Monaco 12V Electrical Connectors

[rmcb]

Does anyone know what type electrical connectors are used in the "house" 12V wiring? They look like Molex but do not have the same pin configuration or retention feature. The connector shells are two piece and the pins are retained by 4 "fingers" that are locked into a groove in the pin once the two shell halves are pushed together. Also, the connectors are indexed with a "D" section molded into one or more of the male/female parts of the shell. I have attached a picture of one of the 2-pin connectors.

I have researched the internet and Molex catalog bu have not yet come across this type connector. I also have a call into NW RV Supply but have not yet called Monaco Tech Support. I have checked with several other sources but not found anyone who can identify them.

If anyone has the name/brand of these connectors and a source, I would sure appreciate you passing it on to me. I want to get a selection of M/F pins and 2, 3, & 4 pin shells in preparation for some wiring harnesses I want to assemble. I know I could just use Molex, but I would like to use connectors like OEM.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Roy

[H. Miller]

Roy,
If Digi-Key doesn't have it..... It doesn't exist. Lots of pics for comparison but it may require several days to go thru them all - but then, you're retired..

[MandG-Fun]

Roy,

Wish I had a good answer for you. I'm guessing there isn't a manufacturer p/n molded into the plastic. Best I can come up with is one of the big electrical component supply houses, Mouser. That is a link to their page with the search tool for the 21,994 automotive connectors that they carry. Like I said, wish I had a good answer.

Good luck with the search.

Glenn

PS: Hal, hope the girls are all doing well... and you too!

[ShapeShifter]

Check out the TE Connectivity Universal MATE-N-LOK II Series

Are they the connectors you want? They are available from DigiKey.

For example, 1-480698-0 looks like the two-pin connector in your picture. DigiKey Listing and DataSheet

It looks like that particular plug has a different contact retention method than the one in your picture. But looking through the series, it seems that some have the removable retainer you show.

Looking at Monaco wiring diagrams, most don't give the connector part numbers. But one page I found lists:

• 2 pin straight: conn 480698-0, term 350536-1
• 3 pin straight: conn 1-480701-0, term 350536-1
• 4 pin straight: conn 1-480702-0, term 350218-1
• 2x3 rectangular: conn 1-480705-0, term 350536-1
• 3x5 rectangular: conn 1-480711-0, term 350536-1

You probably have more research to do to find the exact connector you want, but hopefully this give you a good lead.

[Twomed]

Amp Pin, Mate-N-Lock II 12-10 Loose Form 0 770246-3 2 16601822 Amp Socket Mate-N-Lock II 12-10 Loose Form 0 770247-3 3 9387 Amp Socket Mate-N-Lock II 20-14 Loose Form 0 770251-3 4 9385 Amp Pin Mate-N-Lock II 20-14 .06 Loose Form 0 770250-1 5 2076C Amp Pin, Male 0 78-9090-93105 6 7248 Amp Socket, Female 0 78-9090-93802 7 4225 Amp Socket f/Terminal Packard Female 12-10 0 12124581-L 8 16614046 Amp Pin f/terminal Packard Male 12-10 0 12124587-L 9 581 Amp Pin, Male 0 S0-9090-22649 10 16619196 Socket, 12-10 Contact 0 640310-3AMP 11 16619197 Socket, 18-14 Contact 0 350919-3AMP

[Twomed]

16601805 Connector 2 - Wire Male 1 770017-1 EA 2 16601815 Connector 2 - Wire Female 1 770024-1 EA 3 16601806 Connector 3 - Wire Male 1 770018-1 EA 4 16601816 Connector 3 - Wire Female 1 770025-1 EA 5 16601807 Connector 4 - Wire Male 0 770019-1 6 16601817 Connector 4 - Wire Female 0 770026-1 7 16601808 Connector 6 - Wire Male 1 770020-1 EA 8 16601818 Connector 6 - Wire Female 1 770027-1 EA 9 16601809 Connector 9 - Wire Male 1 770021-1 EA 10 16601819 Connector 9 - Wire Female 1 770028-1 EA 11 16601810 Connector 12 - Wire Male 1 770022-1 EA 12 16601820 Connector 12 - Wire Female 1 770029-1 EA 13 16619202 Amp Connector, 3 Pin 1 1-480700-0 AMP EA 14 16619201 Amp Connector, 4 Pin 1 1-480702-0 AMP EA 15 16619200 Amp Connector, 5 Pin 1 1-480763-0 AMP EA 16 16619199 Amp Connector, 6 Pin 1 640585-1 AMP EA 17 16619198 Amp Connector, 8 Pin 0 640586-1 AMP 18 4006 Amp Plug 24 POS 206837-1 Size 23 0 78-9090-97123 19 4007 Amp Recept 24 POS 206838-1 Size 23 0 78-9090-58381 20 6738 Amp Recept 16 POS 207485-1 0 78-9090-93106 21 6737 Amp Plug 16 POS 207485-1 0 78-9090-93106

[Twomed]

01803825 Weather Pack, 1 Way Male Housing 0 EC5012 2 4452 Terminal Packard 1 Way Female 0 12015791 3 4227 Weather Pack, 2 Way Male Housing 0 12010973 4 4226 Terminal Packard 2 Way Female 0 12015792 5 4233 Weather Pack, 3 Way Male Housing 0 12010717 6 4230 Terminal Packard 3 Way Female 0 12015793 7 01803813 Weather Pack, 4 Way Male Housing 0 EC5024 8 01803814 Terminal Packard 4 Way Female 0 EC5024 9 9534 Weather Pack, 6 Way Housing 0 12010975 9537 Terminal Packard 6 Way Female 0 12015799 5687 Terminal Quick Connect 22-18 .187 female 0 EC2143


All of these are directly from the Monaco build sheets. Sorry the pictures won't copy. But the number should be searchable. They will at least get you in the ballpark.

[rmcb]

Thanks all for the responses.

I have searched Mouser, Digi-key, TE Connectivity, etc. and while I have found a couple of backshells that seem to match the "D" pin and socket indexing convention, all I have found so far use the "barbed" M/F pins.

I haven't found any so far that have the two-piece shell with the type pin retention that my coach uses. The TE Connectivity Mate-N-Lock II and the Molex MLX both look like they might mate up but use the barbed pins. Molex MLX literature says their connectors will mate with industry standard connectors.

Maybe I will just get some of and try them out. I suppose it won't matter what the pin retention is so long as the pins and shells mate up and are the right diameter. I know that small differences in pin or socket diameter can be significant for connectivity so I may need to mic them for comparison.

It would still be easier if I could get the exact same connector. I think I will get in touch with Monaco Tech support on Monday to see if they can provide the info. I also have a contact in Oregon who says he can try looking them up on "MDEX" which I think is the Monaco parts lookup.

Thanks again for the responses. I will run these leads down again to see if I have missed something. Once I get this mystery sorted out, I plan to post info and pictures so everyone will know what type connectors these are and where to get them.

Regards,

Roy

[rmcb]

Many thanks to Chuck (Twomed),

I have located and ordered some replacement pins and shells from Mouser Electronics (mouser.com). Here is the description and part numbers:

They are made by Tyco (now TE Connectivity) and are the Universal Mate-N-Lock Connectors. Here is a link to the catalog: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/550024.pdf

The pins are available in sizes for AWG 24-18, 20-14, and 12-10. Pin dia. is .086

AWG 20-14 Pins P/N 770250-1 $.027ea
AWG 20-14 Sockets P/N 770251-3 $0.30ea
AWG 12-10 Pins P/N 770246-3 $0.53ea
AWG 12-10 Sockets P/N 770247-3 $0.47ea

You can select the appropriate shells based on the number of circuits you need from the catalog page 183. Prices range from $.082-$1.12 ea. for 2, 3 & 4 circuit shells and are available for up to 15 circuits (now that's a fist full of wires). The pins are shown with part numbers on page 186. Mouser Electronics sells the pins and shells in minimum quantities of 1ea.

I don't think there is anything that someone on this forum doesn't know. Thanks again Chuck!!

I didn't post pictures because I posted a link to the catalog instead. More info.

Happy wiring!

Roy

[itdave]

Roy,
By your picture I see you were able to separate the two halves of the plug. I need to move a pin in the plug but don't know how to separate the plug to remove the pin. Can you tell me how you separated the plug.

[King Richard]

hopefully you will post the answer... I too have some pins to check and swap, and cannot disconnect.

[rmcb]

Dave, Richard,

On each side of the two-piece shell there is a flat tab on the rear half and a slot on the front half that it snaps into. You can see them in the photos I posted above.

You can take a flat blade screwdriver and pry up on the outer portion of the slot first on one side then the other to release the tabs and then pull the two halves apart. Once you do that, the pins pull out from the rear. The tabs and slots are a tight fit so you may have to fuss with it a little to get the tabs to release and the two halves to separate.

If you look on page 186 of the catalog I posted above you can see the tool that is used for this - Latch Disengaging Tool, P/N 58382-1. I suppose you could make up a tool that would work better than a screwdriver. You will notice that the tabs and slots are different sizes on each side of the shell, which ensures the two pieces can only go back together one way. So, if you make up a tool, it will have to be sized for the narrower slot.

Good luck!

Roy

[itdave]

Roy, Thanks for the info