the alternator gave him the OEM part # he crossed referenced to a stock model which I was able to purchase locally He also provide me with the location to obtain replacement Alternator The amperage was 10A less than stock but mounting was the same as was the wiring connections.

Good Luck
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texnet View Post
Do you have the brand and part number off the one you have?
It is still on the MH.
You might want to look at rebuilding vs purchase as some of them get expensive. My Leece-Neville is about $1300 new, $900 exchange, and only cost me $400 to have it rebuilt.
I live in the sticks. Nearest city of any size is 75 miles away.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:11 PM   #5
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if you wanna replace it yourself, you're gonna have to get in there and find out what exactly it is.
Problem is it could be almost anything....
Once you have pulled the "culprit" it may even be possible to "google" the replacement parts you need to rebuild it yourself...
Bearings. Diode block. Regulator.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:45 PM   #6
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Textode, the safest thing to do is have the one you have rebuilt. Monaco used a special type and most replacements don't work correctly without wiring modifications. Besides it is much cheaper to rebuild than to replace.

You can put a jumper cable between the positive post of the house and chassis batteries, then run your generator. It will keep all the batteries up while you drive to the nearest town for service.

If you can remove the alternator yourself, then just take it to the nearest town for rebuild. If you can't remove it, then the jumper and generator will get you there.
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:04 AM   #7
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Textode, the safest thing to do is have the one you have rebuilt. Monaco used a special type and most replacements don't work correctly without wiring modifications. Besides it is much cheaper to rebuild than to replace.

You can put a jumper cable between the positive post of the house and chassis batteries, then run your generator. It will keep all the batteries up while you drive to the nearest town for service.

If you can remove the alternator yourself, then just take it to the nearest town for rebuild. If you can't remove it, then the jumper and generator will get you there.
Thanks to all for the info. Will pull today and carry to re-builder in Memphis. I guess this kills the trip scheduled for Friday.
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:22 AM   #8
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I replaced my Leece Neville 160 amp alternator with a 160 Amp Delco 24SI and it works fine. It was a bolt in replacement and cost less than $200. It has been in service for about two years now and works fine. I tried to replace my Leece Neville, but they only made that model for Monaco, and my friends at Monaco wanted $1300. AARGH! I found an almost exact replacement Leece Neville at a truck parts place for about $240 and bought and tried to install. Perefect mechanical fit, but the positive and negative output terminals are reversed and I could not connect the positive without the lug hitting the chassis metal. No Good. I returned the Leece Neville and tried to get my bad unit rebuilt. No go there, the bearings were bad and the rotor needed to be replaced. However, the dealer had the Delco and said it was a bolt in replacement. The output terminals are located correctly and it works great, and it has the output to light the dash light if the unit fails.
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Old 09-26-2012, 02:54 PM   #9
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txtode, I am running a Delco 28SI, part #8600307, rated at 200 amps, that I bought from the local Kenworth dealer. I paid $337.64 for it plus tax and it was a direct replacement. If I hooked up the ignition wire to the alternator post I could turn my key off and my Cummins would keep running. I called Delco and got a service engineer and he asked what kind of truck I had installed this in, he then told me to unhook the ignition wire and I would be OK. I did and it worked great. He said these Delco's don't need the field excited to work and he was correct. I did a lot of checking before I bought this Delco because of all the postings that said this would not work. These alternators don't have brushes. That was a big thing to me because if you look at all the dirt and oil mist that hits the rear of your alternator it is a wonder they last a year. I am on the 3 rd. year with this Delco and it puts out 14.04 volts all the time. I installed a 200 amp breaker in the #2 wire that goes from the battery to the alternator because Monaco never had a fuse or breaker in the alternator charge wire. This alternator works great. I was not going to pay for another Leece Neville when mine only lasted about 22,000 miles. It was only a 160 amp to boot even though Monaco said it was a 200 amp model. When I took it off it was a model #A0012824LC, 160 amp. Good luck, George R. 2001 Diplomat PBD
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Old 09-26-2012, 03:52 PM   #10
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alternators 101

i found a good site to get info on alternators and how to wire them. www.pirate4x4.com article-- 12volt dc by billavista --- in part 2 -- common delco remy alternator wiring. he gives a lot of information. for delco remy #s and mounting www.delcoremy.com alternators the only ones that are not listed are the 120cs and 130cs but you can do a search in that site, and get the info.
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:39 PM   #11
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On some of these coaches the alternators are different than truck alternators. Mine is a Leese Neville and looks the same as a truck alternator but is different. Mine has what they call a duvac system which has a dual circuit to enable powering up all the electronics in a coach. The guy that rebuilt mine said a truck alternator won't work with this system. My alt. has a couple of extra wires that hook up to the smaller terminals on the back.
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:16 AM   #12
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This magic "Duvac" wire only transmits actual battery chassis battery voltage to the alternator. It did not supply power to any other systems on my coach. I pulled this wire out of the harness it was in to see where it went before I bought my Delco. My Duvac wire had a 20 amp fuse in the wire and was as I recall a #12 AWG red wire and it went from the alternator duvac post to the chassis battery bank. If your coach has a solid state battery isolator you must have this Duvac wire, a Leece Neville term all other manufacturers I have seen use the term "Battery Sense Wire". Most alternators must have 12 volts at the alternator output terminal to operate. If you have a battery isolator you don't have 12 volts at the alternator terminal and that is why you have to have this Duvac and/or battery sense wire. You can buy a lot of alternators with this Duvac or battery sense wire. You also have to have a field terminal on the alternator to operate your alternator light and the boing. I unhooked my field terminal to see what it would do and the light came on and the boing sounded. George 2001 Diplomat
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:19 PM   #13
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Update

Just an update.........
Finally got the alt. removed. This is one HEAVY mother. Found re builder in Oxford, Ms. which is only 40 miles away. Re builder had it ready the next day. Total cost $135.00 no tax. Had to get help re installing as it was so heavy.
Cranked it up and everything good..Hooray!
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:09 PM   #14
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Glad you got it working. That's the best solution and you know it will fit!
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