Location of Fuse for Porch Light

[Timaz]

Can anyone tell me the Location of the fuze for the porch light on my coach?

[gonecampin1]

Ours on a 2003 windsor is #5 in the 12v panel in the bedroom.

[K7JV]

On our '06 Dynasty, the porch light is fed from a relay on Board #1, on the right wall of the front run box. There are no fuses on that relay board, but looking at the schematic for the board, there are more than one common power supply sources for the verious loads that are on the board. Without considerable digging, I'm not sure where that particular power source would be. However, on our coach the porch light and the ceiling lights (that would be the ones that you switch from the rocker switches on your arm rests) use the same power supply source. You might check to see if those cab ceiling lights are also "dead". If not, have you checked the bulb in your porch light?

Let us know how you make out. I can dig deeper, but it may be quite a challenge ferreting it out from the not-so-red-hot drawings that Monaco provided for me.

[Timaz]

I actually have lost all power to the passenger side pedestal. I have checked all of the fuzes in the driver's side outside panel and bedroom cabinet panel. If it is a relay, I have no idea which one or where it would be located.
I'm past being tied of electrical issues with this coach. HELP!

[Timaz]

Originally Posted by K7JV

On our '06 Dynasty, the porch light is fed from a relay on Board #1, on the right wall of the front run box. There are no fuses on that relay board, but looking at the schematic for the board, there are more than one common power supply sources for the verious loads that are on the board. Without considerable digging, I'm not sure where that particular power source would be. However, on our coach the porch light and the ceiling lights (that would be the ones that you switch from the rocker switches on your arm rests) use the same power supply source. You might check to see if those cab ceiling lights are also "dead". If not, have you checked the bulb in your porch light?

Let us know how you make out. I can dig deeper, but it may be quite a challenge ferreting it out from the not-so-red-hot drawings that Monaco provided for me.

This power source includes the lights for the steps and the grab handle, and power to the stock power antenna.and the storage compartment lights. My 12v wiring diagram has not been any help.

[Timaz]

I have found the wiring DIA section I needed. I have lost all power to the top right corner on this wiring diagram...see picture. (Domestic Battery Stud) It goes to the high current plate battery stud. Is this in the rear run bay or on the battery? I'm done for the day. It's still 103F here. Is there any connections in between I need to find? thanks again for your knowledge.

[K7JV]

Wow, Tim, it's not an easy question. These coaches are so incredibly different from year to year and model to model. On our '06 Dynasty, the front run plate (box) has four large lugs on the left (front of the coach) wall of the box. The top two are chassis battery terminals, and they are bussed together. The bottom two are coach battery terminals. One is always "HOT" and the other is hot when the coach battery disconnect is turned "ON".

Also, on the '06 Dynasty, all four of those lugs in the front run plate are fed directly from the rear run plate (box), in the engine compartment. That box is, in turn, fed directly from the coach and chassis batteries with nothing in line between them other than the battery disconnect switch for the switched source.

Particularly since your drawing is labeled the "FRONT RUN PLATE", I would expect that lug to be a penetration thru the wall into your front run box. It should look pretty much like the other two that are shown on your drawing. I have a hunch that what they are referring to in the upper right corner as the "HIGH CURRENT PLATE" may likely be in the rear run box, if you have one. On our '94 Dynasty, the rear run plate was actually the front wall of the engine compartment, just below the bed access cover, and the components were all mounted to that front wall. Access was under the bed. On our '06 Dynasty, the rear run plate is in a box, maybe 18" square, mounted in the upper passenger side corner of the engine compartment, easily accessed thru the rear engine hatch. Your coach was made about half way between the two that we had, so your evolution of design should likewise be somewhere between the two.

From that lug on your drawing, and not seeing any other information, I would say there are three possible trouble points for you to look at. One would be the coach battery disconnect switch. However, if you have your other coach lights, pumps, etc. working, that would not be your problem. The second would be the "Salesman switch" relay. But again, if your other stuff works, that is not the problem.

For the third, try looking in the rear run box, whatever form that takes in your coach, and see if you can find the other end of that conductor that feeds your front run box. According to your drawing, it should be a red, #1 copper cable. That would be a little larger than a pencil and have a substantial lug upon which it is terminated. It may be that it is terminated on one of a row of large terminals in the rear run box. If so, see if you can follow it to a circuit breaker, or some other device, and maybe be able to look for voltages across those protective devices to find where your power supply is being interrupted.

Many of us are watching your efforts and information gathering successes. Keep us informed. More pictures, such as your rear run box or your front run box might be helpful. Yours is substantially different from our '06, so others may be of far greater help to you than you can get from me.

Good luck!!

[Timaz]

Here are pictures of the rear run bays. I will find a front bay picture when I get home. I agree, the third option is all I have to check...should be easy. Should be the lower right solidiod in the bottom picture. I'll find out tonight.

[Timaz]

Front Run bay

[Timaz]

I found the issue. this solenoid.see picture

[K7JV]

Fantastic! What did you find? That coils says it is a "Continuous Duty", so it should be quite warm, perhaps even quite hot. If your "Salesman Switch" is in the ON position, you should read 12 volts across the two smaller terminals, and near zero volts across the two larger terminals. If it is in the OFF position, you should read zero volts across the two smaller terminals, and anywhere from zero to perhaps a couple of volts across the two larger terminals. That voltage across the two larger terminal should be approximately the same number you would get it you subtracted the voltage you read on your chassis battery from the voltage you read on your coach battery.

I hope that was the problem. You are doing an awesome job of chasing this down and keeping us in the loop. Also, your front run box looks somewhat like the one that was in our '94 Dynasty but is 99.9% different than what they did in the 2006 models. It is really hard to see all that is going on in your front run box!!!

[Timaz]

No one close by had one so I ordered it from Amazon. I'll have it today. Yep I had 12.9 across the two small and 0 across the big ones...

[K7JV]

FIRST OFF, MY INFORMATION IN MY POST ABOVE ON JUNE 11 AT 7:07 IS NOT ACCURATE! I was describing what you should see on your battery tie solenoid (the Big Boy on some coaches), not the domestic battery disconnect solenoid. That was my error! My description was accurate, up until where I said that you should see, "anywhere from zero to perhaps a couple of volts across the two larger terminals. That voltage across the two larger terminal should be approximately the same number you would get it you subtracted the voltage you read on your chassis battery from the voltage you read on your coach battery." That part, while true when looking at the battery tie solenoid, is not true relating to the solenoid we are dealing with. When your domestic battery solenoid is de-energized, you should read zero volts across the small terminals and over 12 volts across the large terminals. I don't know if you tested it with it in the de-energized state, or not, but at this point it doesn't matter.

Did you by chance test the domestic solenoid operation by toggling your "Salesman Switch"? You should be able to feel and hear it operate when you toggle that switch, if that is the one. Again, if true, then when the switch is toggled to the ON position you should read 12 volts across the two smaller terminals, and near zero volts across the two larger terminals, and that is exactly what you just said you were seeing.

Looking more at your pictures, here is what I am seeing. The large blue device in the upper left of your rear run box is the battery isolator, and is a dual power diode that brings charging energy in from your engine alternator and routes it to both of your batteries, any time your engine is running, to charge them as well as to power those normal loads while the engine is running. There is a large conductor that runs from your domestic battery terminal ( the top one) on that device down to the strip with four circuit breakers on it. One of those, the bottom one, feeds the bottom solenoid that, when energized, appears from the drawing to power your domestic fuse strip in the front run box.

I don't know if the other end of the conductor that exits the wall of the rear run box is the same one that comes into the wall of the front run box, or if it goes elsewhere and then comes to the front run box. The picture of the wiring diagram for the front run box suggests that the other end is in the rear run box. I can't quite make out the writing on the domestic fuse strip on that drawing. I think I see the step slide and the map lights fuses, and those would probably be on your passenger side arm rest, but I don't see the porch light listed. It could be on one of those feeds, but it doesn't indicate that to be the case.

Looking forward to what you learn when you replace that solenoid. I hope that takes care of it.

[Timaz]

They delivered the part late so I will change it out tonight.