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Old 12-29-2018, 12:37 PM   #15
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Our LN failed in the middle of NV and we had to jump the house-chassis batteries and run the gen to get home. Since then I've been thinking of getting something that would provide a charge to the chassis batteries while plugged in/ running the gen, that would also provide enough amps to keep the engine/transmission happy by running the gen in the event of an alt failure.

Has anyone done this, or would there be any recommendations??

My biggest problem with this is that I don't have any idea of how many amps would be required for the engine and transmission.

Steve
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Old 12-29-2018, 01:01 PM   #16
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Buy this ; https://www.yandina.com/NewCatalog.htm
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Old 12-29-2018, 05:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dix39 View Post
Our LN failed in the middle of NV and we had to jump the house-chassis batteries and run the gen to get home. Since then I've been thinking of getting something that would provide a charge to the chassis batteries while plugged in/ running the gen, that would also provide enough amps to keep the engine/transmission happy by running the gen in the event of an alt failure.

Has anyone done this, or would there be any recommendations??

My biggest problem with this is that I don't have any idea of how many amps would be required for the engine and transmission.

Steve
I've been using an AMP-L-start. Works great.
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Old 12-29-2018, 05:49 PM   #18
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RV'rs have alternator problems due the way they are used. If you boondock and your batteries are low in the morning you should not just fire up the MH and drive away. The alternator is not meant to charge your batteries in this manner. Start the genie and bring up the batteries first.
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Old 12-29-2018, 08:35 PM   #19
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I guess the biggest unknown I have is, how many amps do I need to run the Allison, 5.9 Cummins, and keep the batteries charged?

I think twinboat is suggesting the battery combiner which would definitely work, but I would probably need the 160 amp they appear to be sold out. It would seem that another similar option would be a large continuous duty solenoid switched from the inside front of the MH for times of high amp need, and an Amp-L-Start for when a trickle charge is needed. I worry about overcharging with a direct uncontrolled connection, but maybe the inverter, or something else would take care of that?? It seemed like the charge from the gen was reduced after the batteries were charged on the way back from NV running on the gen with no alt. I wish I knew more about these systems.

There is also a Magnum Energy Smart Battery Combiner (ME-SBC) that operates at up to 25 amps with a solenoid drive for requirements greater than 25 amps, but with no information about how much greater. It seems similar to the Amp-L Start, except with a higher amperage.

Thanks for all the help.

Steve
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Old 12-30-2018, 05:39 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veraken View Post
I replaced my 160 amp Leece Neville 2824LC with a 200 amp Delco Remy 28SI.
Note to anyone else doing a similar swap /upgrade (going to a higher output alternator), be sure to verify that the cables are of sufficient size to carry the amperage.

You would not want to risk melting (or a fire) by using too small of cables. Cable length matters.
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Old 12-30-2018, 05:59 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by dix39 View Post
I guess the biggest unknown I have is, how many amps do I need to run the Allison, 5.9 Cummins, and keep the batteries charged?

I think twinboat is suggesting the battery combiner which would definitely work, but I would probably need the 160 amp they appear to be sold out. It would seem that another similar option would be a large continuous duty solenoid switched from the inside front of the MH for times of high amp need, and an Amp-L-Start for when a trickle charge is needed. I worry about overcharging with a direct uncontrolled connection, but maybe the inverter, or something else would take care of that?? It seemed like the charge from the gen was reduced after the batteries were charged on the way back from NV running on the gen with no alt. I wish I knew more about these systems.

There is also a Magnum Energy Smart Battery Combiner (ME-SBC) that operates at up to 25 amps with a solenoid drive for requirements greater than 25 amps, but with no information about how much greater. It seems similar to the Amp-L Start, except with a higher amperage.

Thanks for all the help.

Steve
Your 160 amp alternator is installed for maintaining your chassis and charging your house batteries.

If you calculate all of your chassis energy needs, you'll probable find that a 50 amp alternator would be all you need.
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Old 12-30-2018, 06:20 AM   #22
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Here is a simple but well made battery isolator. This company has lots of interesting devcies. Diode isolators have a loss of current.

https://www.powerstream.com/battery-isolator.htm
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Old 12-30-2018, 06:27 AM   #23
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Here is a simple but well made battery isolator. This company has lots of interesting devcies. Diode isolators have a loss of current.

https://www.powerstream.com/battery-isolator.htm
That can work but its not bi-directional.

With 2 charging systems, being able to automaticly charge both battery banks from either source, with one device, is a nice feature.
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Old 12-30-2018, 10:55 AM   #24
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Apparently, the MH already has a separator which works when the gen or outside power is being used, and a combiner that works when power is being supplied by the alternator. Perhaps there is a way to "tweak" what is already there to get the desired results??

Anyway, I have already used more of the OP's post than I should have and am willing to go back to the topic at hand. Many thanks to all of you who responded to my questions. You have given me plenty of new ideas and directions in which to go. We won't need the MH until summer, and by then I'll have something in place. As with most of these things, there is always more than enough to work on.

Thanks again.

Steve
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Old 12-30-2018, 11:13 AM   #25
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"Diode isolators have a loss of current." Huh? Diode isolators have a .75-ish Volt drop, which is compensated for by using the battery sense wire, which increases alternator voltage.
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Old 12-30-2018, 08:36 PM   #26
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I converted to a 28SI when my alternator died in the middle of nowhere Louisiana and I couldn't get the original. If your system has the DUVAC system the 28SI will not work with it. I got great support from Monaco that it will not work and they told me to disconnect the relay in the power bay to make the alt charge light go out. Unfortunately for me the tech did hook it up before I was informed and it fried the relay, which I will need to replace if I go back to the original alternator in the future. So far the system has worked great for the last year, keeping both the house and chassis batteries charged
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Old 01-08-2019, 02:21 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z32k12 View Post
I converted to a 28SI when my alternator died in the middle of nowhere Louisiana and I couldn't get the original. If your system has the DUVAC system the 28SI will not work with it. I got great support from Monaco that it will not work and they told me to disconnect the relay in the power bay to make the alt charge light go out. Unfortunately for me the tech did hook it up before I was informed and it fried the relay, which I will need to replace if I go back to the original alternator in the future. So far the system has worked great for the last year, keeping both the house and chassis batteries charged

Good info as usual on here. I definitely have a DUVAC system. Guess I'll just keep my fingers crossed and see how long this LN rebuild will last.
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