Community Forums

Robin_M · 12-02-2016, 07:33 AM

Wishing you the very best in your fight, Dave.

And, Bill, best wishes to you as well, as you continue to recover and enjoy the road. You and I have been on this forum for about the same length of time, and I've learned a lot from your descriptive posts over the years.

cdinatl · 12-06-2016, 07:50 PM

Proud of ours!!!!

2008 Holiday Rambler PDQ Ambassador 360 ISC
2015 Jeep Rubicon
Blue Ox tow Patriot brake

eddie g · 12-07-2016, 07:40 PM

We are looking at a 2008 Diplomat SKQ and a 2011 Cayman PBQ. Love the 400 ISL, power hose and cord reels and power sun screens on the 2008. We like the floor plan, outside entertainment center and updated features of the 2011 but it has the 360hp cummins and no power hose or cord reals. Anyone have feedback feedback on these models?

Robin_M · 12-08-2016, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eddie g

... Anyone have feedback on these models?

We bought a 2007 diplomat new nine years ago. (Just traded it for 2017 Dip.) It has been a GREAT coach. Lots of upgrades over 2006 that carried into the 2008 model year. The SKQ floor plan, with the forward kitchen and large center bath, was very popular.

Personally, I'd prefer that choice over the newer Cayman made by Navistar, but in reality, I don't know a whole lot about the Navistar models. I do know that there are still tech reps around at the new REV Monaco, who still can offer very good customer support on the original Monaco coaches.

Rickndebw · 12-09-2016, 06:01 PM

Very interesting reading & reassuring. We're newbies and almost couldn't afford a DP. We ended up "spending" about 50 % more. We were looking at a gas model whose floor plan we loved. But we really wanted diesel and we got lucky and found a 2005 Knight. Going to have to modify the floor plan a little to accommodate our canine children, but so far so good. Seems to be very well made.

unpilot · 12-09-2016, 06:48 PM

Thanks to every one that posted...I love reading the pro's and con's of people who actually live and drive these machines.

On my 63 birthday (Sep 5th 2018) I will retire and hit the road.

I have been lurking these forums and looking at different RV's as much as I can.

The information gleaned from forums such as this really feeds my "habit"

ostendorff · 12-12-2016, 08:12 PM

I am considering a 2004 dynasty countess 42' garage kept with new tires, and 78,000 miles. Priced around $75k. Anyone think this it to high? Probably needs about $6-$7k worth of updates (which would include a new fridge).

Sandy Swede · 12-13-2016, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ostendorff

I am considering a 2004 dynasty countess 42' garage kept with new tires, and 78,000 miles. Priced around $75k. Anyone think this it to high? Probably needs about $6-$7k worth of updates (which would include a new fridge).

If in good condition, this sounds like a very good price. The Dynasty models I have seen on rv trader and rvt.com for 2003 and 2004 are all priced in the $90's. If it is the coach you want, it is an excellent price. Just my .02 cents worth having searched the Dynasty models prior to settling in the Newmar DS. Best of luck on your search.

zmotorsports · 12-13-2016, 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ostendorff

I am considering a 2004 dynasty countess 42' garage kept with new tires, and 78,000 miles. Priced around $75k. Anyone think this it to high? Probably needs about $6-$7k worth of updates (which would include a new fridge).

If it is in good condition body and mechanically that isn't a bad price at all. I sure as hell wouldn't let my 03 Dynasty go for that, and it is just a little 40 footer.

Mike.

RobbieH · 12-13-2016, 09:04 AM

Hello everyone, as some of you already know I'm new here. In reading this thread I learned a lot, and it also made me think of a lot of questions.

First, I know Safari is part of the Monaco line, but I don't know why. Was Safari a separate company when mine was built in 2005 then swallowed by Monaco at some point, or was it a separate line in the Monaco factory? This coach seems to be built extremely well, I have 106,000 miles and it has no squeaks or rattles going down the road. My previous (2014) RV was a rattle trap. The materials inside and out are all top-notch for the year it was made. The cabinetry is better than you see in homes. I know my friend's brand new Tiffin has more "bling", but it doesn't appear they used the same quality of materials.

I see some that say side radiator is better, but I saw some that said it's worse. When I was looking for our "new" coach, I was told that side radiator is a good thing. This was from another RV'er, who also happens to be a truck driver and maintains his own rigs. Which is it, better or worse?

Our rig has the Active Air suspension. I was told it's an option. We don't have a tag axle on ours, but this thing drives wonderfully. The day we bought it, I drove our RV to the lot to make the trade and fought the wind all the way there. On the way home, I could not believe how stable it was. I hated long trips in the other RV, lots of white knuckles, in this one I'm looking forward to road trips. Is the Active Air the reason it drives so well? I don't know if it matters, but we also have the Roadmaster chassis, which I was told makes a big difference.

I love the AquaHot for hot water, but I need to get it serviced since the coach heat part isn't working. Over on the RV Hydronic forum they say it's stuck check valves and I just happened to have the model that has the hardest to get to valves. It may be more than I want to tackle on my own until I get more familiar with the coach.

K7JV · 12-13-2016, 09:28 AM

First, sounds like a really nice coach!

As for the AquaHot, the company is still going strong, and service is available. On our '06 Dynasty, our zone that heats the bathroom (also the "stir" pump circuit) got progressively more finicky. Replaced the check valve. Not the problem. Turned out that the pump had a problem. These pumps use magnetic coupling between the motor and the impeller, rather than a shaft so no shaft seals are used. The pump would occasionally stall and fail to spin up when power was applied. Turning the zone off and back on would usually re-start it ok. Replaced the pump myself. Not a terrible job. All is now good.

If you're not getting heat in the bedroom, make sure the zone two mode on the rear thermostat is set to "Furnace", as it takes priority for both the zone one in the bedroom and the zone in the bathroom. If you're not getting heat in the front, make sure you have power to the front heat exchanger. Switch? Fuse?

If you are totally new to AquaHot heating, those are a couple of possible tripping point.

Enjoy that new coach! She's quite likely a true beauty!!

RobbieH · 12-13-2016, 09:46 AM

I'm totally new to AquaHot.

When I set the two zones to Furnace, the fans turn on, and I can hear the pumps in the basement. The lines are hot, but I was told there are some recirculating lines and that unless I'm sure I have the returns, that it means nothing that some of the lines are hot.

I don't get heat on either zone.

I had Engine Preheat on when I took this picture too, just to get all zones working.

I'm really enjoying the Monaco group on this forum. The Thor forum here is dead. It's more active on Good Sam's. And either way there are a lot more people talking and helping each other here than any of the Thor forums I've been on.

K7JV · 12-13-2016, 10:19 AM

Quick thoughts:

There are likely six hoses exiting the top of your AquaHot. Three are outflow and three are inflow, or returns. One pair goes to and from the heat exchangers in the front half of your coach. One pair goes to and from the bedroom. One pair goes to and from the bathroom and the basement heat exchanger, if you have one. Note that the pump that serves this third pair is also called the "stir pump". Any time the burner is fired, this pump operates to keep the reservoir from developing a serious hot-spot at the burner wall, and it is important that this circuit be functioning properly if you are firing your AquaHot with diesel. The bathroom heat exchanger does not give off heat, as the fan is not powered to blow the air, unless that zone happens to be calling for heat at that time.

The front zone is on its own thermostat and only involves one pair of those hoses. The two zones in the rear use the same thermostat, but you will have a separate sensor feeding that thermostat to control the bathroom, independently. It will be likely be a white "thing" mounted under the bath overhead cabinet.

There are only four types of devices involved in each of the three circuits. There is the control board that powers the pumps and the fans when heat is called for. Each of the three circuits have their own pump. That is one potential failure point. Each of the three circuits have their own check valve, just as the circuit exits the AquaHot unit. That is another potential failure point. Finally, each of the three circuits have their own heat exchanger(s) with enclosed fans to move the air.

It is pretty unlikely that, if the main unit is producing hot water, all three (I'm ignoring the engine heat circuit) zones would be inoperative. By personal experience, I learned that if you listen closely to the pumps when they are operated, one at a time, you may be able to tell if it is working properly. If the impeller is failing to spin up, the pump will sound like it is running somewhat faster than when it is working properly, as the motor will be spinning with no load on it. The check valve(s) may respond to tapping with a light hammer or other solid device. The heat exchangers only failure mode would be the failure of the fan to start and run.

Roger Burke or John Carrillo would be two potential sources of help, depending on what part of the country you are currently in. If you are quite handy and technical, there isn't any rocket-science in the AquaHots, and you can do most repairs yourself. If not, definitely seek professional service. These units are common enough any more that I would think most RV service facilities would be able to help you.

RobbieH · 12-13-2016, 11:25 AM

I have plenty of hot water, but no heat in front or rear. I don't know if there is a separate bathroom heater. My floor plan has the toilet on one side in its own room, and the shower and lavatory are on the other side out in the open.

There is some sort of heat exchanger where all my water and sewer valves and connectors are. There is a switch in the cabinet above the passenger seat that turns this heat on. Even when temps were in the 20's, no heat came out of it, so I'm assuming it is run from the AquaHot system and not receiving hot water, but it could be that it's electric strip heat and doesn't work.

You can just barely see the Cargo Heat in the bottom left of the first picture, and then I have a clear picture of it in the second.

My problem with tapping the check valves is they are buried in the back of the AquaHot according to Roger, since I have the AHE-100-03, which makes me nervous to even try. RV Hydronic Heater Forum

And no, that's not where I store my water hose. The previous owner left his there and I'm not using it.