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I also went with the 120v version. My ice maker plug on back is powered by the inverter. So no extra wiring required. If you go with the 12v you will most likely need to run a dictated 10 gauge with to the back of your fridge which is what JC recommends. Mine pulls .9 amps. I did not have to install a new inverter, it work fine with my old 2004 modified sign wave version. It also works great and keeps ice cream frozen hard. Just got back from 2300 mile trip with no problems. I think JC charges $250 for the install. You need to make a appointment in advance as they are very busy during the summer. I did my on install at my house.
2004 Monaco Knight 34pdd
I went with the 12V version because I didn't want to run an inefficient DC-AC inverter 24/7. That choice was based on my electrical engineering background. Overall the 12V version is going to be more efficient and use less overall energy from your batteries. Any DC-AC converter is going to be at best 80%-90% efficient and is the root cause of the loss of efficiency. Net result is a 120V powered unit running on a DC-AC converter is going require 110% to 120% more current from the battery anytime you aren't connected to shore power.
Another factor is if you are running your inverter 24/7 any other items such as TVs, microwaves and etc. that are connected to the inverter supplied 120 VAC are drawing perisidic power even when turned off. This results in even more drain on the batteries.
2007 Monaco Cayman/2017 Jeep Rubicon
Photographer, HAM Radio Operator KA7IPL
Neighbor replace his sorry RV fridge cooling unit with a 120 VAC compressor unit. Works great for him.
__________________ Amateur Radio Operator (KE5DFR)|Full-Time! - 2012 6.7L Ford Crew Cab Dually -2013 HitchHiker Champagne 38RLRSB - Currently FOR SALE Travel with one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot, retired mechanical engineer