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gg · 10-08-2012, 09:44 AM

My Lippert replacement pump (April 2010) lasted 16 months. The Motor leaked oil. I pulled the asm and called Lippert. They (Don) confirmed the warranty asm build date and offered a new motor and coupler, (no seal) free of charge. I received it in Two days 20 Sept 2012

.

The New motor has a sintered metal filter drain on the bottom with a new end cap to match the new coupler with two O rings on it with Grease.
I obtained New SKF seals that are rated to 2000 Psi. I used a 1/2 inch Lag screw to extract the seal from the pump housing and a socket to press the seal in place. I used a drill press as a arbor press.

Comment : my 2Cents Lippert has tried to stabilize the coupler with the new O rings and provide additional oil barrier to the motor. If I didn't receive the new motor I would have replace the seal, drilled a drain hole in the bottom of the motor. The old small coupler and the new larger one have the slots machined with sharp corners, this is a stress riser. If using a small coupler I would have a new one made without the sharp corners and fitted O rings to fit the Motor end cap Dia and the new small coupler. The coupler takes out the misalignment and it is just chance as to how much the coupler orbits and the seal lips move in there job to keep the oil out.

Note: if reusing the motor the bearing needs to be relubed as the Dextron 3 has washed out the grease.

The most time consuming part is to clean the dirt from the asm prior to removing. Dirt will kill a hydraulic system so make sure you clean and cover all the openings.
After the install and test I have bagged the asm the best I could with a garbage bag and tape.

Attached Pictures

gg · 10-08-2012, 10:01 AM

try pic again

gg · 10-11-2012, 10:04 AM

The Lippert hydraulic jack/slide unit has this blue knob. Does anyone know what it function is??

Air bleed valve? flow control? Don't touch it?

IMDSailor · 10-11-2012, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gg

The Lippert hydraulic jack/slide unit has this blue knob. Does anyone know what it function is??

Air bleed valve? flow control? Don't touch it?

Personally I have no idea, mine doesn't have that. All the rest looks the same.

Happycarz · 10-11-2012, 08:17 PM

Apparently, you have the new improved design. All you need now are the instructions.

Sorry, can't help you, as mine doesn't have that knob.

sfdladder11 · 03-18-2013, 11:36 AM

Lippert sent me a new motor and coupler too. This is the third repair to the system motor that I have had to accomplish. One entire unit was replaced the first year under warranty, then that was rebuilt the second year. I have had more issues with the system, including control problems. I have put out over $3500 in repair costs. At least Lippert stepped up this time. I am very happy with all of these posts. They have been very useful. Thanks to everyone who has posted.

RonaldNC · 03-18-2013, 08:04 PM

In my manual, it says that the blue knob is a isolator valve. The isolator valve can be two different types. Both are located in the same area on the
hydraulic pump.

Type #1 has an exposed blue knurled knob that can be seen. Push in on
the isolator valve and turn counter clockwise all the way until valve stops.
Valve will now pop out.
Type #2 has a black cap over it. Unscrew the black cap. Turn brass
knurled knob counter clockwise.

This valve allows you to manually retract the landing legs if the motor fails.

Hope this helps.

Ron

rupdamon · 07-14-2013, 08:55 PM

Does anyone know of a recall on the Lippert Unit in my 2009 damon . Motor is toasted and lippert is not much help. Motor doesn't even work with drill. Thanks

CaymanPilot · 10-31-2013, 06:19 PM

Harry, Thanks so much for your excellent pictorial. I just replaced my leaking shaft seal and now there is no more leak! I would like to add 2 items to the procedure for future DIYer's to benefit from.
1. Before removing all the wiring from the motor and after turning off the battery switches as shown in the OP, you should also unplug the shorepower so there is no power to the coach. In my Cayman the inverter was still putting out 12VDC to the positive cable running to the pump motor even though I had turned off the house and coach battery switches. This could result in the cable trying to weld itself to one of the many metal frame pieces in the hydraulic bay. Ask me how I know this.

2. After re-assembly and successful testing is complete, spray the motor terminals with battery terminal protector.

Happy DIY-ing!

Happycarz · 11-03-2013, 08:18 PM

Thanks for the compliment. And, great additional advice for those that have to reseal theirs.

wrtmrt · 01-03-2014, 01:34 PM

happycarz, your instructions on the lippert rebuild were excellent and saved us! BUT our slides now won't go out...extract I guess is the correct word. What went wrong?? They were out when we started and we put them in after our rebuild, but now they won't got out. It seems like the pump isn't pumping. Hey, we see the you are in Scottsdale...we are in Cave Creek...could we call you??????? Bill and Michele

38 Special · 01-03-2014, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrtmrt

happycarz, your instructions on the lippert rebuild were excellent and saved us! BUT our slides now won't go out...extract I guess is the correct word. What went wrong?? They were out when we started and we put them in after our rebuild, but now they won't got out. It seems like the pump isn't pumping. Hey, we see the you are in Scottsdale...we are in Cave Creek...could we call you??????? Bill and Michele

I have done this twice. One time I had to cycle it several times to get the air out. I would hit the button and hold it even though nothing was moving. For about 20 seconds. Wait for a little while for the motor to cool (not sure needed, buy can't hurt), then do it again. Took about 6 times. Other time, it was not needed, but I put plugs immediately on the lines to stop fluid loss.

wrtmrt · 01-03-2014, 03:07 PM

we tried that but weird things happened. we tried to put the slides out and it seemed like the motor wasn't pumping. then we found a connector that we missed (?), connected that and the slides then went out. But when we tried to put them back in, we got the same noise as before and nothing happened again? any thoughts? thanks for your reply and help.

38 Special · 01-03-2014, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrtmrt

we tried that but weird things happened. we tried to put the slides out and it seemed like the motor wasn't pumping. then we found a connector that we missed (?), connected that and the slides then went out. But when we tried to put them back in, we got the same noise as before and nothing happened again? any thoughts? thanks for your reply and help.

You do not have your coach model in your sig.

Verify everything is hooked back up correct, both electrical and hydraulic.

I still think it is air in the system. But it also could be a connection issue. Are you 100% sure the hydraulic and electrical were put back the same.

I am at my coach, and can take any pictures you think might be helpful.

Mine may be different though, I have two hydraulic slides and no jacks (air leveling)

Mine may be different though, I have two hydraulic slides and no jacks (air leveling) only.