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Tdccmc · 08-21-2015, 06:22 PM

New to us 2008 Monaco Diplomat. First time running during hot summer days. While driving turned generator on, then set front AC on. However AC did not come on. ACs working fine on shore power 50amp. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong or what I should check?

Thanks for help
Tony

BFlinn181 · 08-21-2015, 06:29 PM

First, check that the circuit breakers on the generator are on. Turn off then turn back on to be sure, a tripped breaker can fool you. Next, you'll have to check the auto transfer switch. It should switch over to generator after a short delay. If you hear it click, it's trying to work. Check other 120 v lights or outlets. Also check that the circuit breakers in your service panel are all turned on. Good luck.

wa8yxm · 08-21-2015, 06:52 PM

First thought is a tripped circuit breaker on the Generator, though you should not have both A/C's on one breaker,,, Second is a question.. Did other 120 volt stuff (IE: Miocrowave) work, Did firdge switch to A/C or did it go Gas.. (Both breakers tripped?)

IF just one breaker powers up BOTH A/C's have your dealer re-balance the power panel. If he does not know what that means PM me the name of the service manager and his phone number. I'll contact them and quote them a price for teaching.

Tdccmc · 08-21-2015, 07:01 PM

Breaker off on generator, tested a/c came on. Thanks for help. Simply forgot to check that breaker.

gemert · 08-21-2015, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

First thought is a tripped circuit breaker on the Generator, though you should not have both A/C's on one breaker,,, Second is a question.. Did other 120 volt stuff (IE: Miocrowave) work, Did firdge switch to A/C or did it go Gas.. (Both breakers tripped?)

IF just one breaker powers up BOTH A/C's have your dealer re-balance the power panel. If he does not know what that means PM me the name of the service manager and his phone number. I'll contact them and quote them a price for teaching.

My genny only has one breaker on the genny itself. I think that was what he meant. Checking the microwave while on genny power is a great suggestion.

ShapeShifter · 08-22-2015, 08:58 AM

Glad you found the problem, the breakers on the generator are easy to miss. Keep an eye on it: when I have a breaker trip, I consider the first time to be a fluke, so I reset it and carry on. If it trips a second time, it's the beginning of a trend, and it's worth investigating why - is it an overload or a weak breaker?

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

though you should not have both A/C's on one breaker,,,

Where did the idea for a single breaker come from?

There was no mention of a single breaker, seems like this comment is from way out in left field?

I understand the concerns about having both air conditioners on a single leg, and/or on a single breaker. But I don't see how it applies to this discussion as there is no indication that the OP's issues might be related to something like this?

JohnBoyToo · 08-23-2015, 05:23 AM

I recall someone posted single vs dual breakers on the genset and it related to there was two breakers controlled by one switch ????
Maybe that's the distinction?

ShapeShifter · 08-23-2015, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnBoyToo

I recall someone posted single vs dual breakers on the genset and it related to there was two breakers controlled by one switch ????
Maybe that's the distinction?

Yes, a double pole breaker (two legs controlled simultaneously by one toggle) is quite common. In fact, that's the way my Onan is set up. They are most commonly used on 240 volt circuits where you want an overload on either leg to switch off both legs for safety.

But wa8yxm is clearly talking about both air conditioners being on the same leg/breaker, and I don't see any reason to jmo to that conclusion?

Tdccmc · 09-01-2015, 08:23 PM

After AC was running approximately 5 hours powered by genset while driving, the breaker in the back closet tripped. First checked the genset breaker at rest stop but appeared fine. Reset genset breaker just to be sure. Still no AC, so checked breaker in closet. Reset that breaker and AC came on.

So what would cause the breaker to trip? Vibration? Is this indicative of failing AC maybe freezing up? What maintenance should be done on AC? AC seems to work fine when RV is stationary. Should I take unit in for service?

By the way, so why do RV engineers/designers place breaker panels in closet behind sliding doors that can only be accessed when BR slide is extended? More logical place would be in same location as EMS system, accessible anytime.

Thanks for help. I'm not really looking for an answer to the breaker location question.

Tony

BFlinn181 · 09-01-2015, 08:39 PM

Most likely a worn circuit breaker. Have you cleaned the coils and filter on the air conditioner? Other than a starting capacitor or a new control board, there is little you can do when the compressor goes. It's a sealed system, the fan motor can be replaced, but not the compressor, evaporator or condenser. Also, they can't be recharged if they leak, adding piercing valves just opens you up more leaks.

96 Wideglide · 09-01-2015, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

First thought is a tripped circuit breaker on the Generator, though you should not have both A/C's on one breaker,,, Second is a question.. Did other 120 volt stuff (IE: Miocrowave) work, Did firdge switch to A/C or did it go Gas.. (Both breakers tripped?)

IF just one breaker powers up BOTH A/C's have your dealer re-balance the power panel. If he does not know what that means PM me the name of the service manager and his phone number. I'll contact them and quote them a price for teaching.

What if you have 3 AC's

?

Pretty sure my generator does'nt have 3 breakers

CJScepter · 09-01-2015, 10:56 PM

I have read some posts about AC's power draw, mine will start on fan at 4-5 amps, then when pump kicks in it will raise to 12-14, and when I had a bad reversing solenoid it would go to 17-18 amps and when solenoid would get too hot, reversing valve would drop and then it was a heatpump, pump refrigerant the other way(hot air now) and went back and forth till I could shut it down. I read as much as 30 amps on EMS panel! for just a second.
I replaced reversing solenoid and all is stable now.
Also dirty coils and condenser will cause AC to run at higher amp draw, thats next on bucket list, check and clean.
Hope you find your trouble.
John G.

ShapeShifter · 09-02-2015, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tdccmc

So what would cause the breaker to trip? Vibration? Is this indicative of failing AC maybe freezing up?

It could be a dirty AC drawing too much power.

Or it could be a weak breaker.

Or it could be normal: a breaker has two ways it can trip. One is an electromagnet that will pull the breaker open. This is used when there is a very large current draw (like a short in the wires) and the breaker needs to trip immediately. It usually takes much more than the rated load to get the magnet to trip the breaker. The other way is thermal: the current through the breaker is passing through a small heating element. The more current being drawn, the more it heats up. When it gets warm enough, the temperature will trip the breaker. It doesn't heat up right away (which is why there is the electromagnet for really bad overcurrent situations) so this heating effect gives it a "slow-blow" feature which is useful to handle the start-up surge of some loads, like an air conditioner. Now, if your breaker is in the back bedroom closet, behind the sliding door, and over the engine like mine is, that whole area tends to get rather warm while driving. It might have just been a case of the normal heat from the current flowing through it, combined with the ambient heat from the engine, working together to warm up the temperature inside the breaker enough to trip it?

Quote:

By the way, so why do RV engineers/designers place breaker panels in closet behind sliding doors that can only be accessed when BR slide is extended? More logical place would be in same location as EMS system, accessible anytime.

It's a matter of people wanting it to be hidden, and using a place where it's practical to run the wiring.

You say why not with the EMS? I assume you mean the Intellitec load management system? If that's the case, then it IS in the same place as the EMS, which is built into the breaker panel.

Perhaps you mean the same place as the Intellitec EMS display? If so, there are some issues with that. On my rig, that's in the center bathroom hall on a very thin wall. The wall would have to be made significantly thicker to accommodate the breaker panel, and that would eat into the space available in the bathroom. Furthermore, that wall is already full of a lot of 12 volt wiring for all of the controls. Codes require separation of low voltage and line voltage circuits, so separate wiring chases would have to be built into the wall, perhaps taking up more room.

On the very rare occasion that an AC breaker trips, I don't mind that it's blocked by the slide. There are other cabinets and drawers I need to access that are blocked by the slides, and those bother me more.

USMCDevilDog · 09-05-2015, 04:55 PM

Hopefully the OP is OK and I can hijack this thread. Was working on my new to me 2004 Holiday Rambler Imperial with a 7500 Onan diesel generator in the driveway. Hot day so I thought I would exercise the generator and cool down the RV as well. Fired up the generator, waited 5 minutes, and turned on both A/Cs. Both A/Cs came on and then the bedroom A/C went off. If I turned off the front A/C, the bedroom A/C would come back one. If I turned the front A/C back on, the bedroom A/C would go off in about 30 seconds. It seems that the generator cannot power both A/Cs at the same time. No problem when plugged in to shore power. Only TV, satellite, and DirecTV box on as I was working on them. 90 degree day with 70% humidity and altitude at 950. Thoughts appreciated.