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Old 01-07-2017, 01:24 PM   #1
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Marker Lights keep blowing fuse

Good Day,

I am having some difficulty in correcting the issue of my Marker Lights blowing it's 20amp fuse. I have searched each marker light for a ground or short but so far, nothing appears to be abnormal.

I do recall the evening this occurred and earlier I had used my ICC Flasher as a courtesy to a trucker. Shortly after that, I was told all of my marker lights were INOP!! (Not good when still 50 miles from destination during the night).

I am NOT positive these two events are connected but could there be a connection with the ICC switch and my Marker Lights blowing a fuse?

Is there a fuse for the ICC switch?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Rusty and Kris Bliss
2004 Safari Cheetah
Somerville, TN
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Old 01-07-2017, 03:42 PM   #2
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This probably won't help if your still on the road, but placing fuses in-line on different areas may help locate the short. Meaning, say you find the wire that feeds the overhead cab lights...cut the positive wire and spice in a 15 amp fuse. Do the same for the rear running lights and for the rear overhead clearance lights. Now one of those 15 amp fuses will hopefully blow indicating which portion of harness is shorting. Once short is found and corrected you could either leave fuses in or even better, remove them and return harness to original configuration. If none of the 15 amp fuses blow but the 20 amp main fuse blows again suggests maybe problem in hazard switch or column somewhere. Good luck.
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Old 01-07-2017, 04:37 PM   #3
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Fugitive861

If I understand you correctly, by doing this we are isolating certain areas of the running (marker) lights.

Without violating the wiring harness, could I remove the lights in each receptacle and "one by one" add the lights back while checking the fuse after each light is replaced?

Now keep in mind.. electricity "ain't my bailiwick"... although I do know two things about it... You can't see it... but when you touch it... it hurts!! :-))

Do you know if there is a fuse or some type of interrupter for the ICC switch?

Thanks again for your help.
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Old 01-07-2017, 06:15 PM   #4
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You can certainly do what you described. The only advantage of adding the fuses is they will not only test the bulbs, but the harness, sockets, etc. I certainly understand your concern of "violating" the existing harness. Seems like it could be related to the icc switch as well. Does it pop immediately when turning on lights, or is it intermittent?
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:48 PM   #5
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All good idea's but before I started chopping
into your wiring harness may I suggest the following.

How a fuse blowing is telling n many cases.

With a dead short? the fuse will be blown/popped like and old flash bulb in the center in most cases.

A sign of extreme heat on the ends of the fuse and being melted? this is more telling of a long-term excessive load. Something that is not dead shorted but too much load over time for the fuse and the fuse melts and fails.

Remove the fuse that is blowing, then with the fuse removed for that circuit, jumper across the two fuse terminals with sealed beam head light and some long leads so that you can keep and eye on the sealed beam head light.

So now when jumpered across the fuse terminals with the fused removed with a sealed beam head light AND YOU PARKING LIGHTS ON
...... if there is No short?..... the sealed beam head light will NOT be lit.

What this gives you the ability to do is to start testing switches and shaking your related wiring and with you or someone watching the jumpered sealed beam head light at the at the fuse terminal ....because if and when you see that bulb flicker on or go full ON bright ......you have now found your short in that circuit.

Just and Idea
Happy Hunting
ps: IMO you want to use a sealed beam head light that will put a good load on the circuit to test and it only pulls @ 5 amps max
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Old 01-07-2017, 08:19 PM   #6
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Robroy,

You are correct in your assumption on how the fuse blows. It will immediately "flash" like a light bulb going off.

I understand the concept of jumping the two terminals of the fuse with a sealed beam light and then go searching for a short by shaking, moving or disturbing the receptacles or wiring harness.

But this is where I get lost.... excuse me for my lack of knowledge about electricity... if I jump the two terminals, am I not closing the circuit and the light should illuminate when I select the PARKING LIGHTS ON?

Thanks for your patience

Rusty

P.S. If I remember correctly, there really isn't a lot of room in the Fuse panel, but how do you put a jumper on each terminal of the Marker Lights?

RB
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Old 01-07-2017, 08:42 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oceancrosser View Post
Robroy,

You are correct in your assumption on how the fuse blows. It will immediately "flash" like a light bulb going off.

I understand the concept of jumping the two terminals of the fuse with a sealed beam light and then go searching for a short by shaking, moving or disturbing the receptacles or wiring harness.

But this is where I get lost.... excuse me for my lack of knowledge about electricity... if I jump the two terminals, am I not closing the circuit and the light should illuminate when I select the PARKING LIGHTS ON?

I didn't want to get into resistance details ..... but yes you are correct... but it will be DIM because of all the resistance of from the running light bulbs. Trust me when you hit the short to ground you will see the headlamp light up and it will be very bright

Thanks for your patience

Rusty

P.S. If I remember correctly, there really isn't a lot of room in the Fuse panel, but how do you put a jumper on each terminal of the Marker Lights?

You're not going to be putting a jumper on the lights themselves ....You going to remove the running light FUSE and install the jumpers one on each side of the fuse terminals. With a lack of room as you describe use long jumper wires ... that way you can have room to place your sealed headlamp anywhere you like.

RB
Happy Hunting
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Old 01-07-2017, 08:49 PM   #8
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I would check the switch. Remove the wires from the switch replace the fuse and then touch the wires together and if the lights still work it could be a short in the switch
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Old 01-07-2017, 10:26 PM   #9
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RobRoy,

Tomorrow the temp should be above 32 degrees and I will have a chance to "hunt" around.

I truly appreciate the guidance and will report my progress.

All the best,

Rusty and Kris
Somerville, TN
Safari Cheetah
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Old 01-14-2017, 07:38 PM   #10
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After about 5 hours of trying to eliminate certain areas you will always find the problem in the "last" place you look.

The problem of my marker lights blowing a fuse was caused by a problem in the switch itself. After "reseating" the wires on the switch, we no longer had a problem with the fuse blowing.

Thanks to all that helped with their suggestions, directions and instructions.

Safe travels.

Rusty
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