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Old 11-24-2009, 12:19 AM   #1
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Lippert Seal Replacement

I, like may others, have a leaking Lippert slide pump which operates the two front slides. Lippert informed me their warranty was one year.

Being on my own, I tore into it. After dissecting the assembly, I found a shaft seal on the pump leaking, saturating the motor. When I contacted Lippert , they said they don’t stock any parts for them as it is imported as an assembly. They did say they had a seal kit for one other model but not mine.

The bad seal was extremely hard, like it was many years old. Whereas, the new one was pliable.

Having the seal in hand, I called a local supply house and asked for a 10 22 8 seal. An hour later I had the seal in hand - actually 2 as they were $2.36 each.
10mm = ID
22mm = OD
8mm = thickness

Lippert made many variations of the Hydraulic pump, so the seals might vary pump to pump. As the numbers are on the seal, it is not hard to find one.

With the seal, 3 cans brake cleaner, 4 quarts of ATF and 4 hours of labor, I was back whole again.

It’s been 6000 miles and 2 months and nary a leak.


And, the rest of the story……

Locate you Lippert slide pump and take many pictures of the hydraulic lines and wires. The spray it with brake clean, as there will be black paint overspray and rust colored protectant paint on the electrical wires and terminals. Get enough paint off so you can see the wire color and then take more pictures.



Also, with the hydraulic lines clean, number each line and corresponding fitting. Take pictures of the lines.



Move slide(s) out an inch or two so the will be no pressure on any of the hydraulic rams.
Turn off batteries and disconnect wires. Look at above picture and disconnect hydraulic lines where they attach to brass colored fitting. Also, look at the picture of the unit on the bench and you can see the brass colored fitting that stays attached to the pump body. There will be some fluid loss, but no more than a cup. Unbolt unit from frame. Mine had two bolts coming up from the bottom.


Once on the bench, empty the fluid reservoir and give it a good spraying with brake clean. The brass colored fittings where the lines attach have rubber o rings just sitting in a recess. Make sure they are there. If you lose any, take one to the parts store to match up.





My coach has 2 hydraulic slides, each with 2 rams each. And each ram has an out hose and an in hose. So, my pump has 8 hoses. Yours may be different.

At the end of the white reservoir, you will find a black plastic flange bonded to the reservoir. This flange is bolted to the manifold body. Depending on the model, the bolts will enter through the manifold body into the threaded flange ear, like Monaco Mama’s Diplomat. These use regular bolts and are easy to remove.



Or, they enter through the flange ears into threaded holes in the manifold body like in my Camelot. These are small machine screws with allen heads and take time to remove/replace, a half turn at a time.



Once the 4 reservoir screws are out, take off the white reservoir and the oil pump will be exposed.



Unbolt the pump from the manifold block using the 2 bolts not the 2 nuts. The bolts are a lighter color than the nut, in my case.



Seal area cleaned


Once removed, use the 2 remaining bolts/nut to disassemble the pump. There are 2 gears and 2 shafts that will fall out if not careful. Keep oil pick up screen side down to eliminate that. Using a screwdriver, carefully pry out the seal without marring the aluminum sealing surface (OD of seal.)



My seal was numbered 10 22 8, which meant OD,ID & thickness. I used a 10 22 7 for a replacement and there wasn’t the 1 mm difference, only maybe mm.





Using a socket, or seal driver, install the new seal, numbers up.

Now unbolt the motor from the manifold block, disassemble, clean with brake cleaner and reassemble. (If not comfortable with cleaning the motor, an electrical motor shop could do this part for you.) Mine was quite a mess with the oil, but windings, armature and brushes were fine.



Just a good cleaning and lubing of the end bushings took care of this part. Note: there is a short intermediate shaft that connects the motor output shat to the oil pump shaft. Use care ensuring it is centered on the slots at both ends.

All that is left is to reassemble it, keeping it clean along the way. And remember those O rings when connecting the hydraulic lines. Fill with ATF (or check your owners manual for fluid type) to within 1 inch of the top of the reservoir.

I had to run mine 6 – 8 times for 20 seconds, each time, to get the slides to start moving. I was concerned after about the fourth time and no movement, but I kept at it and once the pump got primed all was normal. Run it once for 20 seconds, wait 2 minutes to cool, the run it for another 20 seconds. Now wait 15 minutes for cool down and repeat above.
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Old 11-24-2009, 11:36 AM   #2
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Harry... I decided to make this a specific thread because I don't think it is really a Modification or a Tip..but an actual repair. I did not want to add it to the other thread...because his problem may not have anything to do with what you did.

Sacs said that you only did this project so you would have a reason to shine the parts! Geez... just how much stuff did you use to clean that area!??

BTW- Your write-ups are so User Friendly that I think I need to start a thread that only you can post in and add to with all your write-ups!



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Old 11-24-2009, 09:29 PM   #3
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Harry

Excellent post. Great pics and details. You did a fantastic clean -up job just to start - all the undercoating/ dirt.

The 2 seals you bought are from known quality seal supplier -good choice. Did you chose the 7 mm one due to what was in stock?

IMHO clean the brushes and add no lube they should self lubrciate - Graphite.
brake clean - some plastics can be attacked by cleaners try a test spot.
Offshore supplier of seals, & lube have not reversed engineered the product to meet what we require/ or QC missed a key requirement like Ozone tolerance. DC Motors produce ozone. - Hard/ brittle seals. I wonder what Lippert says on how big this problem is? My Coach just turned one year old! No leak yet.


Thank you - IRV2 and Harry for a great resource.
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Old 11-24-2009, 11:58 PM   #4
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I want Harry to give a class on this at Q.
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Old 11-25-2009, 01:38 AM   #5
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Quartzsite is a MUST for those of you who have not met "happycarz" ...you cannot believe how methodically his brain works....
(stop blushing, Harry...it is true)



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Old 11-25-2009, 04:55 PM   #6
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Awesome post with good pics and a great description!!!
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:24 AM   #7
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Great write up! I too have a leaking seal and just completed disassembly of the unit on my 09 Cheetah. The problem with mine was the seal was loose in the ID of the bore of the pump. It just fell out when disassembled. The size was the same as stated above. Monday I will order a replacement seal. My unit began leaking shortly after purchase in July. The old seal appears to be a poor quality seal. One note to add, the very small socket head capscrews that attatch the reservoir to the manifold were not a standard metric or SAE hex key size. I had to file a hex key wrench to fit the capscrews.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:04 AM   #8
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I can't understand why Monaco haven't employed happycars yet.

Happycars should be in customer service and technical support - anything else is an absolute waste of his talent
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:53 PM   #9
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Thanks for the compliments. I'm glad I can share some knowledge. I appreciate when others help me, so I just pay it forward. Good Karma
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Old 05-07-2011, 11:12 AM   #10
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Happycarz,
I found the same issues when I took my pump apart. Motor gummed up and the seal fell out on the bench. I went with a Vicon seal. I believe the ATF is attacking the rubber seal. The seal that came out was .012 smaller on the OD than the new seal.
Anyway, great post and saved me some $$$
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Old 05-07-2011, 08:04 PM   #11
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Super! Another happy camper.
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:52 AM   #12
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I have the same leak and talked to Lippert and was told the following:

1. If it is a Haldex labelled pump, have a dealer verify it and call Lippert and they will ship a replacement unit. But they only work through dealers.

2. If it is NOT a Haldex pump, they recommend disassembling the reservoir from the pump, cleaning the mating surface carefully, and use high temp Permatec sealant to help hold the seal. This is supposed to fix the problem.

I asked how you can tell a Haldex pump and he said it would be labelled on the unit.

== John
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Old 01-04-2012, 11:48 AM   #13
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I just replaced my seal. Great photos and a lot of good advise. A few follow-up points. My 08 Monaco Camelot also had a maginet that was attached to the pump by the pick-up tube. I also had to remove the pick-up tube to get at one of the bolts holding the pump together.

The new part number is 56261 (10/22/7) the other seal in the photo above was too big.
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Old 01-04-2012, 08:09 PM   #14
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The pictures were very interesting as the little "coupler" with the slot is what Lippert sent me that has two black "0" rings on it. As I had a shop install it under the recall I didn't get to see if there was a seal that should have been replaced or not.
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