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robertj1979 · 09-13-2015, 06:45 AM

I noticed last night that there is no AC power to the panel inside the coach even though the 50 amp power cord was connected. Checked circuit breakers and nothing had tripped. Being late decided just to hook up a 110 supply to keep the batteries charged thinking there could be a problem at the pedestal for the 50 amp supply. Ran a cord and confirmed that I had power and installed required adapters. I have a hard wired surge guard / transfer switch model 41260. Normally when I plug into a power source, I hear a click sound that seems to be normal when all is working properly. That sound is now not occurring when connecting to the power source. I am thinking that either the surge guard/ transfer switch or the power cord going to the transfer switch is bad. Any ideas appreciated. Planning on checking voltages with the multimeter later but wondering if I could be missing something.

shaman52 · 09-13-2015, 07:00 AM

Set Meter to 250 Volts AC and let us know what you find.

Old Scout · 09-13-2015, 07:02 AM

Start at pedestal and check for power all the way to rig--but sounds like X-fer switch or surge protector has failed. For this reason--dont like units that combine both functions into one. IF you replace, check out Progressive Industry surge protectors.....

robertj1979 · 09-13-2015, 07:23 AM

Thanks for quick reply. Checked pedestal as suggested and showing 110 volts at corners and 0 volts between ground and neutral. I normally hear a click sound following the short delay when plugged in but nothing now. I was going to start the generator a little later when not to wake the neighbors to see if I have power from that source. Are there any checks I should do at the transfer switch with the multimeter?

robertj1979 · 09-13-2015, 07:30 AM

Forgot to mention but showing 240 volts between hot 1 and hot 2.

robertj1979 · 09-13-2015, 08:03 AM

Was reading the surge guard 41260 help guide and checked voltages as recommended: Shore input from white wire to black wire is 120 volts. Also from white to red 120 volts.
0 volts between white wire and green wire. 0 volts showing on output side of white to red and white to black on shore side. I am thinking that from this I can determine I have a bad transfer switch but any thoughts appreciated.

Old Scout · 09-13-2015, 08:17 AM

Think we can all agree you are not getting power past the surge protector/ T-switch--dont need a volt meter to figure that out [smile]. T-switches usually default to genset so they have to "click" to transfer to shore power. Problem is, with a combined unit, if the surge unit checks both genset and shorepower and it has failed, you wont get power from either source. If surge protector has failed but doesnt check genset then you can eval whether its the t-switch. If breaker and pedestal power and cord all check out, I suspect your only option is to hard-wire around the combined surge protector until a service tech can check out the unit.

robertj1979 · 09-13-2015, 08:30 AM

Ok. Understood. I have found this switch for just a little over $200 and doesn't seem like it would be difficult to install myself. I will check to see if the generator side works and if it does was wondering about just disconnecting the generator input side and installing the shore input side there for a temporary fix until I can get the new one and not using the generator of course. The upgrade for this switch is a model 40250 and sells for about $700. Not sure I want to pay that right now. Will start generator shortly and see if it works.

robertj1979 · 09-13-2015, 09:04 AM

Went ahead and started the generator and have AC power from that source only. I guess I will be ordering a transfer switch/ surge protector... Thanks for assistance.

Old Scout · 09-13-2015, 10:31 AM

Assume the current surge protector is a Surge Guard product--one year guarantee. Suggest you seriously consider a Progressive industies product--lifetime warranty and outstanding customer service.
Curious--sounds like your current surge protector is combined with you transfer switch--if you just add a new surge protector, what happens to the old one and the built in x-fer switch? $200 is not much for a 50 amp protector--Quality????? I would install a PI protector and a separate Lyght ex-fer switch and be done with this issue for a long time--IMHO.....

robertj1979 · 09-13-2015, 11:54 AM

Agree on the quality of the Surge Guard product and a search has shown many problems with this model. It does seem almost "too inexpensive" given double duty as a surge protector and transfer switch. Thanks again for thoughts and assistance.

satkhalsa · 09-26-2019, 07:47 AM

Hello All. I am a newbie and want to thank everyone for the good advice that I found in this forum. I just bought a Bounder 1998 36 S. The Generator Onan Marquis 5500 Model 5.5 BGM-FA/26105H was working but no AC power. I checked the automatic transfer switch and no power coming there. So I checked the junction box no power. I checked the AVR pins on the generator side 2-3 no ohm reading, 9-10 showed in 80’s and 11-12 non. Ordered a Voltage regulator. Still not working. Cleaned the slips with slick stick which was pain until I used a dripp bit to expand the slits and checked the bushing they were good. After cleaning 3 times I had 120 volt in top circuit breaker but 60 on the bottom one it looked liked the breakers were too soft and I thought they might be the problem but continuity was there and voltage was there as well but only 60 volt on the bottom one. Then almost giving up on it. I checked the circuit breaker switch and pushed it towards the back rather than front as videos have suggested. All of a sudden had power in both breakers and power in the rig. I had been checking the breaker in off position. Was very happy that I finally had AC power in the rig. After 5 min of running the generator it was gasping for air or fuel and it shut off I tried to restart it but it did not. This also occurred once before but it came back up again prior to getting power in the rig. Please help. I think I would have to clean the carburetor and change the filter as it was sitting for years without running.

satkhalsa · 09-26-2019, 07:54 AM

I also forgot to mention that I took off the wire from the back of the circuit breaker and put it back, maybe that also needed cleaning and was not letting the power go through.

satkhalsa · 09-26-2019, 08:02 AM

So it seems like there were few problems one was I had been checking the breaker in off position but then again also checked in on position as well but did not get power until I took the wire off the back of the circuit breaker the other was I was under the impression the switch was in the on position if pushed to the front like many videos suggested. I am assuming it was just flipped by the previous owner, the third thing was cleaning the slips gave power after I changed the AVR. I did retest the old AVR and there was no voltage verifying I did need the AVR.