Need help with the Winn/Racor fuel water separator

[Bob&AnnaMari]

I have the Winn/Racor fuel/water separataor filter 90S1230C identified in a separate post about 460 days ago. My separator has developed a leak around the plastic filter part (#300200). When I open the unit I see 2 O-rings in the metal holders at each end. And, on my unit someone has put an O-ring at each end between the brackets holding the plastic part and the plastic filter. I don't think these last 2 belong there. (It has been somewhat of a nightmare just trying to find the correct O-rings for this thing.)

Does anyone know where I can get a schematic of what the parts are for the whole 90S1230C unit? I would really like to put this thing back together correctly.

(I tried to add this to an old post on this subject and the system won't allow me to do it.)

Thanks,
Bob Stokesbary

[Mandys Man]

Bob,
Unfortunately, the part you are trying to fix is obsolete. You may want to consider this retrofit kit.

Here is a google search for the original parts that may help.

[Bob&AnnaMari]

The part I am trying to replace is NOT obsolete. You are thinking of the 200200 filter element which now is replaced by the Racor part RK12963 that uses the S3230P filter. The part that I am having my trouble with is the plastic part that sits along side the filter. It is sort of a primary filter to remove the big parts (sludge) before it gets to the S3203P filter.

[Richard and Babs and a Bob Tail Cat]

We gave up and replaced ours with a New Racor with the manual priming pump and bleeder. We were always chasing leaks in the plastic screen parts and primimg pump. Much simpler and easier to use for us.

http://www.maesco.com/products/racor...spn_intro.html

[photoadjuster]

I have been there. The plastic prefilter gets microscopic cracks where the end caps are glued on (or heat sealed) to the main body of the plastic body of the filter. If someone has added extra rubber O rings, they may not have noticed the real leaking location.

Just buy a new one. It installs with only one O ring on each end.

[Bob&AnnaMari]

Thank you both (Richard & Mike). After quite a search I found what I believe to be replacement O-rings. They are fat little buggers. Anyway, I will order a replacement plastic part and just put this back together and see if it works. If it fails, I will give Richard's suggestion a try. I can see from the web page he recommends that it is going to take some research to figure out which size would be a good replacement for the filter I have now. And, I do not want to lose the connection to the water in fuel light on the dash.

[Bob&AnnaMari]

I forgot to post the final follow-up. I found the 300200 part, cleaned the whole unit and put it back in. The O-rings that shipped with the part were totally the wrong part for the assembly (which probably explains why the person doing a previous repair on this unit put them in the wrong place. I was able to find some O-rings that duplicated the ones in the body of the unit. Reassembly was straight forward. Everything seems to be OK for now.

[wgreene]

Originally Posted by Mandys Man

Bob,
Unfortunately, the part you are trying to fix is obsolete. You may want to consider this retrofit kit.

Here is a google search for the original parts that may help.

Seems I must replace the 200200 filter kit on our coach using the RK-12963. Do you know if the replacement is something a typical owner should be able to perform? And, if so, what are the risks?

Thanks.

Bill Greene

[Bob&AnnaMari]

Bill,
Have you ever replaced a fuel filter before? I way over-thought this whole process and expected to have fuel all over the place. Reality for me was quite different.

I parked the coach with the front on a slight down-hill slope. When I disconnected the fuel line (since I was doing a replacement of the whole filter body assembly) nothing happened; not a drop. Since you are just changing the filter there will be some fuel that will leak out of the old filter, so a you will want to use a catch pan under the filter.

I would strongly suggest that you shop around on the internet for the replacement unit. There is a wide spread on prices. Despite the pictures you see, the RK-12963 unit is just the filter and a new bottom piece with the water sensor. So it is a simple spin-on replacement. Finally, just follow your coach instructions for eliminating the air in the system. (This filter system has its own priming pump included in the assembly which helps remove air from the filter.) This all sounds a lot more complicated than it is in reality.

You have to understand that in this day and age (with all the litigation that happens) when you ask "What are the risks?" you force people to say things that may not (and probably would not) happen. Because "risks" include that you could do something that would start a fire in the coach, you could also get so much air in the line that you could not start the coach and would have to have someone tow you to a dealer to get it fixed. Do I believe that you would encounter those things? No. But, they are "risks".

Bob Stokesbary
2003 Beaver Patriot

[wgreene]

Bob -

Appreciate your informative reply. Actually, I have replaced the filters and, like you, have not experienced any problem. I see that you also have a 2003 Patriot which I'm assuming came with the Racor-Parker 200200 filter and accommodating receiver assembly (if a 12L Cat engine). It was only recently that I was no longer able to get the 200200 when I ran across the issue of having to replace the receiver assembly to accommodate the Racor-Parker S3230P filter/separator, the replacement for the 200200. Have you come up against this problem?

I'm not all that well informed on the configuration but it is my understanding from the RK12963 is indeed a RETROFIT KIT for accepting the S3230P (I have a Parker site reference but think I read that one should not post site url's on this forum). So my less than clear message was actually directed toward replacement of the filter receiver assembly, which I think you referred to as the "filter body assembly" (you can see that I'm coping with unfamiliar terminology). I was quoted by a local shop familiar with the job that the retrofit was about a half-hour job meaning it would take me a half-day with finding the right tools and taking all the precautions should I decide to take on the task at all. The quoted parts price was $165 plus freight for retro kit and filter but I see much better web prices if my confidence builds sufficiently for performing the change-out myself.

At the risk of pressing my luck, have you had any problems with impacted grease fittings? I perform my own lub every 5K miles and found two impacted this last pass. Ironically, it is the same, peculiar fittings on each side of the tag axle assembly. I've removed and tested these abnormal long fittings to make sure they were clear. This isolated the problem to what appears to be impacted joints on the tag axle. Just curious if you might have experienced this condition.

Thanks again for your reply. I look forward to any advice you might have on either of these situations.

Bill

Originally Posted by Bob&AnnaMari

Bill,
Have you ever replaced a fuel filter before? I way over-thought this whole process and expected to have fuel all over the place. Reality for me was quite different.

I parked the coach with the front on a slight down-hill slope. When I disconnected the fuel line (since I was doing a replacement of the whole filter body assembly) nothing happened; not a drop. Since you are just changing the filter there will be some fuel that will leak out of the old filter, so a you will want to use a catch pan under the filter.

I would strongly suggest that you shop around on the internet for the replacement unit. There is a wide spread on prices. Despite the pictures you see, the RK-12963 unit is just the filter and a new bottom piece with the water sensor. So it is a simple spin-on replacement. Finally, just follow your coach instructions for eliminating the air in the system. (This filter system has its own priming pump included in the assembly which helps remove air from the filter.) This all sounds a lot more complicated than it is in reality.

You have to understand that in this day and age (with all the litigation that happens) when you ask "What are the risks?" you force people to say things that may not (and probably would not) happen. Because "risks" include that you could do something that would start a fire in the coach, you could also get so much air in the line that you could not start the coach and would have to have someone tow you to a dealer to get it fixed. Do I believe that you would encounter those things? No. But, they are "risks".

Bob Stokesbary
2003 Beaver Patriot

[Bob&AnnaMari]

Bill,
My situation was somewhat different than just replacing the filter. The plastic "pre-filter" was leaking on my assembly and I had to take the whole thing out and replace that part then put the whole thing back. From what I understand from your post, you only need to replace the main fuel filter. The RK12963 kit is just a new bottom sensor and S3230P filter. If you have replaced the filter before, this should be very similar to your previous experience with the 200200 filter. All they have done with this kit is make the sensor a separate assembly.

I have not done any of the lubrication myself. But, thanks for the heads up on the tag axle fittings. I will check that out.

Bob Stokesbary
2003 Beaver Patriot.