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Old 05-24-2019, 04:04 PM   #1
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New Thermostat

Hi,
Been reading about the install of new thermostat and before I begin, I want to ask about an what looks like a bleed line that runs from the highest point on the crossover pipe. It exits from the crossover pipe and joins into the surge tank without joining any other lines. It looks like it could function as an overflow line or also function as a bleed line without the pressure cap when filling the rad/lines
Any thoughts?
This is on an 05 Windsor 400 ISL
Don B
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Old 05-24-2019, 05:16 PM   #2
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Coolant runs into the coolant tank through that line. You don't have to worry about bleeding anything when you replace or add coolant. Just fill the tank to the line and start the engine. Why are you changing the thermostat?
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Old 05-25-2019, 05:47 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Barber View Post
Hi,
Been reading about the install of new thermostat and before I begin, I want to ask about an what looks like a bleed line that runs from the highest point on the crossover pipe. It exits from the crossover pipe and joins into the surge tank without joining any other lines. It looks like it could function as an overflow line or also function as a bleed line without the pressure cap when filling the rad/lines
Any thoughts?
This is on an 05 Windsor 400 ISL
Don B
I understand it is to allow blocked air to escape to the surge tank.

Bob
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Old 05-25-2019, 10:55 AM   #4
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Coolant runs into the coolant tank through that line. You don't have to worry about bleeding anything when you replace or add coolant. Just fill the tank to the line and start the engine. Why are you changing the thermostat?
Hi,
Experienced engine temps in the low 170’s then would suddenly rise to the normal 190’s. After a slow rise into the 200’s then a quick drop into the 170’s again. Feel the thermostat might be the cause
Don
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Old 05-25-2019, 01:19 PM   #5
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Hi,
Further info on the thermostat, still the original from 05. As we are original owners it has never been changed. Went to Cummins with serial number and they confirmed that it was a 180 degree model. Also suggested it was time to change when informed of the symptoms. Now have all supplies to do the changeover and new fluids. Still using Zerex HD with DCA4, as I,m a believer in if it isn’t broke don’t change
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Old 05-25-2019, 06:09 PM   #6
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That sounds like it might be an issue. I changed mine when I changed my coolant a couple years ago. It was 17 years old and since I had the engine drained, I went ahead and changed it.
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Old 05-27-2019, 01:15 PM   #7
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If you have another way of verifying the temp I would make sure your gage is telling you the truth. Monaco has a poor way of grounding the gages so you can't trust they are accurate. I use a ScanD and it is a great tool to know your correct temps, RPM, speed, pressures, and more. Even in the heat of the AZ desert my coach only gets in the 190s pulling a grade.
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Old 05-28-2019, 08:09 AM   #8
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If you have another way of verifying the temp I would make sure your gage is telling you the truth. Monaco has a poor way of grounding the gages so you can't trust they are accurate. I use a ScanD and it is a great tool to know your correct temps, RPM, speed, pressures, and more. Even in the heat of the AZ desert my coach only gets in the 190s pulling a grade.
The scanguageD is the way to go. Except for the air pressure gauge, I can't even tell what my dash gauges read with a quick glance down at them.
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Old 05-28-2019, 10:09 AM   #9
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The scanguageD is the way to go. Except for the air pressure gauge, I can't even tell what my dash gauges read with a quick glance down at them.
Air pressure is hoses so I'm no concerned with it. It reads correct as far as I know. Low position though.
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Old 05-28-2019, 05:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Barber View Post
Hi,
Further info on the thermostat, still the original from 05. As we are original owners it has never been changed. Went to Cummins with serial number and they confirmed that it was a 180 degree model. Also suggested it was time to change when informed of the symptoms. Now have all supplies to do the changeover and new fluids. Still using Zerex HD with DCA4, as I,m a believer in if it isnít broke donít change
Hello D Barber, I'm getting ready to change the coolant over to Peak Final Charge, after reading your post I'm going to change my thermostat as well. I'm not sure if it has ever been changed so a good time to do it. I checked with Cummins and they wanted 65.00 for the thermostat, called my local parts store and they had it for 28. Mine also is a 180 degree.
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Old 05-29-2019, 07:41 AM   #11
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I checked with Cummins and they wanted 65.00 for the thermostat, called my local parts store and they had it for 28. Mine also is a 180 degree.
Be careful what you buy from the local parts store - most of it is crap now days - driven by low-price competition (China made junk). I used to be a mechanic and the parts in most stores where quality brands (15 -20 years ago) - now they are all carrying the cheapest stuff they can get.

Napa is usually safe - but stay away from AutoZone and Discount Parts and the like. Sometimes its just not worth the risk to buy aftermarket parts. If you do buy from them bring your old part so you can at least compare the build quality of the OEM part to whatever they are selling you.
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Old 05-29-2019, 06:36 PM   #12
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I bought mine from Arkansas Valley Cummins on e-bay for about $35.
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Old 05-30-2019, 05:27 AM   #13
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Be careful what you buy from the local parts store - most of it is crap now days - driven by low-price competition (China made junk). I used to be a mechanic and the parts in most stores where quality brands (15 -20 years ago) - now they are all carrying the cheapest stuff they can get.

Napa is usually safe - but stay away from AutoZone and Discount Parts and the like. Sometimes its just not worth the risk to buy aftermarket parts. If you do buy from them bring your old part so you can at least compare the build quality of the OEM part to whatever they are selling you.
Absolutely agree with you Mike. Our yard used to look like a used car lot because we had so many children with their own car. Of course I was the one who had to keep them running and pay for the insurance. But that is another story. When an alternator would go out I would go down to the local AutoZone a purchase a new one. That one would usually only last about a year before it went bad. Soon learned to go to NAPA and pay a little more for a quality part that would last.

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Old 05-30-2019, 06:45 AM   #14
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When it comes to electrical switches at least...NAPA seams to buy the same crap...(Standard auto)...everyone buys this stuff...cheap china. You can find it on here when I went through my head light switch problem...I keep a spare now. I was surprised because it was in a NAPA box, but same mfg...sad how manufacturing has gone in the US.
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