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Old 09-04-2020, 07:41 PM   #29
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Need a little help with my turbo

Lol Iím not sure why bigD9 is getting the credit when the first reply to your original post was from me suggesting it could be your exhaust brake sticking.
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Old 09-05-2020, 06:04 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_M View Post
Lol Iím not sure why bigD9 is getting the credit when the first reply to your original post was from me suggesting it could be your exhaust brake sticking.
LOL. Yup, you got it first.
But you didn't have enough spacing in your paragraph to highlight your suggestions. It's all in the presentation
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Old 09-06-2020, 12:06 PM   #31
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After all the dust settled, I still developed the problem with the black smoke. It was because I left my Pac Brake on all the time, which I discovered myself after spending so much $$$ at the shop. Once I turned it off, all was good. Now I only use it when actually needing it.

Thanks again for all your help folks.
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Old 09-06-2020, 12:08 PM   #32
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And yes Rob, you were the first to offer the correct info, however BigD gets the kudos because his presentation was so much clearer
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Old 09-06-2020, 12:26 PM   #33
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Interesting - $8,000+ to not fix the turbo - ?

While out West this Summer I also had a turbo Issue - when My Mechanic, CJ's Performance Diesel in Vernal, Utah assessed the issue he just dove in and reattached it - it had lost three of the four Bolts - no Gasket and basically made going up a hill a Big issue but not nearly as big an issue as going Down as the Turbo is also part of the "Smart " braking System.

Replaced all three bolts - New gasket - changed the Fan Hydraulic oil and Filter - greased the entire coach and inspected it to be sure it was good to go..

Put it on the computer to see what it said - then fixed the water in fuel relay.

COuple other things but I got out of there for $608.00 for five hours of work - I always look for a good reliable mechanic - talk with them then make an appointment - drove by the local Cummins shop - noone was working - Cj had a dozen trucks in the yard - shop was clean and they were organized and way more than fair - had used him a couple weeks earlier to replace the Alternator - $448 - yes that included the alternator.

So support your local Shops - find the guys the Locals use and you might just be surprised at the Level of service and the fairer Price.

JMHO,
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Old 09-06-2020, 01:05 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monacojim View Post
After all the dust settled, I still developed the problem with the black smoke. It was because I left my Pac Brake on all the time, which I discovered myself after spending so much $$$ at the shop. Once I turned it off, all was good. Now I only use it when actually needing it.

Thanks again for all your help folks.
I respectfully disagree with that diagnosis. The Pacbrake , even if left on all the time, does not activate unless certain conditions are met. The most common conditions would be switch on, cruise control off and coasting with or without the service brake being used. There are other ways the Pacbrake can be programed, but this is the most common. Many operators leave their exhaust brake on all the time, and a few of us only turn it on when we need it. It's just a personal decision.

It's just my WAG, but lack of proper Pacbrake lubrication and/or lack of use froze the Pacbrake valve in the shut position, thus cutting off the flow of exhaust gases. The Pacbrake should be lubricated as per the attached drawing and associated file.

NOTE: I hope my disagreeing with the OP doesn't cost me any Atta Boys I may have received for the correct answer. I will share whatever reward I receive with others that also get the answer correct and post before me.
Attached Thumbnails
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Name:	PacBrake-Maintenance.png
Views:	11
Size:	44.0 KB
ID:	299991  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf PAC Brake Maint L5300 (1).pdf (109.5 KB, 10 views)
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Old 09-07-2020, 07:03 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigd9 View Post
I respectfully disagree with that diagnosis. The Pacbrake , even if left on all the time, does not activate unless certain conditions are met. The most common conditions would be switch on, cruise control off and coasting with or without the service brake being used. There are other ways the Pacbrake can be programed, but this is the most common. Many operators leave their exhaust brake on all the time, and a few of us only turn it on when we need it. It's just a personal decision.



It's just my WAG, but lack of proper Pacbrake lubrication and/or lack of use froze the Pacbrake valve in the shut position, thus cutting off the flow of exhaust gases. The Pacbrake should be lubricated as per the attached drawing and associated file.



NOTE: I hope my disagreeing with the OP doesn't cost me any Atta Boys I may have received for the correct answer. I will share whatever reward I receive with others that also get the answer correct and post before me.


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Old 09-14-2020, 12:19 PM   #36
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So, it seems there are several parts that need lube that are not accessible with the brake in the open (unrestricted position). If engine air pressure is up can the actuator rod be accessed by flipping the enable switch on the alison pad? It also seems lube should be added to the internals itself.. Do yall just unscrew the air tap?

Im tempted to unscrew it from the solenoid as opposed to the brake.
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Old 09-14-2020, 01:02 PM   #37
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Look at the info that Bidd9 posted in #34 of this thread and download the picture and document for your records.

I unscrew the hose at the cylinder and put 3-4 of drops in it. Since there is only on port on the cylinder the lubrication will work its way back into the solenoid valve. I take the lever arm loose and work the butterfly valve and lubricate it also.
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Old 09-14-2020, 02:42 PM   #38
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I use a pair of Vice Grips (my friend calls them GaterJaws) on the butterfly shaft and use them to open and close the butterfly valve while spraying lube in the joint. See Picture
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Old 09-14-2020, 05:07 PM   #39
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I too had a similar problem when out west in Wyoming this psst summer. Going up a long long hill with the temps in the 90's, I would have 30-34 lbs of boost for a bit and then it would drop to 17 or so and lose power and momentum. It would come back into the 30's and then drop off again. I made it to the top of this very long hill by dropping down a gear or two to get back some speed.

The other time it did it was while accelerating from a traffic light. It just lost all boost and power and felt like it was going to die in the middle of the intersection. The boost and acceleration came back and was fine. It did happen once more during that trip, but not to the extent of pulling a long hill. Once we were on more level terrain and home in NC there have been no more instances of losing boost. I did call a Cummins shop and explained the hill climb, heat and pulling a Jeep toad, he said it must have been a long hill and sounds normal.

After reading the above threads, my thinking is that I need to get under the coach and lube my exhaust brake.

I bought this coach used and looking through the basements and stuff left by the previous owner, I found a small bottle of exhaust brake lube. I looked for the brake mechanism, but obliviously not in the right place as I know I have one and use it all the time, but I couldn't find it.

I hoping that after reading the responses, that this was or is my problem as well. I do now know where to look for the possible offending brake mechanism.
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Old 09-14-2020, 06:52 PM   #40
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I too had a similar problem when out west in Wyoming this psst summer. Going up a long long hill with the temps in the 90's, I would have 30-34 lbs of boost for a bit and then it would drop to 17 or so and lose power and momentum. It would come back into the 30's and then drop off again. I made it to the top of this very long hill by dropping down a gear or two to get back some speed.

The other time it did it was while accelerating from a traffic light. It just lost all boost and power and felt like it was going to die in the middle of the intersection. The boost and acceleration came back and was fine. It did happen once more during that trip, but not to the extent of pulling a long hill. Once we were on more level terrain and home in NC there have been no more instances of losing boost. I did call a Cummins shop and explained the hill climb, heat and pulling a Jeep toad, he said it must have been a long hill and sounds normal.

After reading the above threads, my thinking is that I need to get under the coach and lube my exhaust brake.

I bought this coach used and looking through the basements and stuff left by the previous owner, I found a small bottle of exhaust brake lube. I looked for the brake mechanism, but obliviously not in the right place as I know I have one and use it all the time, but I couldn't find it.

I hoping that after reading the responses, that this was or is my problem as well. I do now know where to look for the possible offending brake mechanism.

You may not have a Pac Brake. I looked at a brochure for a 2008 Camelot and it indicates you have a
Variable Geometry Turbo Exhaust Brake, not sure what is required maintenance on they type.
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Old 09-14-2020, 07:36 PM   #41
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I lube my PAC brake 3-4 times a year. I take off the air hose and lube it internally and then lube the pivot at both ends, the actuating rod and top of the gate. I use a battery tender to activate the brake several times after lubing.
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Old 09-14-2020, 07:53 PM   #42
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Quote:
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You may not have a Pac Brake. I looked at a brochure for a 2008 Camelot and it indicates you have a
Variable Geometry Turbo Exhaust Brake, not sure what is required maintenance on they type.
Well that changes things. I will have to look and see what could now cause the problem.
I do have a switch on the dash that says exhaust brake and is lit when turned on. I just wondering why the previous owner had the brake lube on board.
I will do some research on the Variable Geometry Turbo.
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