Community Forums

noeldale · 01-27-2017, 11:58 AM

On a newly acquired Neptune I've found under the main slide the roof trim strip, which is just below the awning rail strip, has come loose from the sidewall. It seems like the rivets have pulled out. I do not see any water intrusion as it is under the closed slide topper.

.
I think the backing is the fiberglass and then at least 1/4 luann. They might have used rivets that were too short. Don't know how long would work. If this is true then how would the best repair be done.

You can see that each end of the pull-away is still under the slide topper so it should be good until the weather breaks in Michigan. Gives me time to plan and get parts.

I am wondering if the best method is to

Remove the slide topper material
Remove the awning rail
Remove the roof trim strip as far as I can. Hopefully aft to the one photo and forward as far as necessary. Maybe even cut it and terminate at the end of the fault.
Caulk all old holes and roof edge.
Remove old rivets
Clean all surfaces.
Drill new holes in roof trim strip.
Install new rivets, possibly longer if that is possible. Looking for help here.
Install awning rail.
Install slide topper material.

I have some EternaBond left over from a TT project and could use this if it seems needed. Don't really want to just patch the area.

Guys go ahead with the experience and suggestions. Not looking for a dealer to do the work and the MH is next to my garage so I have all the support needed.

If you have done some of this area and have photos that would also be great.

Thanks

RustyTools · 01-28-2017, 04:35 AM

Seems to be a fairly-common problem. You'll find quite a bit of info on here by doing some searching. Usual solution is to replace the rivets or use longer screws, going into the actual framing behind the thin fiberglas & skin.

I had a couple places that had the rivets pulled out just like yours, and decided to go around the entire coach and reinforce ALL rivets with self-tapping screws. Found quite a few that were starting to pull out. Might be a good idea to check the rest of your coach too.

noeldale · 01-28-2017, 06:07 AM

The search around the entire perimeter is planned. I tried to do searches on the forum but must not have the right terms in the search as nothing came up. I'll keep at it.

Self tapping screws and caulk seem to be the best solution.

Thanks for the reply.

I've got time to decide how to go as winter has a grip on Michigan right now.

RustyTools · 01-28-2017, 07:26 AM

Try searching for words like 'roof' and 'sidewall', etc.

I bookmark interesting threads as I come across them, knowing that I'll be sure to need them eventually. Here's a couple...

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/roof...per-71997.html

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/roof...on-259639.html

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/roof...wall-4005.html

BTW, the caulk that is on there is probably silicone. A bear to take off because it's so rubbery, and nothing else will ever stick to it (so you have to use the same stuff).

Captjake1 · 01-28-2017, 08:38 AM

Just repairs Boomers yesterday in the desert.
We used 1 1/2" self drilling screws. Start at one end and work back, adding a screw in between each irina and one adjacent to the original.
Nit as bad as we thought it might be. Just needs to reseal now.
Took off the topper. His was separated about 12-14 feet.

noeldale · 01-28-2017, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RustyTools

Try searching for words like 'roof' and 'sidewall', etc.

I bookmark interesting threads as I come across them, knowing that I'll be sure to need them eventually. Here's a couple...

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/roof...per-71997.html

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/roof...on-259639.html

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/roof...wall-4005.html

BTW, the caulk that is on there is probably silicone. A bear to take off because it's so rubbery, and nothing else will ever stick to it (so you have to use the same stuff).

In searching for 'roof trim' there was very little. Changing the search to 'roof' or 'separation' or the two together did give the results you suggested and some more. The search feature is very selective. Thanks for the links.

noeldale · 01-28-2017, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captjake1

Just repairs Boomers yesterday in the desert.
We used 1 1/2" self drilling screws. Start at one end and work back, adding a screw in between each irina and one adjacent to the original.
Nit as bad as we thought it might be. Just needs to reseal now.
Took off the topper. His was separated about 12-14 feet.

Capt, that is how long mine is. I'll get it in a good week in March or April when we get above 45 for a while.

Knowing the screw length that has worked for some is a real advantage. I plan on doing a photo blog as I go and add it to mine so it can be searched.

Captjake1 · 01-28-2017, 09:43 AM

#8 by 1 1/2" hex drive. All we could find but it worked great! Took 1 or 2 hours, with of us.

RustyTools · 02-13-2017, 01:06 PM

Recently got done with going around the entire coach and re-drilling/re-caulking the roof-to-wall seams. Found that quite a few of the original rivets had pulled thru or were loose, glad I did it... I had visions of driving along and having the coach suddenly becoming a convertible (realizing it couldn't happen quite like that, but the images were scary-enough to be glad I persevered

).

Predrilled for #8 x 1 1/2 self-tapper stainless hex-heads in between each rivet, and almost all went into the very solid steel frame. I'm guessing the rivets had only gone into 'most of' the fiberglas sidewall itself, and even then the flexing of the joints had popped off some of the rivet-heads.

However, I spent this week chasing all of the shorts/opens I evidently caused by drilling into the 'spine' of the 12v bundles

that are along the interior roof-line. Lost lighting in the dressing room, the living room, part of the bathroom, and the big outside awning. Took quite a bit of ingenuity to re-string some lines and tap into other adjacent lines, all without anything being visible. Actually think that took more time than the screw-job.

How did y'all get off so easy???

By the way - I'm certain this fix will stop some intermittent leaks that I'd been chasing over 2 of the slides, and right at the rubber-to-wall joint on the inside. Very insidious.

10Boomer · 02-13-2017, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RustyTools

Recently got done with going around the entire coach and re-drilling/re-caulking the roof-to-wall seams. Found that quite a few of the original rivets had pulled thru or were loose, glad I did it... I had visions of driving along and having the coach suddenly becoming a convertible (realizing it couldn't happen quite like that, but the images were scary-enough to be glad I persevered

).

Predrilled for #8 x 1 1/2 self-tapper stainless hex-heads in between each rivet, and almost all went into the very solid steel frame. I'm guessing the rivets had only gone into 'most of' the fiberglas sidewall itself, and even then the flexing of the joints had popped off some of the rivet-heads.

However, I spent this week chasing all of the shorts/opens I evidently caused by drilling into the 'spine' of the 12v bundles

that are along the interior roof-line. Lost lighting in the dressing room, the living room, part of the bathroom, and the big outside awning. Took quite a bit of ingenuity to re-string some lines and tap into other adjacent lines, all without anything being visible. Actually think that took more time than the screw-job.

How did y'all get off so easy???

By the way - I'm certain this fix will stop some intermittent leaks that I'd been chasing over 2 of the slides, and right at the rubber-to-wall joint on the inside. Very insidious.

Rusty did the electrical issues come after you used 1 1/2" self tappers. I used same originals were not long enough. Roof is more secure.
PS

RustyTools · 02-14-2017, 04:31 AM

Yup, everything worked before I started the job, but not after.... typical for me

When we toured the factory back-when, I remember noticing that wiring would go into a wall as the wall was being built and then the entire wall would be set to the floor/chassis and connected - not like a home where the wiring would be strung after framing.

For convenience/speed, they would built the 'spinal-column' on a big loom and then place the entire bundle into the wall frame, separating the local runs as required. Just my luck that it was all right where I didn't need it.

There is a very big bundle going from under the dash up the passenger 'A' pillar, and then to the overhead area. Amazing how much wire is in a coach.

Captjake1 · 02-14-2017, 07:49 AM

Sorry you ran into that problem that really sucks!

noeldale · 02-14-2017, 10:09 AM

Is the problem using the 1 1/2" self tappers. Would the same grip be gotten using only 1 1/4" screws or is this just a fluke that it happened to RustyTools?

I'll be doing this repair when the weather breaks in April so am preparing now.

RustyTools · 02-14-2017, 11:42 AM

A very good question, Dale. I wish I knew - maybe some background might help.

When I did about 10ft on the driver side several months ago, I think I was using regular 1-1/4" phillips-head screws (all I had at the time, and it was kinda of an emergency because I could see the entire roof/sidewall beginning to pull loose at the top). When I did the rest of the coach this time, I stocked-up on extra drill-bits and longer self-tapping screws and wanted to be sure it all stayed-put.

Thus, there are several differences, and I don't know if they may be related:
1) I had no issues at all on the driver side (maybe no wire-runs on that side?),
2) I was using shorter screws the first time (maybe they missed a wire bundle?)
3) I put in a lot more screws the second time around, and maybe that increased chances for a problem,
4) your coach is a different model and year, and maybe was made in Oregon (mine is an '06 Endeavor made in Wakarusa). As has been said, these things are like snowflakes - no two are alike.
5) No one else has had this issue, and at least several other folks have done this repair,
6) something else (like me being just-plain unlucky??).

This wasn't an insurmountable issue, but a very unexpected one but one that could eventually be repaired. The repair job needed to be done in any case, else the roof/sidewall would continue to pop rivets. I would be very reluctant to just replace those popped short rivets with more of the same, because I'd just be doing it again in the future - they needed a firmer grip.

I hope this doesn't scare anyone away from doing it, things sometimes just happen. And sorry to drag this somewhat off-topic, but I hope it is a help.