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Old 12-17-2021, 06:54 AM   #1
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New Flooring tricks

So, my wife is a dog person and we've traveled with dogs in every RV we've owned. She insists that the dogs be crated so we've had dog crates secured in one form or fashion in our Class C and now the DP. Always in the same place.
I replaced the carpeting in our DP back in 2009, carpeting and dogs don't go together so I replaced with laminate floating floor. All was good until I felt a soft spot in the floor just in front of the crates. I suspect that years of water dish spilling and/or wet dogs coming in caught up with us.

So since I've been in the middle of FIXIN stuff I decided to tackle this issue. Ripped up most of the laminate in the front portion of the LR and yup, I have to replace the subfloor and in some areas both layers.



So if I am going to this I'm going to do it right. So here are my questions.
  1. Whats a good flooring that can withstand the abuse the dogs will cause (wet, scratching from nails etc).
  2. I'm contemplating ripping up the ceramic tile in the kitchen and bath area. For those of you that have done it, how hard was it to get the tile up. My kitchen cabinets are in the slide. How do you get the tile up from under the cabinets and slide?
  3. Any prep work required to the subfloor. Would it pay to use some sort of water barrier like Aqua Defense and/or Red Gard.
  4. I know that I will have to replace a portion of the first layer of subfloor, the part exposed to the weather under the coach. There is currently a plastic sheeting as a barrier, what's a good option on sealing this >>>> FlexSeal spray??
  5. Is it worth pulling the coach off the slide platform, ripping up the carpeting, and putting flooring on that.
Lots to think about, luckily I've got a garage to work in, all the necessary tools, and am foolish enough to tackle this project
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Old 12-17-2021, 07:09 AM   #2
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Subscribing for future reference, hopefully you will post up some pictures of this project.

Sorry Iím of no help in this department!
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Old 12-17-2021, 07:22 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by jdw1 View Post
Subscribing for future reference, hopefully you will post up some pictures of this project.

Sorry Iím of no help in this department!

Moral support is good enough for now
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Old 12-17-2021, 09:17 AM   #4
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"Moral support is good enough for now"

I did mine a few years ago. By far the worst, was the demo. Took 2 'deep cleans' after I cleaned the coach to get all the dirt out. And that was after I had constructed a plastic barricade with shop vacs to create a negative pressure inside the coach. PPE is critical.

Ernie Elkberg has posted here, monacoers and FB often. He really inspired me to tackle this project myself. Great ideas and very helpful if you reach out to him.

Fortunately I didn't have any issues with sub floor, so I can't help you there. I went with engineered wood, but wouldn't be my choice if we still had our Labs. I think waterproof LVT might be a better solution for you. We left the tile in the bathroom and installed a transition piece.

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Old 12-17-2021, 09:24 AM   #5
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I am curious about the edges of the floating floor, do you have to leave a gap and put trim all around it like in a regular house?
To the OP I would be looking at a glue together product vs snap together if they still make it, doesn't the snap together allow moisture to get in?
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Old 12-17-2021, 09:42 AM   #6
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I am curious about the edges of the floating floor, do you have to leave a gap and put trim all around it like in a regular house?
To the OP I would be looking at a glue together product vs snap together if they still make it, doesn't the snap together allow moisture to get in?

The flooring I laid before was a snap lock type laminate but I actually glued all the joints with a water proof glue. I know this didn't completely seal the joints but I'm sure it helped. The laminate actually held up really well, the stuff I tore up to expose the bad area was still in good shape. I had to destroy it to get it out so back to the drawing board.

When I laid it the first time I left a gap under the slide and between the tile. The one long section of wall I fit it pretty tight and just used a clear silicone to seal the gap.

I had used the plastic/foam under layment for the laminate, this my have been a mistake since it may have trapped any water that did penetrate the laminate.
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Old 12-17-2021, 09:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windsorbill View Post
"Moral support is good enough for now"

I did mine a few years ago. By far the worst, was the demo. Took 2 'deep cleans' after I cleaned the coach to get all the dirt out. And that was after I had constructed a plastic barricade with shop vacs to create a negative pressure inside the coach. PPE is critical.

Ernie Elkberg has posted here, monacoers and FB often. He really inspired me to tackle this project myself. Great ideas and very helpful if you reach out to him.

Fortunately I didn't have any issues with sub floor, so I can't help you there. I went with engineered wood, but wouldn't be my choice if we still had our Labs. I think waterproof LVT might be a better solution for you. We left the tile in the bathroom and installed a transition piece.

Attachment 351653
Thanks Bill, flooring looks great.
I agree, a wood product is not the best for dogs. Just built a new house with the entire basement set up for caring of the dogs. But my wife has now insisted that they should be upstairs. About 1/2 the first floor is tile in the foyer, kitchen, living room and MB. 900 sq ft is hard wood flooring is already showing signs. The larger dogs toe nails leave marks. I've resigned myself that It Is What It Is and will have to have all the floors redone when it's time to sell. I've given up on arguing about it.

I will be looking for a waterproof vinyl for the coach.
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Old 12-17-2021, 09:51 AM   #8
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Here is a picture of the damaged area, guess where the dog crates were and about where the front doors were!!!!!
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Old 12-17-2021, 12:31 PM   #9
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As far as your tile in the picture, I'd chip it out and try to get just an 1" or so past the cabinet face. You can install your new floor and use shoe base pin nailed to the cabinet face to cover the gap. If the tile is considerably thicker than your new material, then that will need to be addressed. I probably would not try to take ALL the tile out from under the cabinets. That will create other problems.

I had no tile under cabinets (no cabinets sitting directly on tile floor) as my cabinets are all on a slide so wasn't an issue. Getting the few square feet of tile out from under the slide was as big a job as the rest of the exposed tile. A real PITA.

You mentioned both layers of sub floor may be damaged. Hopefully the bottom layer sub-floor is less damaged than your picture. That looks like it's over the passenger steer. Water tightness from the underside will be critical.
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Old 12-17-2021, 04:32 PM   #10
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As far as your tile in the picture, I'd chip it out and try to get just an 1" or so past the cabinet face. You can install your new floor and use shoe base pin nailed to the cabinet face to cover the gap. If the tile is considerably thicker than your new material, then that will need to be addressed. I probably would not try to take ALL the tile out from under the cabinets. That will create other problems.

I had no tile under cabinets (no cabinets sitting directly on tile floor) as my cabinets are all on a slide so wasn't an issue. Getting the few square feet of tile out from under the slide was as big a job as the rest of the exposed tile. A real PITA.

You mentioned both layers of sub floor may be damaged. Hopefully the bottom layer sub-floor is less damaged than your picture. That looks like it's over the passenger steer. Water tightness from the underside will be critical.

Once I figure out if I have good subfloor under the tile I'll make a decision on how far I go. I was thinking about the same thing, just removing some of the tile.



The center portion of the bad area was bad with the second layer about as bad as the top, haven't figured out how far I have to go to get to good subfloor. That's tomorrows adventure.
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Old 12-18-2021, 07:47 AM   #11
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So I got far enough yesterday to know I am going to have to replace the bottom piece of the subfloor. This is the flooring that is exposed the road. When installed there is a piece of plastic type barrier on it.


What would be the recommendation as to what to do when installing a new piece of subfloor???

One thought that I had was to paint with a primer type paint and then spray it down with flexseal, which they advertise as the ultimate sealer. I will be able to have full access under some of this area but some of it is above the fuel tank, no way to access that so pretty much all of the prep work has to be done prior to installing the subfloor.

I can probably spray the edges of the pieces that are good and will remain in place but other then that I'm looking for suggestions.
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Old 12-18-2021, 08:14 AM   #12
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I would almost think you’d have to pre-fit all of the subfloor and make it ready to install then remove it paint or apply the exterior water/weather proof coating of choice and then install it before it dries or cures.

I’m wondering if old fashioned undercoating would work? I think that might have been used during the original building of these coaches……

Is that subfloor secured with self tapping fasteners?

Basement waterproofing type of paint on coating.
Maybe Tyvac that is used for home construction?
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Old 12-18-2021, 08:19 AM   #13
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How big of an area is damaged for the lower section plywood? Is there any steel support beams running under the area that is damaged?
How is that new lower piece of plywood going to be supported?

I do agree that it's more practical to prep everything before you install it. Hopefully the original plastic sheeting is in fairly good condition.
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Old 12-18-2021, 08:47 AM   #14
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There are metal supports (tubing) running across the opening, not sure on the spacing. Will try and put seams on these supports when possible, will improvise when I can't.

What I am thinking of is finding good subfloor, both first and second layers. I can over cut the top layer leaving a portion of the lower as a shelf to rest the top layer one to take the load.

I can probably install metal pieces to support the lower piece as it transitions to the good on the lower piece. Can probably use type silicone caulk to seal the seams on the lower piece new to old.

I should be able to get a good idea the extent of floor replacement today.
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