Need a New Macerator Bypass

[Lukeaa]

The gray water bypass on my macerator is too small and constantly clogs.

Has anyone reengineered their bypass so that it is larger and does not clog so easily?

Luke
Currently at the Avi Casino and RV Park in Ft. Mojave, AZ

[Drifter]

Most of us have been turning the unit around so the manual anti clog access screw is accessible.



Parts not needed after change.

[Lukeaa]

I am not having a problem with my macerator jamming.

I am talking about the gray water bypass. It is the 1/4 inch tube that runs from the hose going into the macerator, to the hose coming out of the macerator. It allows you to leave the gray water valve open and it continously drains the gray water without turning on the macerator. Mine seems to get clogged daily so that I have to go out and turn on the macerator about twice a day when the DW is running the clothes washer.

[Drifter]

Luke, I'm sorry I didn't explain further. Part of the process of turning the pump around also is to replace the 3/4" 90deg. fitting with straight or tee fitting for better flow. That takes care of one side of the gray water hose. The fitting side that is connected to the pump also needs the threads trimmed so they do not protrude to far into to the pump housing. These changes will greatly increase flow of gray water.

[Our Time]

Drifter, when you made this change I noticed you did not use the rubber sealing ring. Did you change the sewer drain hose? Did the drain hose (4") seal ok without the rubber ring? I changed the factory drain line on ours but had difficulty getting the new 4 mil hose on using the rubber seal. I'am not sure it tightenes enough without the seal. Haven't had a chance to use it yet.

[Drifter]

Chuck, Sorry again that I didn't explain further. When changing from the black stinky hose to new, as you stated the rubber O'ring will not work well. So I used 7/8" 3M double back tape on the housing, wrapping it around with the cut seam at the top. You must also DE stick the outer side of the tape by handling or by rubbing cotton on tape to lesson adhesive stick, so new hose can be slipped on.

[Lukeaa]

Mike,
I will start accumulating the parts and put it together the next time we stop somewhere with good weather for a few days. We are currently in Bullhead City, AZ, waiting for the third sandstorm in four days. I really hate working outside in a sandstorm.

Thanks,
Luke

[Sixpack98]

Originally Posted by Drifter

Chuck, Sorry again that I didn't explain further. When changing from the black stinky hose to new, as you stated the rubber O'ring will not work well. So I used 7/8" 3M double back tape on the housing, wrapping it around with the cut seam at the top. You must also DE stick the outer side of the tape by handling or by rubbing cotton on tape to lesson adhesive stick, so new hose can be slipped on.

That's a great idea. I was able finally slip the Valterra triple wrap by using silicon "O" ring grease but it was still not easy. The Valterra does not like to seal on the 3" PCV pipe without some sort of flexible material between it and the PVC. I first tried to tighten the hose directly on the PVC but the worm gear clamp cut a small hole in the hose and it leaked. I cut off the damaged piece of hose and I bought a rolled edge clamp but still had a slight leak. Next time I'll use your trick. Good tip.

mark

[Sixpack98]

Originally Posted by Lukeaa

Mike,
I will start accumulating the parts and put it together the next time we stop somewhere with good weather for a few days. We are currently in Bullhead City, AZ, waiting for the third sandstorm in four days. I really hate working outside in a sandstorm.

Thanks,
Luke

Luke,
Try to find a rolled edge worm gear clamp otherwise you run the risk of the sharp edge of the clamp cutting into the hose. I found out the hard way.

Drifer's idea of the straight run for the bypass works. Since I turned my 3" discharge toward the back of the coach and redid the bypass the gray water drains fine.

mark

[Our Time]

Originally Posted by Drifter

Chuck, Sorry again that I didn't explain further. When changing from the black stinky hose to new, as you stated the rubber O'ring will not work well. So I used 7/8" 3M double back tape on the housing, wrapping it around with the cut seam at the top. You must also DE stick the outer side of the tape by handling or by rubbing cotton on tape to lesson adhesive stick, so new hose can be slipped on.

Thanks Mike. Now I remember you mentioned that in a earlier post and that is why I have the roll of tape in the coach tool box that I can't remember why I bought! DA!

[itdave]

Luke,
I was having your problem with the gray but recently someone told me that the answer was to create a siphon for the gray. What I do now is hook things up then open the gray valve and start the macerator pump once it starts flowing turn the pump off. We are then able to take two showers, run the washer and do dishes without having to restart the pump. The gray tank will be down to 0 by the end of the day. When I dump the black I do have to go through the process of reestablishing the siphon for the gray. Give this method a try before you go though the work of turning the pump around.

[Corkey]

Originally Posted by itdave

Luke,
I was having your problem with the gray but recently someone told me that the answer was to create a siphon for the gray. What I do now is hook things up then open the gray valve and start the macerator pump once it starts flowing turn the pump off. We are then able to take two showers, run the washer and do dishes without having to restart the pump. The gray tank will be down to 0 by the end of the day. When I dump the black I do have to go through the process of reestablishing the siphon for the gray. Give this method a try before you go though the work of turning the pump around.

I do exactly the same, .. open the Grey, turn on the pump for just a few seconds, turn it of, and it drains by itself through the bypass. This method has worked every time for me, now on my 3rd coach with macerator.

[Dutch Star Don]

Lukeaa.... I didn't have room to move my SaniCon as others did, so I was stuck. I complained to SaniCon and they sent me a kit with larger 90 degree plastic fittings and a larger clear plastic hose. They also recommend cutting the threaded end of the fittings down a little so they don't protrude so far into the main line.

Finally, when I set up my hose, I open the grey drain valve and get some water in the large hose. I then close the grey valve and turn the SaniCon on for just a second or two. It creates a fairly powerful vacumn and clears the bypass hose. I reopen the grey valve and I'm ready to go. I can't think of the last time I had the bypass plug.

[Lukeaa]

Don and Dave,

That seems to solve my problem, but I think I will also whine to the factory and see if I can get the upgraded bypass kit. Thanks for the help.