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"007" · 11-08-2014, 05:09 AM

Here are a few links to help maybe for reference: #1--- # 2---- #3

DtBt · 11-08-2014, 05:31 AM

My current thought is a grounding issue. Check the back of the generator to see if you have 12v from "hot" lead to chassis ground and check the resistance from the GND lead to chassis ground. If the GND is bad (high resistance) follow the GND lead to the stud to the chassis. The slide pump ground may be on the same stud.

skypuppy · 11-09-2014, 12:49 AM

Electrical gremlins are the most difficult thing there is to diagnose. You might like to disconnect all main power cables, esp grounds, clean cable end AND mount point, then reconnect. Sometimes that makes the gremlins disappear. Lot of work, though.

robert brown · 11-09-2014, 03:51 AM

Thank you very much. I am in Maine and am readying to go out in the cold and do what you reccommend. My batteries are fine as I just put a light coat of grease (dielectric)on all surfaces and tighten all nut very tight. What I don't understand yet is where the two large cables go that leave the batteries but bypass the battery switch.

YC1 · 11-09-2014, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robert brown

Thank you very much. I am in Maine and am readying to go out in the cold and do what you reccommend. My batteries are fine as I just put a light coat of grease (dielectric)on all surfaces and tighten all nut very tight. What I don't understand yet is where the two large cables go that leave the batteries but bypass the battery switch.

Those likely go to the starter and possibly heater grid circuit if you have one,. No reason to run phenominal starting currents through a switch other than a starter solenoid designed to handle that.

DtBt · 11-09-2014, 06:42 AM

If your Dynasty (year?) is like my 05 Panther schematics there should be no cables bypassing House switch. Maybe you see the two cables from each 4 battery bank on one side of the switch if you have 8 batteries but my schematics show those cables daisy chained.. The other side of the switch cable should go to the terminal 3 in RRB. Terminal 7 is labelled as "Domestic Battery Hot" and goes through a Hi-Amp Fuse/CB before going to the FRB. I'm not sure what that is.
The Chassis batteries do have the alternator cable that is connected to the battery side of the switch. The other side of the switch goes to terminal 2 in RRB.
In any event you only have two systems down. Have you checked the RFB battery studs on the inside and outside of the box. From my schematics that is where the slide motor and generator gets its power from the same stud.

YC1 · 11-09-2014, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robert brown

The unit was new to me in April and since I was irritated with the battery cutoff swith inside the drivers door so I disconnected it months ago. The 12 v lights etc inside still work. Thanks...Bob

Reading through your earlier posts I am very curious how you "disconnected" the cutoff switch. IF you did not bypass the solenoid it is controlling your problem could still be the salesman circuit.

IF the solenoid is still in play it may be able to provide enough current to run a few lights but the heavy load of a slide could be impossible.

Another long forgotten issue are some splices made along the heavy wiring leading to the front panel. Some were not snapped together properly and some just became corroded. You would need two people to diagnose this because you need someone to push the slide buttons while you take measurements. If further tests indicate such a situation I will look up the links and post.