Community Forums

StuartT · 08-22-2018, 09:07 AM

I know it is easy to get off topic guys, but would you mind taking your Silverleaf discussion private, or start another thread? Would appreciate it.

Stuart

8.3Oilbuner · 08-22-2018, 10:54 AM

Hi Stuart; I have the wax fan control on my 01 Windsor with an ISC in the tank. I know I have a different engine and fan controller than you do. When my temp, on my Silver Leaf hits 190 degrees, I can hear the fan engage with all windows closed. I am at only 34' so I would understand that your radiator is further back than mine. If you are not hearing the ROAR from the fan, from what you have posted, I think your are on the right path of finding out your high temp problem. Just went from western Oregon to eastern Oregon with the dash A/C on in 100 degree temps and never got over 201 degrees on the Silver Leaf before cresting the top of the pass. I think you have it nailed in suspecting your fan controller. Let us know how things shake out and good luck!

walt2137 · 08-22-2018, 11:52 AM

Stuart the electric temp controller on your coach are prone to fail a lot of Owners are replacing it with a kit that convertes it back to the old style wax valve and source engineers makes the kit it is not a easy converson but check it out.
Source Engineering Inc | Custom RV Chassis | Eugene, OR

10Boomer · 08-22-2018, 10:15 PM

I might have missed, I have an 08, ISL 400, procedures for checking fan again. Thx

StuartT · 08-23-2018, 09:55 AM

Okay, here is my solution since I normally run cool and only see this problem on long climbs on hot days. It does look like my fan controller is not working properly, i.e., not going to full high when the coolant temperature gets up there, but the rest of the time, all is well, so spending a bucket of money on a new fan controller makes my wallet ache.

Now I have never used the block heater function on any coach I have ever owned over the last 50 years of rv'ing, so that becomes my sacrificial lamb. Since the existing relay did not have a N/C position, I wired a new Bosch relay into the 110v main panel where the old block heater relay is located, relabeled my Block Heat' dash switch to 'Fan-High' (the signal will now control the new relay) and I plagiarized the 14-2 block heater wires to the engine bay plug box. I removed the GFI and tapped the ground wire to the fan controller running (conveniently) right past the box.

So now when I am seeing the temps rise on those long climbs, I can engage the old Block Heat switch, that sets the relay, the N/C contacts open and that breaks the ground connection to the fan controller. The fan goes high speed. I can leave it on during the climb or engage it on-off as needed. Cost, about $5

.

Ps. Yes, I could have run a new line from a new dash switch through the belly of the beast and got all dirty and scrapped up, but this was more fun.

8.3Oilbuner · 08-23-2018, 10:26 AM

Good morning Stuart; Nice fix for your problem. Yes, here in the northwest we very seldom have need for the block heater. Have only used mine once in the past 20+ years of having a diesel pusher. If you can fix something by not going the full Monty, go for it. Will be interesting when you get into hot weather on a grade again to see how your fix worked out. I sure can tell you that when that fan engages, it is loud and you can watch the temps stabilize or go down. Again, nice fix.

StuartT · 08-23-2018, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8.3Oilbuner

Good morning Stuart; Nice fix for your problem. Yes, here in the northwest we very seldom have need for the block heater. Have only used mine once in the past 20+ years of having a diesel pusher. If you can fix something by not going the full Monty, go for it. Will be interesting when you get into hot weather on a grade again to see how your fix worked out. I sure can tell you that when that fan engages, it is loud and you can watch the temps stabilize or go down. Again, nice fix.

Thanks. I appreciate that neighbor.

We may be heading to AZ early this year if the smoke doesn't settle down, so I'll likely get my chance to test it sooner rather than later.

Stuart

oldguy70 · 08-23-2018, 08:36 PM

I love it when anyone looks outside the box and comes up for a solution that works for
them. Nice fix, I wish I could do that to mine but I have the wax valve. I would like to
run my engine around 200 degrees. I tried to get 190 thermostats when I first bought
my rig but there is none available.

BigLar368 · 08-24-2018, 04:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldguy70

I love it when anyone looks outside the box and comes up for a solution that works for
them. Nice fix, I wish I could do that to mine but I have the wax valve. I would like to
run my engine around 200 degrees. I tried to get 190 thermostats when I first bought
my rig but there is none available.

Why would you want to run at 200? Just curious.

oldguy70 · 08-24-2018, 07:46 PM

The engine runs cleaner and better fuel economy. The last trip my fan wouldn't go into
high gear and I was running between 200 and 210 and it was the cheapest trip I have
Between Burnaby an Whistler.

Fred403 · 01-30-2019, 08:31 AM

We had a similar problem with our 2005 Holiday Rambler w/400 ISL overheating. The problem turned out to be a faulty Air Filter Minder. Once we changed out the air filter and cleaned out the airbox everything was back to normal. We always looked for something more complicated, but in the end, it was a quick inexpensive fix.

Spaceball · 01-30-2019, 11:41 AM

Good fix you came up with, you might try cleaning that main plug to the controller really good with electric cleaner, then slather some dialectic grease in it. The controller itself may be on it's way to failing however.

Had similar issue, but opposite on the heat scale. My engine would not warm up if it was cold out. Fan controller failed in default position making fan run in 747 takeoff mode.

I replaced with a wax valve, did not buy the kit. I did not need hose extensions either, Monaco left plenty of slack in the lines in my case. Got it all done for less than $250 and an afternoon of work.

I tried to video it, but video logger/tv personality I am not, more focused on the project than videoing lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKYu4Fg_6Qo

RamiDav · 01-30-2019, 07:50 PM

The switch is an interesting idea . Another plus might be when going down
a steep mountain the engine temp will drop and the fan will slow down .
The fan uses a lot of power so being able to flip a sw and turn the fan on full
should help slow you down .
If this proves to actually help slow the coach please let us know . I just may try
modifying mine .

Ray

StuartT · 04-06-2019, 02:49 PM

Jeromy (Spaceball), you should have gotten a lot of kudos for posting that video you made on replacing your electronic fan controller with a good old standby wax controller. That clip was excellent and beyond that, the second one you did (Part 2) installing a needle valve to engage fan rpms at low RPM's to support the AC was a great addition.

Can you tell me the part number on that wax valve you installed and/or where you sourced it? In the video you never turned the valve label towards the camera so all I can see is that it is a Sauer-Danfoss valve.

Thanks again for your post.