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Old 07-17-2008, 03:30 PM   #1
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A picture will be added as soon as possible to make this a bit clearer. Short version: on the driver's side, in front of the wheel there is a huge steering link with a grease seal and zert fitting for adding grease. The seal ruptured and I am having three kinds of heck finding a replacement part. I am told it's called a "drag link". Local repair shop said they couldn't find it. I have inquiries out to some salvage yards. Don't care if I find a new or used one. Just don't think my current method of pumping in grease and keeping it wrapped with duct tape will last forever.
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Old 07-17-2008, 03:30 PM   #2
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A picture will be added as soon as possible to make this a bit clearer. Short version: on the driver's side, in front of the wheel there is a huge steering link with a grease seal and zert fitting for adding grease. The seal ruptured and I am having three kinds of heck finding a replacement part. I am told it's called a "drag link". Local repair shop said they couldn't find it. I have inquiries out to some salvage yards. Don't care if I find a new or used one. Just don't think my current method of pumping in grease and keeping it wrapped with duct tape will last forever.
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Old 07-17-2008, 05:11 PM   #3
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Well don't know if this will help but can't hurt. First you need to know who made the power steering box. Next who made the axele What you are describing is indeed a Drag Link.

You may be able to get it from Roadmaster assuming your coach is on a Roadmaster chassis.
My 01 Diplomat has an Eaton axel, and the power steering box was made by R. H. Sheppard. I don't know who provided the drag link, but one of them must have.

I would give Roadmaster tech support a call first and ask them who made or provided the drag link.

If you crawl under your coach, there should be a plate or lettering in the center of the axel with the makers name. The steering box also has similar information, but it is very hard to see due to where it is installed.

Roadmaster 800-866-6226

Axel Eaton Corp. 800-826-4357
13100 E. Michigan Ave.
Galesburg, MI 49053
Fax: 616-342-5550
http://www.roadranger.com

Power Steering R.H, Sheppard Mod# M80 800-274-7437
www.rhsheppard.com
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Old 07-17-2008, 05:28 PM   #4
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Ditto. Call Monaco.
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Old 07-17-2008, 06:55 PM   #5
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RonNBama......That could be a pretty expensive repair. Here's a thought......There are two piece boots (in various sizes) that you can buy to repair constant velocity joints on front wheel drive cars. You may find a small enough one to fit that drag link connection. Any auto part store will send them. I've replaced several on Honda's. They are usually designed as tapered cones and you could cut it down to fit.

Just a thought!
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Old 07-18-2008, 01:45 AM   #6
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Don, I think you're on to something here. AS I said earlier, the duct tape (actually a bit more elaborate that) won't last forever. However, I caught the damage before the bearings were exposed to the elements. I will definitely look into repairing the seal.

The repair shop had contacted Monaco (or Roadmaster) and were told that if the shaft was RHT the part was no longer available but LHT could be found. Hmmmmm, turning into a bit of a nightmare.

BTW: I just saw your gen exhaust design. Very nice.
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Old 07-18-2008, 04:18 AM   #7
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Good Morning everyone...
Bama got the photo to me this AM...all I can say is it looks "greasy"!



MM



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Old 07-18-2008, 04:40 AM   #8
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If the metal is bent as much as the picture shows, the seals are the last thing I would be looking at. Most truck repair shops should be able to come up with a new joint or seals. Your post and picture are a gentle reminder that is time for me to take a tour of the underneath of our coach. Thanks

PS. did search on Heim Joints and found this.
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...nnyjoints.aspx
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Old 07-18-2008, 10:42 AM   #9
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As far as I can tell, nothing is bent. That's the way it's made. Good link. Looks like I can at least re-engineer the setup if push comes to shove.

Thanks Mama. I knew you would save me.
IOU (and SacsTC) your choice of cold frosty beverages. Heck, I'll even throw in a juicy med-rare steak if you'll drop by some time.
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Old 07-18-2008, 03:48 PM   #10
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RonNBama, take that picture to a NAPA store. I'll bet they can provide the drag link end. It looks to be the same as the tie rod ends. To match it up, if NAPA thinks they can, you will need to remove it and let them look measure it.
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Old 07-19-2008, 02:27 AM   #11
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Thanks for the idea Rex. Will do.

OK, now I demonstrate the depth and width of my lack of knowledge: this component appears to be a straight-forward gorilla-knuckle. No special expertise needed to remove/install. Can I assume that it doesn't require critical adjustment techniques say like the components for camber and caster adjustments? Duuuhhh
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Old 07-19-2008, 06:04 PM   #12
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RonNbama, I would measure the distance from the jam nut to the center of the piece being replaced. Make sure the distance is the same when installing the new one. If there is a difference, it will most likely only show up with a different position of the steering wheel relative to center.

Removal problem is finding a fork large enough to remove the unit. May have to use a gear puller in reverse. Go for it.
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Old 07-20-2008, 03:56 PM   #13
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Oh shoot! I had hoped that a SawZall would be the proper tool. :-)
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Old 07-20-2008, 08:37 PM   #14
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If you count the number of turns out and put the new one in the same number, you should be very close.



<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Rex:
RonNbama, I would measure the distance from the jam nut to the center of the piece being replaced. Make sure the distance is the same when installing the new one. If there is a difference, it will most likely only show up with a different position of the steering wheel relative to center.

Removal problem is finding a fork large enough to remove the unit. May have to use a gear puller in reverse. Go for it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
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