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Old 06-27-2020, 11:18 PM   #1
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My 1999 Monaco Signature has an electric issue

My 1999 Monaco Signature has an electric issue and I am not an electrical guy please help. My wife and I were at a campground for the last five days and plugged into 50amp shore power. Yesterday my wife siad That we had no power to the florecent lights and the air conditioning but the tv and microwave oven and the outlets worked. So I proceeded to investigate and found that the waterpump the aquahot the bathroom and bedroom exhaust fans and lights were also not working. The main control panel for checking water levels propane and battery charge was also not working. I checked the breakers on the panels and all were good none had tripped I fired up the generater and still no difference so I uplugged from shore power and came home. I went out today and went to looking again and when I reset all the breakers nothing worked at all so I fired up the genny and shut it off after I heard it switch and restarted a couple of evolutions and the tv,microwave,refridgerator, and non florecent lights and outlets are all working but as before nothing else. Why would some things work and others not? Any Ideas are very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance Les Birch
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Old 06-27-2020, 11:22 PM   #2
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Sounds like a 12 volt issue. Did you bump the battery disconnect to the off position ?
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Old 06-28-2020, 08:50 AM   #3
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I agree with "Twinboat". Check to see if you may have bumped the switch by your entry door that turns off most of the 12 volt "house" systems. It may be a rocker switch that you just need to bump to turn it on and bump to turn it off. Let us know what you find.
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Old 06-28-2020, 10:45 AM   #4
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The answers above.....Your air cond. uses 12v control power as well as the rest of what you were missing. Switch powers / pulls in a solenoid , they do occasionally fail . Two small wires one 12+ from switch other 12- grounded. The bigger cables 12+from house batts , the other output 12+ . If you connect those two together on either lug you will bypass the solenoid if it failed , just dont ground it out.
Not to be condescending. If you have a MH I would suggest trying to gain some electrical knowledge and safe testing procedures for 120 v AC and 12v dc systems. It's the most often problem on every coach. There are a lot of u tube vids on how to use a multimeter ,read others posts here to gain some. With
12 v issues always suspect bad grounds or poor connections.
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Old 06-28-2020, 11:26 AM   #5
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Hi Les,

As the others have mentioned all ready, sounds very much like the Battery Cutoff switch in the stairwell. If it was bumped, then an easy fix to turn back on.

If it turns out the solenoids have gone bad, this is a common issue. In fact we just replaced our Battery Cutoff solenoids yesterday. Here is a write up of the replacement process on our Mods/Upgrades thread: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/upg...ml#post5323173

Many owners, choose to simply bypass the solenoids. This is also a fine solution, if done correctly and the functionality is not required.

All the best,
Josh
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Old 06-28-2020, 12:09 PM   #6
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My 1999 Monaco Signature has an electric issue

Thanks Guys
The battery cutoff switch is on and operational. That was one of the checks I made when still at the camp site. I replaced the two solenoids a while back. Is it possible for them to fail that fast? Are the thin lite florescent lights run on 12volt or 110volt? Also wondering if the transfer switch might be malfunctioning as it almost seems like the circuits that are not working are separated or independent for example the air conditioners, bathroom exhaust fans, toilet flush and water pump, florescent lights all not working and all the outlets the television/satellite system, microwave, the side lights and overhead lights bulb type and the fridge all work. I will look at bypassing the solenoids to test them. I am getting a crash course on this coaches systems I just rebuilt the aquahot system new tank and burner why not go to the electrical system now and next will be the hydraulics and leveling system. That's the joy of owning a 21 year old coach I guess
Thanks Les
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Old 06-28-2020, 12:51 PM   #7
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As mentioned, you must have reliable 12 volts for many things to function:

Grab a voltmeter and go to your battery banks. Take some pictures, print them out, use a pencil to write on them. Pencil because the measurements will change when you get things going.

The 12 volts is probably down far to low and that goes backward toward your 110 circuit/s . The inverter/converter charges those batteries.

If you do NOT have 110 to the input of the converter/charger, you will not have 12 volts to charge the batteries and run the lights/ air conditioner circuit boards/ and many other functions.

If you do not find 110 volts at the input to the converter, go to your breaker panel inside and cycle any breakers associated with it.

IF you feel comfortable and are sure of which breaker supplies that voltage to charger/inverter/converter (interchangeable type references), take the panel face off and see if you have voltage on that wire.

If not, and this may be an emergency for you, find a breaker that does have power that is not often used. For example, you may have a block heater breaker.

After turning off the main breakers and unplugging from shoreline, move the wire that is missing the voltage and the breaker if they are not the same size.

Power back up carefully and then measure the battery voltages again. If they are low it may take some time to reach a decent level but you should see it rising.

IF this procedure gets you up and running you can work backward towards your transfer switch. One leg could be bad but you should find more than one breaker without power of course.

Hope I didn't muddy the waters for you.
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Old 06-28-2020, 02:48 PM   #8
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Les, Good suggestions by above post. I have a 98 Executive with pretty much the same electrical system you have. Two years ago I had the same problem. I lost all 12 volt systems. I already had the salesman solenoid bypassed but found with a meter I was not getting 12 volts to the bypass from the coach batteries. I check the cutoff switch in the battery compartment and it was good. From there the power goes back to the solenoid. It was not getting there. Below that solenoid panel and a bit to the right is a connector that the power goes thru. They put a insulated rod connection thru a support member running along the wall below the compartment. The connections on both sides of the rod got dirty and crusted over and were no longer making good contact. I disconnected the batteries and took the whole thing apart and cleaned it up and re-installed it. No more problems with 12 volt systems for the last two years. A dc meter is kind of a must have keeping one of these older guys running. 290,000 miles on mine now and still going strong.

Good luck,Larry
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Old 06-28-2020, 05:39 PM   #9
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If you own an RV, especially one so complicated, you need to be handy with a voltmeter, tool box, and a check book. Often all three at the same time.

Either a mobile rv tech or grab a meter. Post a picture of the meter and we can even help with which position to put the buttons.

A mobile tech should be able to breeze through the thing in an hour but I would expect to pay at least two hours labor. Sometimes it takes an expert.
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Old 06-28-2020, 05:45 PM   #10
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I had the exact same problem! it was the battery disconnect relay. I bypassed it and ordered a new one, which came in but I haven't gotten around to installing it yet!
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Old 07-06-2020, 11:11 AM   #11
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Ok guys I got myself a multimeter checked my house batteries and both batteries were putting ample voltage to the battery compartment kill switch so I removed the cover and checked the backside on the cables to verify the switch was working and it was. I went to breaker boxes in the bedroom found that one had power the other did not I pulled the cover on the breaker panel that had the components that were not working which happened to be all the breakers in the box and probed the main supply into it and no power so I went to the transfer box and I am not sure what I am doing here so help me out. If I had one switch that was not working on shore or gen power would that be why I have no power in thi box and if so how do I check it? I have pictures of the panel,transfer switch and covers plus A surg protector that has two green lights that are showing as powered and a fualt light that is not. I also noticed a small resistor that looks to be a little darker than the one next to it not sure if it is bad. I hope this makes sense. I appreciate the help.
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Old 07-06-2020, 11:46 AM   #12
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Not sure how you jumped from 12 volt checking to 120 volt breakers, but if the breakers that don't have 120 volt power are inverter powered breakers, they will be a breaker or 2 on the inverter itself.

You need to look at all sides of the
Inverter/ charger to find them.
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Old 07-06-2020, 04:37 PM   #13
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Not that this is your problem, but on mine,, when some of the 120v side don't work, there is a small 6x6 box next to the breaker panel. those are the switching relays to feed power to the main circuit panel, mine are starting to go bad. sometimes if they don't feed power after disconnecting main power a few times, then I'll "remove power first" cycle the contactors a few times with a pencil eraser, then try again, remember this is high voltage, you can be shocked, might be best to consult an electrician,
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