I, like may others, have a leaking Lippert slide pump which operates the two front slides. Lippert informed me their warranty was one year.
Being on my own, I tore into it. After dissecting the assembly, I found a shaft seal on the pump leaking, saturating the motor. When I contacted Lippert , they said they don’t stock any parts for them as it is imported as an assembly. They did say they had a seal kit for one other model but not mine.
The bad seal was extremely hard, like it was many years old. Whereas, the new one was pliable.
Having the seal in hand, I called a local supply house and asked for a 10 22 8 seal. An hour later I had the seal in hand - actually 2 as they were $2.36 each.
10mm = ID
22mm = OD
8mm = thickness
Lippert made many variations of the Hydraulic pump, so the seals might vary pump to pump. As the numbers are on the seal, it is not hard to find one.
With the seal, 3 cans brake cleaner, 4 quarts of ATF and 4 hours of labor, I was back whole again.
It’s been 6000 miles and 2 months and nary a leak.
And, the rest of the story……
Locate you Lippert slide pump and take many pictures of the hydraulic lines and wires. The spray it with brake clean, as there will be black paint overspray and rust colored protectant paint on the electrical wires and terminals. Get enough paint off so you can see the wire color and then take more pictures.
Also, with the hydraulic lines clean, number each line and corresponding fitting. Take pictures of the lines.
Move slide(s) out an inch or two so the will be no pressure on any of the hydraulic rams.
Turn off batteries and disconnect wires. Look at above picture and disconnect hydraulic lines where they attach to brass colored fitting. Also, look at the picture of the unit on the bench and you can see the brass colored fitting that stays attached to the pump body. There will be some fluid loss, but no more than a cup. Unbolt unit from frame. Mine had two bolts coming up from the bottom.
Once on the bench, empty the fluid reservoir and give it a good spraying with brake clean. The brass colored fittings where the lines attach have rubber o rings just sitting in a recess. Make sure they are there. If you lose any, take one to the parts store to match up.
My coach has 2 hydraulic slides, each with 2 rams each. And each ram has an out hose and an in hose. So, my pump has 8 hoses. Yours may be different.
At the end of the white reservoir, you will find a black plastic flange bonded to the reservoir. This flange is bolted to the manifold body. Depending on the model, the bolts will enter through the manifold body into the threaded flange ear, like Monaco Mama’s Diplomat. These use regular bolts and are easy to remove.
Or, they enter through the flange ears into threaded holes in the manifold body like in my Camelot. These are small machine screws with allen heads and take time to remove/replace, a half turn at a time.
Once the 4 reservoir screws are out, take off the white reservoir and the oil pump will be exposed.
Unbolt the pump from the manifold block using the 2 bolts not the 2 nuts. The bolts are a lighter color than the nut, in my case.
Seal area cleaned
Once removed, use the 2 remaining bolts/nut to disassemble the pump. There are 2 gears and 2 shafts that will fall out if not careful. Keep oil pick up screen side down to eliminate that. Using a screwdriver, carefully pry out the seal without marring the aluminum sealing surface (OD of seal.)
My seal was numbered 10 22 8, which meant OD,ID & thickness. I used a 10 22 7 for a replacement and there wasn’t the 1 mm difference, only maybe ½ mm.
Using a socket, or seal driver, install the new seal, numbers up.
Now unbolt the motor from the manifold block, disassemble, clean with brake cleaner and reassemble. (If not comfortable with cleaning the motor, an electrical motor shop could do this part for you.) Mine was quite a mess with the oil, but windings, armature and brushes were fine.
Just a good cleaning and lubing of the end bushings took care of this part. Note: there is a short intermediate shaft that connects the motor output shat to the oil pump shaft. Use care ensuring it is centered on the slots at both ends.
All that is left is to reassemble it, keeping it clean along the way. And remember those O rings when connecting the hydraulic lines. Fill with ATF (or check your owners manual for fluid type) to within 1 inch of the top of the reservoir.
I had to run mine 6 – 8 times for 20 seconds, each time, to get the slides to start moving. I was concerned after about the fourth time and no movement, but I kept at it and once the pump got primed all was normal. Run it once for 20 seconds, wait 2 minutes to cool, the run it for another 20 seconds. Now wait 15 minutes for cool down and repeat above.
Broken rod
....I think I can find one instead. Salvage or something...Thanks for the suggestion.
), be very careful to hold on to the armature end very tightly when you reinsert it into the case that holds the magnets. The magnets are very strong and they pulled the armature into the case with enough force to really damage a finger if one was in the way. 
Dropped the whole assembly on the floor and bent a terminal screw in the process, but motor seems fine even though it looks a little toasted by the brushes. 
Linear Mode
