Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Monaco Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-28-2021, 01:19 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,424
My 180 Degree Atwood Water Tank Solution

Disclaimer: I am not a plumber, I just pretend to be one in my spare time.
Disclaimer: I am not an electrician, I just pretend to be one in my spare time.
Disclaimer: 180 degree hot water will send you to the burn unit with lifelong disfiguring burns in less than one second.


Hi Folks!

I've been wanting to address the hot water side of the motorhome for some time now and finally got at it the other day. This necessitated making a new control system for the electric side and it worked out very well. A second Inkbird controller will also be installed for the gas side of the water heater.

This means I can set the desired running temperature and the cut-in temperature to within one degree. It also has integral alarms in the event that the controller fails 'closed'. Not shown in the pictures is that the high-temperature cut-out snap disk will be present when complete. They will be bumped up to 190 degrees F and rated for 30 amps. This will keep the native circuit breakers in the event of a controller failure. At that temperature the blow-off valve will not open but remains as a 'last-ditch' control for a runaway hot water heater.

The Inkbird controller is not able to switch 20 amps. I believe they are actually rated to 10 amps. Either way, they contain inexpensive Chinese relays that are known to fail closed. To address this, a separate 30 amp Siemens relay is used. This is a quality relay. As such, the controller itself now only uses .7 watts when idle (monitoring) and 4 watts when active. Given those low numbers even the stock Chinese relays should last forever.

To prevent major burns, or hot lips, a Cash-Acme mixing valve was installed. This valve has integral check valves, quality rubber washers with mesh screens to keep scale from interfering with the valve's operation, and, if the cold water supply fails it will immediately shutdown the hot side. Again, to prevent Major Burns or Hot Lips Additionally, this valve is very specifically chosen as it will operate properly with as little as 1.3 liters of water flow per minute......This is very important.

In the plumbing picture below (all white pipe ) there is a dedicated line on the hot side, before the mixing valve, that goes directly to the clothes washer. This means the washer/dryer will have access to straight 180 degree water to get those whites really white and to sterilize all items. The rest of the motorhome's hot water is controlled by the mixing valve.

The mixing valve is set at exactly 117.1 degrees. It appears to keep that temperature locked. The worst I've seen it operate is 117.5 and then it pulls it back to 117.1 - very impressive performance.

When you shower, or do dishes, you no longer use the cold water tap. You just turn on the hot water only and use that valve to set the volume. The temperature is kept steady by the mixing valve. So you don't have to ever 'set' the hot water. You just turn it on, wait a second, and jump in. Period. Perfect shower temperature every time.

Automatic temperature control means that, as your water tank temperature decreases from 180 you experience the same 117.1 degrees through your entire shower. If a guest is present, and they do not like 117.1 degrees they can still use the cold valve to lower the temperature. So you have the best of both worlds. But the key is this, 117.1 for your entire shower.

By being able to run the tank at 180 degrees, you can shower for a very long time at exactly 117.1 Once the new snap disks come in, and the second Inkbird is installed, the gas and electric side will come back on when the tank is at 179 degrees. See where I'm going with this? You jump in the shower with the tank at 180 and as soon as you start showering the gas and electric element come on. This makes for relatively endless hot water, exact temperature control, without user intervention, for your entire shower.

The stock 1400 watt heating element was replaced with a 2000 watt element giving an additional 600 watts. This means you need 20 amp service to run it. Turns out, the motorhome was pre-wired with 12/2 Romex - suitable for 20 amps. So, $20 later for the element, and $30 later for a new breaker, and $5 later for new direct connected wire (to prevent voltage drops) and presto - 2000 watts of heating power!

Does it use more power? No. Actually, it uses the same amount of power as the 1400 watt element - it just gets up to temperature faster, at which point it then shuts off.

Anyway, here's some pics of my solution. I am waiting for my snap disks, they had to come from Shanghai because I could not find 20 amp capable disks here. The ones that are coming are 30 amp rated ceramic units. At that point, the solution will more/less be done. Instead of an ECO shut-off of 180 they will be upped to 190. The controllers themselves will hold the temperature at 180.

It's worth noting that how I use the hot water is as important as the solution. I wake up, fire up gas and electric, and when at 180, have my shower. I then let the system return to 180...and shut it off for the rest of the day. Given that the tank is at 180, it will easily hold unless I need it again, such as when doing laundry.

Scale control will be addressed later today. It's worth noting that when you up the temperature of the tank to 180 scale increases in direct proportion to the increased temperature.

Anyway, this is my new boiler. It works well. I am shocked at how well that Cash-Acme mixing valve works. But then, I spent the extra $$ and research on that side because I knew how important it is. Other than the new control system, it is the heart of the system, so to speak.

PS, I blame some of this on Old Biscuit who helped me with so many of my Atwood/Norcold systems!

BTW, the new heating element was ~ $20 CAD, the Inkbird control system was ~$20 CAD, the Siemens relay was ~$30 CAD, the buss bar was ~$15 CAD, the mixing valve was ~$160 CAD, the 30 amp snap disks (5) were ~$10 USD and that sums up the brunt of it. Add in an extra ~$50 CAD for misc and away you go!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20210128_113447.jpg
Views:	21
Size:	379.9 KB
ID:	316114   Click image for larger version

Name:	20210128_113458.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	438.5 KB
ID:	316115  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20210128_113508.jpg
Views:	32
Size:	404.5 KB
ID:	316116   Click image for larger version

Name:	20210127_184621.jpg
Views:	27
Size:	331.4 KB
ID:	316117  

__________________
Bob Jones - 2000 Monaco Diplomat / ISC315 with Linnig Electromagnetic Clutch Fan
180 Degree Atwood Boiler...formerly Hot Water tank.
30km Range WiFi Solution
BobJones is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 01-28-2021, 01:30 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
96Bounder1st's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 876
Beautiful work.

My congratulations for a solution well done Bob.

Terry
__________________
2002 Monaco Windsor 40PKD. Marjorie 2.
2015 Equinox V6 Roadmaster tow setup
2019 Adventurer 24DS for the short trips. April, 2021
96Bounder1st is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2021, 01:39 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 16,927
Heck of an upgrade there Bob

Couple observations from an old boiler operator.....
1/2" PEX is rated for 100psi @180*F
180*F in water heater CAN increase pressures to 125+ psi......CAUTION!!!!

180*F in water heater can increase pressures high enough to cause T&P Relief Valve to WEEP ....yes they are rated to OPEN at 210*F/150 psi but at 125 psi they can start weeping

Higher initial temps in water heater can cause Air Pocket to become absorbed more frequently....then Pressures will REALLY increase

Adding an accumulator tank can help with pressure increases

Scaling up WILL increase with the higher temps......water softener??


Mixing Valves WILL CLOG due to scaling and then you get Luke Warm---COLD water only

Still a bit more engineering ---but you have taken a big step so finish it


Good Job!
__________________
Is it time for YOUR Medication or Mine?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor & NUWA 5vr
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
Old-Biscuit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2021, 03:41 PM   #4
YC1
Senior Member
 
YC1's Avatar


 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 9,143
Way beyond my pay grade for sure.

I would love to have a mixing valve in the shower that has a temp setting and readout. I am sure there is one somewhere. It only take a fraction of movement to change the comfortable range.
__________________
Myron & Deborah
08 HR Endeavor 40 SKQ
400 Isl, 400 HP/// Now 450 HP
2016 Ford F150 Limited V6 with Ready Brake
YC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2021, 04:51 PM   #5
Senior Member/RVM #90
 
MSHappyCampers's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Columbus, MS
Posts: 47,165
You guys boggle my mind!
__________________
Joe & Annette
Sometimes I sits and thinks, sometimes I just sits.....
2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT, 2013 Honda CRV AWD
MSHappyCampers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2021, 07:50 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,424
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Heck of an upgrade there Bob

Couple observations from an old boiler operator.....
Now that I have a boiler, can you get me in the union?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
1/2" PEX is rated for 100psi @180*F
180*F in water heater CAN increase pressures to 125+ psi......CAUTION!!!!
I am concerned about the pressures, especially since I have no clue what they are!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
180*F in water heater can increase pressures high enough to cause T&P Relief Valve to WEEP ....yes they are rated to OPEN at 210*F/150 psi but at 125 psi they can start weeping
This one is no issue, I checked it several times. I use that relief valve all the time when filling the water tank or flushing (to vent the air) so it never has any scale or blockage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Higher initial temps in water heater can cause Air Pocket to become absorbed more frequently....then Pressures will REALLY increase

Adding an accumulator tank can help with pressure increases
This sounds like good advice. How/where would this be installed? On the outlet of the tank above it? I did put a 5 gallon accumulator on the outlet of the water pump to keep the system pressurized and keep the pump from cycling. One of the smartest things I ever did. Are we talking about the same thing? Location? When I went to sleep last night the phrase that kept going through my mind was....pressure vessel....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Scaling up WILL increase with the higher temps......water softener??


Mixing Valves WILL CLOG due to scaling and then you get Luke Warm---COLD water only

Still a bit more engineering ---but you have taken a big step so finish it


Good Job!
Understood. The mixing valve has very nice fine mesh filter screens on both the hot & cold inlet but it is also field strippable and can be cleaned. I chose it for, among other things, that reason. In theory, if I can't get the scale under control, it is designed to be cleaned easily

Let's take a quick detour to talk about scale. Every six months or so I have been using a wand to clean the tank. When I installed the new 2000 watt element I had a big hole to look into. You would not believe what I saw, and I clean the tank religiously (see pics).

As a result of what I saw, I concluded that wand cleaning is largely worthless and pulled the tank. Again, this was at the stock 140f temperatures!

This cause me to research scale and, as it turns out, the hotter the boiler, the worse the scale. And people have actually made charts to show how much more scale, in pounds, you get at 180 !! So I knew scale was going to be an issue. I did not want to run a water softener as I don't really like the idea of salting the earth, so to speak.

So I did a lot of research on the effects of electromagnetic fields on scale buildup. Now, I realize that as an 'Old Biscuit' you may also be an 'Old School Biscuit' and not buy into it. But my research took me to Dow Corning, Gas plants, the US military, and petrochemical plants, among others. Plant managers implementing EM fields have saved fortunes in downtime for plants to clean out their towers and their pipes.

As such, I installed an EM field generator on the feed line (see pics) to the unit. Apparently what is does, in simple terms, is turn the scale into powder so that it does not stick to anything and flows out the pipe at the end. One user, in an RV application, had put a sediment filter on the outlet of his hot water tank to catch the scale. He used to have to empty it every 4 days. His findings? After one month it was still clean after installing an EM field generator. Many reviews from people in Phoenix, and other really hard water areas, that testified it fixed their capillary sprinkler systems and kept them from buying new fawcetts all the time due to scale rot.

Anyway, check out the pics to see my scale before...and I have to say, if anyone can prove/disprove the science, it will be me since I have scale. Lots of scale. I will be able to tell in 6 months if it works or not, on a factual basis. The no-quibble return policy is one year, and they honor it!

I now you run, or used to run, a water softener because, in my research, I ran across old posts from you on other sites A lot of people ditched their water softeners after installing an EM field generator.

Also, that Inkbird computer controller that costs about $15 USD? It would be very easy to use it to replace the controls on the Norcold, or any other fridge. Or...how about the furnace control? I highly recommend checking them out, their uses are endless......

But...to bring this back to what is important to me, right now, it's boiler pressure concerns and your suggestion of an accumulator. If you can elaborate on what to use, where it would go, whatever, it would be much appreciated.

After all, I can push a button on my new computer-controlled system and turn the temperature of the tank up to 200 in just a few seconds!

As always, your help is appreciated

BTW, did you notice how the plumbing on the mixing valve ultimately results in a load bearing structure that carries the weight of the mixing valve in all axis? I love engineering! !!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20201231_135039.jpg
Views:	20
Size:	459.3 KB
ID:	316151   Click image for larger version

Name:	20201231_132153.jpg
Views:	14
Size:	258.5 KB
ID:	316152  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20201231_125153.jpg
Views:	18
Size:	476.5 KB
ID:	316153   Click image for larger version

Name:	20210128_183044.jpg
Views:	23
Size:	252.3 KB
ID:	316154  

__________________
Bob Jones - 2000 Monaco Diplomat / ISC315 with Linnig Electromagnetic Clutch Fan
180 Degree Atwood Boiler...formerly Hot Water tank.
30km Range WiFi Solution
BobJones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2021, 09:06 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 16,927
AH RIGHT BOB!!!

You have an accumulator on Cold and that will work just fine...as you have already proven!! (No Weeping from T&P)
**Same place I would install
Mark it off as DONE

Softener....have a portable On-The-Go cause it used a box of table salt and required NO power AC or DC
**I use it to FILL my fresh water tank...cause I do NOT hookup City Water

I live in Central AZ and have an EM System on my supply line in S&B
**Yeah I'm old school but I do accept 'some' new school ways/means


As for that tank flushing
Atwood has a SMALL drain hole (1/2") and when you stick the 'wand' in thru the it most of the hole is blocked by the wand
So you can rinse the sides etc but no real FLUSHING until you pull wand out then it is just draining

I prefer a POWER FLUSH
Turn water off---remove drain plug
Turn water back ON and stand back........POWER FLUSH
*cold inlet dip tube points DOWN so incoming water under supply pressure will STIR up the crud on bottom and Flush it forcefully out that small drain hole



Heck of a job there BOB---Kudos



As for that License....
When I was a working stiff I had to obtain a 'Stationary Engineer License'
Funny...License was required to operate boilers in excess of 15 psi
*Course the boilers I operated were 3600 psi/1000*F and 2 billion Lbs Steam flow per hour

Hey for $550 I can get you the licensing exam but you would still need 3 yrs of OJB
*I think the Water Heater Project qualifies for 1 yr of OJB


Union Dues are 1st of each month or quarterly
UWUA OR IBEW
UWUA ---$26.88/month
IBEW ----$118.50/quarter

Sticker available....just 'wire' me the Dues
No checks/CC ----CASH accepted



All kidding aside-----
Le me know how that fine mesh screen on Mixing Valve works out
With the EM System I would not expect it to clog and WH Tank scaling should be minimal
*Element will still scale up but NOT much
__________________
Is it time for YOUR Medication or Mine?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor & NUWA 5vr
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
Old-Biscuit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2021, 09:09 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,424
Quote:
Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
Way beyond my pay grade for sure.

I would love to have a mixing valve in the shower that has a temp setting and readout. I am sure there is one somewhere. It only take a fraction of movement to change the comfortable range.
I could not install one in my shower - it is angled (the design is wrong) so I elected to just revamp the system. Believe it or not, it's not that hard or costly. I'm loving just turning on the hot to full blast and having perfect water every time

I did not know how it would function in practice, I knew how it *should* function by design, but it has exceeded all of my expectations. To do the 'pilot' project was a lot of research but to copy it is easy.

I also used to combat the 'fractional' change in valve and massive change in water temperature. No more. Those days are over. And good riddance to them
__________________
Bob Jones - 2000 Monaco Diplomat / ISC315 with Linnig Electromagnetic Clutch Fan
180 Degree Atwood Boiler...formerly Hot Water tank.
30km Range WiFi Solution
BobJones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2021, 10:04 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,424
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
AH RIGHT BOB!!!

You have an accumulator on Cold and that will work just fine...as you have already proven!! (No Weeping from T&P)
**Same place I would install
Mark it off as DONE

Softener....have a portable On-The-Go cause it used a box of table salt and required NO power AC or DC
**I use it to FILL my fresh water tank...cause I do NOT hookup City Water

I live in Central AZ and have an EM System on my supply line in S&B
**Yeah I'm old school but I do accept 'some' new school ways/means


As for that tank flushing
Atwood has a SMALL drain hole (1/2") and when you stick the 'wand' in thru the it most of the hole is blocked by the wand
So you can rinse the sides etc but no real FLUSHING until you pull wand out then it is just draining

I prefer a POWER FLUSH
Turn water off---remove drain plug
Turn water back ON and stand back........POWER FLUSH
*cold inlet dip tube points DOWN so incoming water under supply pressure will STIR up the crud on bottom and Flush it forcefully out that small drain hole



Heck of a job there BOB---Kudos



As for that License....
When I was a working stiff I had to obtain a 'Stationary Engineer License'
Funny...License was required to operate boilers in excess of 15 psi
*Course the boilers I operated were 3600 psi/1000*F and 2 billion Lbs Steam flow per hour

Hey for $550 I can get you the licensing exam but you would still need 3 yrs of OJB
*I think the Water Heater Project qualifies for 1 yr of OJB


Union Dues are 1st of each month or quarterly
UWUA OR IBEW
UWUA ---$26.88/month
IBEW ----$118.50/quarter

Sticker available....just 'wire' me the Dues
No checks/CC ----CASH accepted



All kidding aside-----
Le me know how that fine mesh screen on Mixing Valve works out
With the EM System I would not expect it to clog and WH Tank scaling should be minimal
*Element will still scale up but NOT much
Priceless! I was concerned that perhaps I had offended you because of my questions on the accumulator. I'm just laughing right now because after I quickly read your reply I had a shower. My best ideas come to me in the shower and the tank was @180 so....

It then came to me that what you are really saying is something I did not understand. Remember, I'm not actually a plumber! I was laboring under the assumption that the tank was more/less closed and that the pressure in the tank HAD to go forward, into the RV, from the tank forward.

While I was in the shower, I realized that, because the cold inlet in the tank is exposed directly to the tank pressure, the pressure in the tank would actually back-feed down into my accumulator which is next to my wet bay!

As you can guess, this was revelatory to me So...this is why the blow off valve is not weeping. The pressure in the hot water tank is being evenly distributed to the whole water system. Bear in mind, to me, the accumulator was installed for only these reasons, one, to keep the lights from flickering and giving me a seizure with the water pump cycling on & off so fast. The second benefit was that it continues to give me pressure even when the water is totally off - for about two minutes or more. To me, that was all it was. I didn't even realize the second benefit until it was installed!

Like I said at the outset, I am not actually a plumber. But now, thanks to your reply, I reached another level of understanding. If, for argument's sake, that tank is at 100 PSI then that pressure will evenly distribute right back down to the accumulator. The entire system. Although, I wonder if that pressure would make it past the mixing valve?

Either way, it was not my intention to offend, I just, literally, didn't get it.

I like the powerflush! And it makes perfect sense. But....I am hoping the EM field generator will allow me to spend more time in the shower and less time flushing!

Unfortunately, I'm now 51 and can't learn a new trade But, to be serious, I really enjoyed this plumbing venture. It was born out of our talks over the years and I could see a solution jelling but it was not until I grabbed that Inkbird controller and had it in my hands that the gears really started to to turn That was when I realized I had the power and could take control

I have a second controller sitting on my desk and it's going to get mounted under the electric one with the idea that I will also dial in the gas side to come on at a certain temp and bring it up to 180.

Since I shut off the hot water tank when I'm done, this will likely be turning on at 177 and off at 180. That way, when I'm in the shower, or doing laundry, it will bring up both gas and electric almost instantly. This goes directly to duration. The tank is going to fight like hell against my draw on it. In the end, I suspect I will win the war, but I will likely look like a prune when the battle is over
__________________
Bob Jones - 2000 Monaco Diplomat / ISC315 with Linnig Electromagnetic Clutch Fan
180 Degree Atwood Boiler...formerly Hot Water tank.
30km Range WiFi Solution
BobJones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2021, 10:29 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
153stars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Braidwood Il.
Posts: 3,410
Nice work you may find you can dial back from 180f a bit. Nice thing about having the display. Not sure if that controller has alarms and 2nd set of contacts but could also be set up as redundant hi/hi cutout and/or alarm as well . You have the backup snap disc now. One suggestion just to be safe is to remove a temp probe wire make sure it fails high to open, most controllers will.
I have suggested similar set up for basement heat, adds remote monitoring and hi/low alarms on select controllers and could easily add one relay to 12v alarm for loss of 120v.
__________________
95 Monaco Crown Royale
M11 400hp, 4060 trans.
Aquahot, Generac Guardian7.5k
153stars is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2021, 11:40 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,424
Yes, it has alarms if it misses the high cut out point and it is a dual controller (heat and cooling). It even has a configurable compressor startup delay. It's really quite impressive and the fact it's $15 is remarkable.

I ran the temperature sensor right next to the OE snap disks. According to the snap disks the sensor was reading too low. I then tested the sensor against the actual water temperature. What is really cool is that you can calibrate the sensor. So, in my case, I didn't know if the sensor was off or if it was the sensor location. No matter, I just calibrated the sensor to the water temperature at the tap! Instant accuracy.

I haven't tested what it does when the sensor is disconnected but many people reported that when the relays fail, they fail closed. This is the reason I used the Siemens relay for switching the 20 amps, that way the stock relays are doing little to no work at all. Apparently, the lifespan of the stock relays is directly related to how much power you put through them. I figured the smart move was to get the German relay to do all the heavy lifting.

When the 30 amp snap disks arrive then one will be placed on each side (gas and electric). That will restore OE safety, albeit, at 190f instead of 180f to give me some leeway for temperature control.

I can already see a LOT of motorhome uses for these Inkbird devices. One could easily control the heating elements in the Norcold fridge. Same thing with the A/C units. Including compressor delay. Another use could be a temperature controlled block heater. How about a temperature controlled wet bay? Heated floors? It goes on and on.

If you go up to $49.95 CAD you can have a PID controller from the same company. That's powerful.

It's very interesting being able to watch the display. So you can see just how low you bring the tank down when doing laundry and you can also see how fast it comes back. You can see how much the gas adds to recovery rate. I'm wondering if I can use the display to fine tune the shutter on the gas side. But when you can watch the actual rate of rise and decrease, it gives you a good idea what uses hot water. For instance, washing laundry brings it down fast. Dishes use a lot.
__________________
Bob Jones - 2000 Monaco Diplomat / ISC315 with Linnig Electromagnetic Clutch Fan
180 Degree Atwood Boiler...formerly Hot Water tank.
30km Range WiFi Solution
BobJones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2021, 12:10 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: America's Seaplane City.
Posts: 472
I used an Inkbird controller on a Dometic gas fridge in a Roadtrec that we sold.

The fridge was one of those that did not have the thermostat buttons. The issue that I had with that fridge was over cooling to the point of freezing things in the regular fridge area. I had seen as low as 27*.

I wired up the Inkbird to shut down the whole fridge electrical system. Set a one degree swing with a set point of 33*.

It worked perfectly. No more leaving the door open for a while or shutting it off for 2-3 hours and also setting a timer so I wouldn't forget.
__________________
1998 Safari Trek 2480.
'15 Kawasaki Versys650LT, well farkled
Mid Flowriduh
SteveJ. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2021, 12:24 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,424
Nice! I like that solution

I'm still amazed at just what can be gleaned when you can see real-time accurate tank temps. For instance, I'm just doing laundry. I was assuming because I'm direct feeding the washer it's 180f.

After watching the display, it starts at 180f and by the time the washer is filled it's dropped to about 110 ! So, if my thinking is correct,

180-110=70 degree difference / 2 = 35 so the actual water temp in the washer is probably something like 145f.

When I think of that, then just imagine if the system were running at the stock 140f. The actual wash temperature on hot would likely be a measly 105f !!!

This brings me back to needing those snap disks for the gas side that are set to 180. As soon as the temp drops on electric by 1.1 degrees the element comes on. But right now the gas is not coming on until 140. If it came on at 179 (or so) then the actual wash temperature could be considerably higher. The nice thing about the display is that as soon as the 180 disk is in the gas side I can do another load and watch the controller to see what the start temp and end temp is and extrapolate the actual median temperature in the washer.

It's amazing what you can learn when you can 'see'.
__________________
Bob Jones - 2000 Monaco Diplomat / ISC315 with Linnig Electromagnetic Clutch Fan
180 Degree Atwood Boiler...formerly Hot Water tank.
30km Range WiFi Solution
BobJones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2021, 01:19 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Mile Marker 42's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: S. California
Posts: 1,042
Nice Bob. Definitely over my pay grade. Interesting reading. Reminded me of when I spent a few years working in the coffee industry in San Diego CA. Home to seriously hard water. I use to overhaul expensive espresso machines and we had 1 in the shop that was less than a year old. Once I got the heating element out of it, you could see the boiler was full of scale. The amount of scale in that machine for being less than a year old was mind blowing. I used to strip these machines down and acid (muratic) bath all the parts for 2 days. Then re-install. Interestingly enough, we have never had a single issue with our water heater in our coach. We run it on electric and the 4 of us can take a shower back, to back to back to back with about 10 mins in between each person, and it performs perfectly. Has been that way for the 6 years we've owned her. I'm not looking to do any projects on ours, but I'm curious about the digital display you installed. Got any links to it? Thanks in advance. Cheers.
__________________
2003 Monaco Knight 36ft- 315 ISC
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 Diesel 4x4
2- 2013 Yamaha VXR's 70MPH+ on aluminum trailer
Mile Marker 42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
atwood, tank, water



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Replace old Atwood Water Heater With New Atwood Water Heater GlennLever RV Systems & Appliances 2 07-14-2015 10:41 AM
180 degree thermostat. FreshAir Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 103 08-08-2012 02:22 AM
180 Degree Thermostat - Fan Shroud Install kennersonf Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 9 07-08-2012 02:02 PM
180 degree steel valve extension Jack R Class A Motorhome Discussions 7 06-07-2009 11:38 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.