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Playtime III · 03-08-2013, 08:58 AM

I do not like the location of the 32" TV over the co-pilot's head. Besides, the TV does not have a digital tuner so I cannot receive ANT signals. So I want to move and replace the main TV.

The PO had the curbside sofa removed and replaced with drawers and a countertop to create a desk. We love the extra storage so we want to keep it. [link to pix] vp2752501_12_large.jpg Photo by gillfrank | Photobucket

I want to install a 1350w fireplace in the "desk's" knee area and a TV on the countertop. The cabinet on the left end of the countertop has already been removed. I found cut romex cable behind the desk so I'm guessing the PO ran an "extension" cord to the receptacle in the overhead and someone removed it as it was not done correctly.

I'm thinking the TV, FP, and other later stuff (Blueray) would be too much draw on the circuit in the overhead cabinet. I'm also guessing this is the same circuit as the kitchen (toaster, coffemaker, etc.) So, I probably need a separate circuit. Since I have a HydroHot system, the breaker box has a water heater circuit breaker (switched off) that appears to be available.

Were might I find the end of this circuit? Since the Propane/Electric WH would need to be vented, I ASSUME it would be near the exterior sidewall (Curbside or Roadside). In a bay?

Dutch Star Don · 03-08-2013, 11:44 AM

Your post is a little confusing. You said you found cut Romex behind the desk, why aren't you using this. Put a meter on it and start turning off breakers and see what else is on that circuit.

You have the extra circuit that is turned off, did you pull the circuit breaker cover and see if there is any wiring actually attached to that circuit?

It will take a little work, but if you can't use the Romex in the wall, run some new wiring to the circuit breakers. Running the wire into the slide would be the most difficult, but from there you can run the wire in plastic/flexible conduit along the frame and back to the circuit breaker cabinet.

Robi.1014 · 03-08-2013, 12:18 PM

Playtime,
By your photo, I see that the desk is in the same slide as the kitchen. On my rig, I wanted to use a space-heater. But available receptacles in the kitchen were on the same 15A breaker/circuit as the rest of my rig (the breaker being fed from/through the Inverter). But the microwave was on the other 15A breaker (of the Inverter)....and was virtually unused except when the microwave was actually in use.

So I tapped into the microwave circuit to create my new receptable (for use with space heater). I've cautioned DW that this circuit is powered by the Inverter when we're not attached to shore power (or running the generator)....and that running a space heater using the Inverter (i.e., the house batteries) is to be avoided. She's good with that.

Point is: Your "fireplace" heater is similar to my space-heater. Ease of access to the mostly-unused microwave circuit ruled the day for me.

Playtime III · 03-09-2013, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diplomat Don

Your post is a little confusing. You said you found cut Romex behind the desk, why aren't you using this. Put a meter on it and start turning off breakers and see what else is on that circuit.

The romex was cut level with the countertop and flush with the knee space side wall. So it was only behind the left drawer unit. I'm guessing the PO used romex from the upper cabinet to the knee space for a receptacle for a computer CPU. Since I will be pulling more Amp I do not think this is an option for me. Thanks.

I have not yet pulled the cover off of the breaker panel to see if the WH is actually wired.

The microwave is an option but I'd rather pull a new circuit to prevent accidental dual use (micro and FP).

Playtime III · 03-10-2013, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diplomat Don

You have the extra circuit that is turned off, did you pull the circuit breaker cover and see if there is any wiring actually attached to that circuit?

I pulled the panel cover and it is wired. It is wired to a circuit boad terminal in the panel box labeled "CB4" and the adjacient terminal is labeled "Relay". I'm guessing this is the Magnum's relay board to shunt items when connected to less than 50A. Other breakers are ran to this board as well (AC1, AC3, Washer, etc.). The Relay side is connected to romex...now to find the other end....

Playtime III · 03-22-2013, 05:47 PM

This was a little more complicated than I had hoped. The electric fireplace draws in cool air from the top so I had to make a faceplate/grill. The knee area of the desk had a 5x5 hole in the lower rear corner. That leads to round grill on the edge of the kitchen cabinet. I believe it is an air intake for the hydrohot vent under the kitchen cabinets. So I made a base for the fireplace and ran duct from the front to the cabinet grill. The electric was not easy either. I could not find the water heater circuit so I ran new 12/2 romex along the wall, behind the kitchen cabinets, around to the plumbing chase to the half bath and then behind the bed. Under the bed I found a 6x6 J box with only one circuit (bedroom according to the service panel) and I got lucky as it is not on an Inverter circuit.

Les Stallings · 03-23-2013, 11:41 AM

Does your HydroHot system have an electric heating element in addition to the diesel heating option??

If so, the circuit breaker that you saw labeled "Water Heater" may be the power to the electric heating element in the HydroHot system.

Do you have any other circuit breakers for the HydroHot?

I have the AquaHot system and I can run it on electric, diesel, or both. I have a circuit breaker for it and it needs to be on for the electric only function to work.

Playtime III · 03-23-2013, 12:55 PM

My HH does have an electric element. On the systems' panel I have (3) HH switches (Diesel, Electric and Engine Preheat). With the "Water Heater" breaker in the service panel off, I can still switch on the HH 'Electric' switch and it will illuminate. The HH electric controller in the bay also illuminates the Electric Heating Element Status led. As such, I assume it is a different circuit but since I have not tested the 110v HH feed I am not positive.

I do not have a separate breaker for the HH.

Les Stallings · 03-23-2013, 01:00 PM

I mentioned this since they usually don't put a breaker in the panel if you don't need it.

Most of the stuff you mentioned that lights up has to do with the control circuit, not actual power to the heating element. Since the heating element will pull around 12 amps, it seems like Monaco would have a separate breaker for it. They do on mine.

nodine · 03-23-2013, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Playtime III

My HH does have an electric element. On the systems' panel I have (3) HH switches (Diesel, Electric and Engine Preheat). With the "Water Heater" breaker in the service panel off, I can still switch on the HH 'Electric' switch and it will illuminate. The HH electric controller in the bay also illuminates the Electric Heating Element Status led. As such, I assume it is a different circuit but since I have not tested the 110v HH feed I am not positive.

I do not have a separate breaker for the HH.

The indicator lights are most likely powered by 12VDC. You need to actually try to produce heat to verify that the electrical portion of your HydroHot system is working.

Bob

Playtime III · 03-26-2013, 02:45 PM

I have to quit making ASSUMPTIONS on my coach.
I left the water heater circuit breaker off and fired up the Genny. When I got power to my 110v appliances I switched on the Hydro Hot Electric Element. It glowed green so I went to the controller and verified the Electric Heating Element Status LED was green. I then took my non-contact tester and swiped the romex lead to the HH unit. Nada. I turned the breaker on and swiped the lead again; light and tone!

UGH. No wonder the service techs charge $180/hr.

Les Stallings · 03-26-2013, 03:14 PM

Forgetaboutit!

The collective wisdom of the group helps us all out.

Just remember that most of your control circuits are 12 Volt, even the ones that control 120 volt things. The green lights just tell you what the control circuit wants, not if it is actually on. Think about your wall thermostats. Just because they say air conditioning does not mean the roof AC are on, especially if the breaker is tripped!! <smile>