Need help on bedroom slide out

[jacwjames]

Mine does not have an encoder on the bedroom slide or the main LR slide, I have never seen any mention of an encoder in any of the many posts regarding slide systems.
Power gear does had an E-Sync system but this is used there are 2 motors.

[2Yoopers]

My bedroom slide has the clutch system as well. Makes a ratcheting sound once it is fully extended or all the way in. Have some pics of mine when I took the bed out to replace the carpet.

[153stars]

Could clarify what they meant by an encoder. An encoder could describe something could be used to determine position by a number of pulses from switch or magnet pulses. Or motor rpms or say a gearbox final rpms could be calculated.
I supposed something that reads amperage and sends a signal could be described as an encoder. Not sure if that could be any help at all.

[Chargerman]

Sorry that I am not near my coach currently to provide and in depth help but I can say that my bed side works similar to the OP's. When extending or retracting my motor just stops after meeting resistance and there is not a ratcheting type clutch. Sure seems like whatever stops the motor when it reaches a given amperage draw is not working in your case

[Steve43]

It gets murkier. I talked with REV tech support and here is what they had to say: "Unfortunately, we have limited information regarding the construction of this RV, as it was built by the previous Monaco Coach Corporation, which closed under bankruptcy in 2009. However, according to our service manager: That slide does not have any stops or sensor to stop the slide. The owner has to do that by watching the slide and knowing when it needs to stop at full in or full out. As for roll pins, it is best to get double wall roll pins for the mechanism, that way they don’t break as easy."

Now am I surprised? No, trying to get ANY info for HR/Monaco is virtually impossible. But it does 'kinda' confirm that there are no stops but 'somehow', the 'original' motor stalls out when it reaches full in/full out because for certain models, there is no ratcheting sound, just a motor that stops.
I have ordered some double roll pins but I want to still talk to Lippert to see what damage it might cause by inserting a double pin.
Stay tuned while I go back to Lippert. . . but I'll still take any additional advice that this forum has!!

[jacwjames]

My front slide does not have any stops and it does not ratchet/jump. It just stops when it comes to the end of the stroke. I've never broken a bolt or pin (can't remember what it uses).



To be honest I was kind of thinking the same thing but afraid to suggest in case something would happen.

[747guy]

The clicking sound come from an internal clutch on the drive gear. I replaced the sheared roll pin and also purchased a new clutch get from RV Upgrades.
Mine was caused by a storage door being open while retracting
2006 Monaco Camelot

[Tfixer]

Is the roll pin that is shearing the one at the left of your 3rd photo or the one that seems to be missing where the coupler fits onto the gear shaft in the center of the pic?

I have a 2004 HR with front and rear slide. When my slides hit the stops, the moter just bogs down until i release the switch. If i push the switch again, the motor tries to run but can't. There are no limit switches.

If the pin fits in the hole/slot where the coupler connects to the shaft from the motor, i have some thoughts.

[Tom48]

So my living room slide is my problem. Two things I learned. NEVER LUBRICATE the gear drive. Camping world's fix was to repeatedly cake gear grease on the gears and rails leading to them skipping a cog when under load. Then the slide does not close on one end or the other. My drive train has 1/4 20 bolts where you have roll pins. They were shearing so often I refer to them as shear pins. Camping World (again) was dropping the gear to realign the slide then replaced the sheared bolt with fancy black hex head 1/4 20 bolts that turned out to be soft steel or grade five bolts. Finally spoke to tech/engineer at REV. "Must only use grade 8, 1/4 20 bolts-- or harder." (All CW invoices were found in the records from the former owner---- I would never#$@##)

I haven't gotten the "harder " yet. But none of my grade 8s have broken YET. Though we do use a soft touch when reaching limit in or out. Especially IN, since we have a level floor slide I try to put a shoulder on it on initial start - up to help up that 45°, 3/4 inch step.

[tomgauger]

Originally Posted by Steve43

Where to begin? Worked fine the last 3 years. Started not working (retracting or going out) large clunking sound and then nothing. Had repair shop look at it multiple times, said it needed new motor - previous motor drawing too much amperage. Changed motor, still same thing - back twice more, said fixed, not so. Finally decided to fix it myself (at age 78), pulled bed apart and the clunking was roll pin breaking every time. The roll pin only breaks at full out or full in, nothing in transition. When it does break, it does not take any effort to push in/out so nothing is binding (I have a single flat geared plate at center of bed - Monaco design for many years). I did have to replace the slide out control over a year ago but it worked without fault and Front slide continues to work correctly. Thought maybe repair facility used wrong motor and it was the cause but power gear says "although it isn't correct motor to use, it wouldn't cause the problem". They want to blame the controller. The controller is from KIB: SOD1020AWD which when reading their literature, says it correlates to Monaco #16615989F which was the original Slide control. I have been reading where the relays can fail and motor won't turn but not the opposite - motor turns too much, too long? That appears to be what is happening. If I 'baby it at full out or full in and not keep the button depressed, it works without breaking. But it has always worked that when the slide reached full out or in, the motor would power off before anything 'broke'. There appears to be no way to 'reset' the controller to change an internal set point and I have no idea how you would go about checking to see if it was operating correctly.

I'm sorry for such long winded but needed to give full picture of problem. Have also tried different roller pins but that appears to have no effect.

Thanks for any advice, help!

Same prob on my Exec. It turned out that the bolts holding the motor to the gear assembly had loosened over time. Carefully align the motor to the gear assembly and tighten with a ratchet wrench.

[gweedo295]

Grade 8 bolts are a good idea, I used them in my carefree awning. Since you don’t have the limit switch, you might want to mark the floor or some area with tape or? when it’s at full open and close just to give yourself a visual aid, Just a thought.

[41pu]

I have 2004 Holiday Rambler. My bedroom slide also has the clutch noise when the slide goes out as well as when retracting.
The main slide just stops.

[Steve43]

Jut a quick followup. Never heard back from Lippert after a few back and forth. Seems their customer support can't take the time to read the entire message traffic so I kept getting messages that made no sense. Once I put them on notice that I wanted to know what damage might be caused by using heavier roll pins, I heard nothing.
So, based on what REV suggested to me and what the manual clearly states ("Release the slide-out switch when the room is fully extended (a change in motor sound indicates extension). The slide-out drive motor will not stop automatically; the switch must be released."), I have replaced the roll pin with double rolled pins from Graingers. I'm hopeful that this is the right solution and won't break something else but I still would love to know why it broke in the first place.
We have a rally starting Wednesday so I will get to try out the new roll pin soon. I will report back with any updates.

[jacwjames]

Good luck