Need help with Aria Deluxe II toilet flushing problems

[Red Dixon]

I have learned a lot about this toilet, number one be sure it is getting full power. i will not work right if the voltage is weak.......the over haul is simple just be sure to use plenty of good sealant when putting it back together.
Also, if it is not holding water, check to see if there is some paper that has worked it's way into the space that it fits in......

[Mr_D]

In the '02 Dutch Star we had the manual toilet. Had the rig for 13 years and never had to do a thing to it. No seals, no springs, no broken parts. Quiet and worked everytime. No so with the present Aria china electric one.

[VinceB]

FWIW, I have a Thetford Aria II in my '01 Diplomat.

I've rebuilt it twice because it wouldn't hold water. That meant taking the unit out of the coach and installing new parts. It leaked water again just as we were leaving the driveway for a month-long trip. Being familiar with the design by this time, I simply got some silicone and sealed the joint just above the slide -pushed it in with my finger until is just wouldn't take any more. I did this from the top with the toilet still in place -hasn't leaked down in 4 years.

Recently when attempting to flush, the slide was not retracting but water was entering the bowl just like a normal flush. There is a small knob at the rear of the slide on the back side of the toilet that turns a worm screw that operates the slide. Happily on my installation I can reach around the rear of the toilet and turn the knob - not so on my buddy's rig – so yours may be different. IIRC, this knob can be used to open the slide in case of total power or other failure. It takes what seems like hundreds of turns to get the slide to move so be patient. IIRC, if you were facing the rear of the toilet, you would turn clock-wise to open the slide.

All I had to do was give the knob about a quarter of a turn or so to "get it off dead center" and the toilet would operate normally but would then stop with the slide open. One more push of the top button and the slide would close. Initially, the problem was intermittent but, as the slide operation became nosier and nosier, it became more frequent until it was 100% of the time. It seemed to me that the motor that operates the slide was struggling against friction and would protect itself when a certain torque was encountered.

I carry rebuild parts, but on day 1 of a 5-day trip, I wasn’t going to spend it R&R a toilet. So here is the fix I came up with: I gave the knob the quarter turn then pressed both buttons simultaneously 2x (this opens the slide and holds it open). I got some Vaseline and reached down through the hole toward the back of the toilet and smeared as much Vaseline as I could on the worm screw. I also smeared as much as I could on the area where the slide comes into contact with the slide outer housing – the “track” it runs on. I also lubed the rubber ring that creates the seal with the slide when it is closed. Yes, a filthy job.

Problem solved (for now anyway) and it operates much quieter. I’m not sure Vaseline was the best choice but any port in a storm…

You can’t reach all areas you would like but the operation of the slide will spread the Vaseline around. If ever I have to do another rebuild, I will make sure these parts are well-lubed before they are installed: probably with white lithium grease. Vaseline will get hard in a cold environment; not a problem where I live.

[86 Cavalcade]

I have owned my 40' Diplomat almost 6 years and just installed my 3rd operating mechanism, Thetford part #19613. I also bought a new flush control module and used it for a month. Sometimes it would run the water and not open the blade. I called Thetford and they suggested I may have a low voltage problem. I ran wires from the Norcold fridge that I no longer have, too the toilet. Same problem! I told my wife that the only thing I have not replaced was the flush buttons, Thetford part #28964. I ordered one of these and installed it yesterday along with the new blade mechanism. It appears this may have cured this long running issue. If it works with no more problems for a week I will reply again. George 2001 Diplomat PBD

[Dr4Film]

Originally Posted by 86 Cavalcade

I have owned my 40' Diplomat almost 6 years and just installed my 3rd operating mechanism, Thetford part #19613. I also bought a new flush control module and used it for a month. Sometimes it would run the water and not open the blade. I called Thetford and they suggested I may have a low voltage problem. I ran wires from the Norcold fridge that I no longer have, too the toilet. Same problem! I told my wife that the only thing I have not replaced was the flush buttons, Thetford part #28964. I ordered one of these and installed it yesterday along with the new blade mechanism. It appears this may have cured this long running issue. If it works with no more problems for a week I will reply again. George 2001 Diplomat PBD

George,

I certainly hope you have solved your problems and I hope that my post doesn't jinx your fix.

However, I really hate to burst your bubble and say, "I doubt it".

Your permanent solution is to remove the "possessed" toilet and install one that will work faithfully when you need it to.

That would be a Sealand Concerto full porcelain toilet.

Good luck with your new push buttons.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[86 Cavalcade]

All, This is a follow up to my ongoing Aria 1 toilet issues. In the last 3 weeks I have installed a new mechanism, controller, keypad, and ran new 12 volt AWG 12 wires from the Norcold frig I no longer have. It still would not work properly. I think I have finally fixed it, I think. The only thing I never replaced was the Thetford wiring that hooks all the different things together. I finally found 2 of the crimp connectors that would make intermittent contact. I used new connectors that I soldered after crimping and it has worked with no problems since. If this does not fix it I am done with these toilets & will replace it as many I am sure have done. George 2001 Diplomat