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Old 08-27-2014, 07:38 PM   #15
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Flex in the one piece fiberglass roof is normal.

Eternabond is a great product for eliminating leaks.

Geocel Pro-Flex and Geocel 2300 are also great products for lapping around the devices attached to the roof.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 08-27-2014, 08:22 PM   #16
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As far as fixing roof leaks is concerned, I believe the best thing you can do is get up on that roof and go over every single thing up there that has caulking on it. Remove what caulking you have to. Re-caulk everything with Dicor self leveling caulk, use Eternabond where you think it will be an improvement. Check carefully for pin holes in the fiberglass.

Because the fiberglass roof sheet is a floating skin, pinched down where roof fixtures are fastened down, it can be subject to cracks. Check carefully for cracks in the fiberglass sheet that may have developed. I'm a fan of the GeoCell ProFlex line of caulking, but it may be easier to simply add Dicor self leveling caulk to the existing caulk. Use the ProFlex or Dicor or Eternabond as you think is best. After that, optionally, you could elect to paint the roof with one of the elastomeric type coatings that many companies are supplying. It really doesn't matter how it looks, no one really sees the roof except you. But you have to satisfy yourself that there's nothing up there that can leak.

If you have a TV antennae, check very carefully that it is not leaking. Some of them have one single little O ring on the shaft to seal out water. They sometimes leak into the roof, and the water can leak out somewhere else inside the coach.

Jim
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Old 08-27-2014, 08:34 PM   #17
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Great Info

Thanks for all the posts in response to my questions.

I still have the internal skylight riding in my toad as I wait for another rain event to occur. No real rain in the last week and my attempts w a hose have yielded no resulting leaks. Hopefully the repair I made to the skylight did the trick.

I will probably take Joes advice and go ahead and reseal EVERYTHING. I already have the roll of etrnabond and dacor. I used a whole tube resealing a crack in the caulk around the gray/black vent.

The suggestion on checking the solar panels is great. I have two panels on my roof and didn't look under the panels. I did bury all the mounting screws under another level of dacor.

I will ck the side wall/roof junction for any bumps. I didn't notice any last time but will search more diligently.

I cked the acs to make sure they were tightened down and they seem quite tight. Not sure if there is a maintenance life on the ac gaskets. My coach is just hitting 10 years and I have begun to notice the little things that occur with age. Lots of little plastic pieces have begun to fail, drawer catches, the door screen hold downs...

As for the roof not being attached, I was told that it was "floating". I was surprised by this thinking it should be solidly adhered with a glue or something. Most of the "bubbling" or flex occurs in the middle of the roof between the vent and the ac.

All in all I have few complaints and once again humbly thank the collective for their advice and consideration.

Roll on,
Bill
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:18 AM   #18
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We have a 2006 monaco the p/o must had a leak were the roof laps over the side at the rail were the awnings clip to.The problem is he used silicone all along the ridge even used silicone at the seams on side.We have not had a leak tell the other day water from the a/c started leaking in the light on the drivers side slide,foam was wet ,i thing it was running down the rail right were the slide meets the coach.The only thing i could do was use some more silicone at the roof rail.No problems since but worried about the silicone and future leaks.I have the light out for now to let dry. I guess i will just keep an eye on it.
We are in Cape Hatteras at the time ,but plan on being in Myrtle Beach on the 14th. May be get some help at the rally?
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Old 08-29-2014, 08:23 AM   #19
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We have a 2006 Monaco the p/o must had a leak were the roof laps over the side at the rail were the awnings clip to.The problem is he used silicone all along the ridge even used silicone at the seams on side.
I would remove ALL of the silicone with a product that I found at Lowe's for removing it. i can't remember the name but a staff member helped me find it.

I used it on the wood trim around the old NotSoCold fridge once it was removed. There was a lot of heavy black silicone still attached to the wood trim. It took some work but I worked at it a little at a time.

I would redo all of the seams with Geocel 2300. It comes in clear and white.

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Old 09-04-2014, 02:04 PM   #20
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The Search Continues

Well a couple days ago we received over an inch of rain here in DC. Sure enough the leak is back. So pretty sure it wasn't the sky light over the shower. So I checked under the solar panel as was suggested, no hole there so no leak. I did pull the refer vent cover off,(after first pulling the silicone caulk that was used as plugs in the vent cover divots for the screws). I saw that the sealant used there had cracked in a few spots so used a whole tube of Dacor around that entire vent and sealed the solar attachments with the remainder of the tube.

I had pulled the light and vents and speakers again. We had additional rain after I made the repair but no obvious signs of the leak. Maybe I got it this time....the saga continues.....

Bill
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Old 09-04-2014, 03:03 PM   #21
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Hey Folks,

The collective here is always so knowledgeable so a couple questions about my 2004 Monaco Windsor Roof.

We recently had 5 inches of rain in a 2 hr period and my coach appears to have sprung a leak. The exact location is a mystery because I had water in the back of the cabinet next to the shower and water dripping from the ceiling mounted kitchen light. The water appears to have moved along the metal supports in the roof and wicked along the foam padded ceiling. The coach only has water on the driver side and I think we may have been a little low on that side.

I removed the ceiling lights, the stereo speakers and the vents on the driver side, tracking the moisture. I also removed the shower skylight thinking that was the likely culprit. I sprayed the roof with water to simulate the rain but could not duplicate the leak.

I have recaulked, put fresh eternabond around the skylight and I am hoping for the best.

If anyone has some ideas on trying to track this leak I am open to suggestions.

Now the big question. I have not been on top of many RVs. When I walk on my roof, in places it feels like the fiberglass sheet is not attached to the underlying wood. It flexes and sort of pops up. How common is this? Is this delamination? Ignore it or seek a repair?

Thanks for the help.
Bill
Try looking at the Slide Awning to see if the rivets/screws are holding awning to the MH home body. The in/out of the slide sometimes will put pressure on one or more rivets on the rail holding the awning.

Ron
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Old 09-05-2014, 05:27 AM   #22
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As in the post above ,the slide awing is were i found my leak.I think? After my last leak that is were i traced it to and that is were i calked.Last night we had a hard rain and no leak,for now.
I need to get on the roof (2006 Monaco Diplomat) and clean some old calk fro equipment that was there from p/o.What should i use to seal the whole top front to back? It looks like the top is aluminum,not fiber glass.Should i just give it a good wash & wax job? Everything has fresh calk.
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Old 09-08-2014, 07:16 AM   #23
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You may want to take a minute and look at the air conditioners around the area of the base gasket as one possible source. We had one that compressed the gasket while bouncing on the roads, the 4 hold-down bolts loosened up because of that and the air conditioner leaked as a result. I just snugged up the bolts and all was well, but it sure took a while to find. Hope this may help, Happy Trails Bert
How does the cover come off on the a/c unit? Does it snap on?
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:23 AM   #24
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How does the cover come off on the a/c unit? Does it snap on?
On our Dyn the cover just snaps I but it would depend on what coach you have, and don't just snug the bolts up , they are supposed to be torqued to 40 to 45 INCH Lb also put a dab of thread lock on the bolts and they won't vibrate loose again.
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