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Old 12-05-2018, 02:49 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Migkiller View Post
Would this be the battery disconnect solenoid? Attachment 228164
That looks like the front Run Bay.
If that solenoid is powered from the Ignition Switch then it is not the "Salesmen's (Bat disconnect) Switch. Check the small terminal (coil pwr) for 12V with ignition switch on and off (leaving the Bat disconnect switch On) if that solenoid opens/closes with ignition switch On/Off then its not the solenoid your looking for.
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Old 12-05-2018, 03:06 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by CountryB View Post
That looks like the front Run Bay.
If that solenoid is powered from the Ignition Switch then it is not the "Salesmen's (Bat disconnect) Switch. Check the small terminal (coil pwr) for 12V with ignition switch on and off (leaving the Bat disconnect switch On) if that solenoid opens/closes with ignition switch On/Off then its not the solenoid your looking for.
The wiring diagram shows it to be the ignition solenoid. But I will troubleshoot it with your idea. Its the only solenoid I have found that looks like what I need !!
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Old 12-05-2018, 03:11 PM   #17
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That is likely it. Can you have someone toggle the switch by your door and see if you get a click out of the solenoid what that happens? That would absolutely verify that it is the one. If you don't hear a click or feel a "bump" when the switch is operated, it is possible that the solenoid coil is defective. Continue with the following.

If you use a voltmeter to check across the two SMALLER terminals while the switch is being operated, you can verify the proper operation of the switch and the conductors to the solenoid. You should see 12V between those two smaller terminals with the door switch is in the "ON" position, and zero volts when it is "OFF".

When you verify that the door switch is "ON", use your voltmeter to read between the two LARGER terminals. That voltage should be very low, on the order of 0.1 volts or less, when the door switch is "ON". It is likely that it will read over 12 volts when the switch is "OFF".

That solenoid should be fairly warm when the door switch is "ON", as it is held closed by the 12 volts applied to its coil terminals. If that device is bad, it is highly likely that a replacement will be readily available.
The wiring diagram shows it to be the ignition solenoid. But this is the only solenoid I have found so far that matches a battery disconnect solenoid. I will follow up on what you describe to do. Thanks
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Old 12-06-2018, 04:20 PM   #18
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Well...that solenoid pictured is the ignition solenoid. I swapped switches in the entry stairs panel with another switch and nothing changed. There is a battery cut off switch on the rear run electrical box, maybe that has went bad. I have looked high and low on the wiring diagram book and cannot find the switch panel that has the 'battery disconnect' and 5 other switches. That would help if it did then I could trace it to the solenoid, but maybe this coach doesn't have a disconnect solenoid, but just a battery disconnect switch.
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:27 PM   #19
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Our '94 Dynasty did NOT have a disconnect switch for either the house or the chassis battery. It did have a "salesman switch" controlled relay that was mounted on the forward wall of the engine compartment under the bed hatch.
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Old 12-07-2018, 05:48 PM   #20
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Our '94 Dynasty did NOT have a disconnect switch for either the house or the chassis battery. It did have a "salesman switch" controlled relay that was mounted on the forward wall of the engine compartment under the bed hatch.
Thanks...I will have a look see for the relay. I have looked hard at the wiring diagram book and see no 'Battery Disconnect Solenoid'. Its probably something simple I am over looking !!
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Old 12-07-2018, 06:02 PM   #21
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1997 Dynasty, Rear Power Panel, engine room, the Salesman Relay (Solenoid) is just above the larger Boost Relay (Solenoid).
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Old 12-07-2018, 06:20 PM   #22
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I will digress on my dc power dilemma ! Where I had it parked this summer, the 110 power from the house came disconnected. So the 2 house batteries were dead when I realized that the 110 power had come disconnected. This was over a 2 month span. Now to today....I went into the barn this morning and it smelled of battery fumes. I disconnected the 110 power....the battery was warm to touch. I took a reading and the batteries showed 14 volts. Came back 4 hours later and took a reading and the batteries showed 9 volts and dropping, it will be dead come tomorrow. So needless to say the batteries are not holding a charge...yes they are full of water. I assume by them going dead over a 2 month span has depleted there full output. So...could this be the problem with not getting any dc power ? Also do I need to remove the batteries and take them to a parts store and have them checked for load value ? If I have to replace them would it be better to install 4 6V batteries ? I am going to replace our Norcold with a residential refer...so I am leaning to go with the 4 6V ones.
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Old 12-07-2018, 06:37 PM   #23
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Start with the batteries. Keep a utility charger handy to top them off in case you are still troubleshooting after you put in the new batteries.

When all else fails follow the heavy wire from the + terminal of the battery bank.

The Salesmans Switch is also the Storage Switch and go to the same battery disconnect relay. It's just a semantics game.
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Old 12-07-2018, 06:42 PM   #24
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Here is the rear panel run. That black solenoid is labeled step solenoid in the wiring diagram. Not sure what that brown residue is...but I am thinking it got fried ! So this could be the salesman switch solenoid ?Click image for larger version

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Old 12-07-2018, 06:44 PM   #25
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1997 Dynasty, Rear Power Panel, engine room, the Salesman Relay (Solenoid) is just above the larger Boost Relay (Solenoid).
Ours is the same setup ! I just posted 2 photos of our panel. Thanks for posting, maybe the issue has been found !!!
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Old 12-07-2018, 06:49 PM   #26
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Start with the batteries. Keep a utility charger handy to top them off in case you are still troubleshooting after you put in the new batteries.

When all else fails follow the heavy wire from the + terminal of the battery bank.

The Salesmans Switch is also the Storage Switch and go to the same battery disconnect relay. It's just a semantics game.
Thanks for the advice ! Engineers and their diagrams. I am use to working on commercial aircraft....so ringing out wires can be a pain !
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