No DC Power

[Migkiller]

With 110V shore power connected ( rv is in the barn and connected to 110 house power ) I can't get any of the interior lights to work. All the 110 outlets work fine, although the 1 kitchen outlet tested and showed 'open netural'. Started the jenny up and nothing changes. The micro wave outlet is fine but the microwave will not operate. I do have a progressive EMS and this is what it shows... LN 1 120v 9a LN 2 120v 0a. The house batteries are charged up.

This all started when I moved the coach from being outside ( I had a 100' extension cord hooked up for shore power ) where everything worked fine. Then I built the barn and moved it in there 6 weeks ago. I have a 250 ft 110 extension cord running to the barn for power until I get new service to the barn hooked up. Could this be the problem ?

Any help or advice is welcome

Chuck

[twinboat]

Sure can, 250 feet is a long cord. Your pulling 9 amps so far. Adding a 12 amp microwave will drop your volts way down.

[onechaddude]

Sounds like your salesman switch by the entry door got turned off. Or the salesman switch solenoid has gone bad.

Chad

[doublechevy]

what gauge is that 250' extension cord. anything less than 10 gauge could be the reason for the microwave not working to much voltage drop under load 10 may also be pushing the limit also, hard to say without measuring voltage under load

[Migkiller]

Originally Posted by onechaddude

Sounds like your salesman switch by the entry door got turned off. Or the salesman switch solenoid has gone bad.

Chad

The salesman switch ( battery disconnect ) is off..... So if I want to have dc power the switch has to be on ? So you go to 'on' to connect and 'off' to disconnect..... One of those ass backward in a way switches!! I will see what happens tomorrow !

[Migkiller]

Originally Posted by doublechevy

what gauge is that 250' extension cord. anything less than 10 gauge could be the reason for the microwave not working to much voltage drop under load 10 may also be pushing the limit also, hard to say without measuring voltage under load

The cord is 12/2. Kinda thought this but why won't the microwave work when running the jenny and no shore power on. ? I do have a 7500 watt portable generator I use for the house when power goes out. I can hook it up right at the coach shore power receptacle and there should be little voltage drop ?

[Migkiller]

I have looked everywhere for the battery cut off solenoid ! No luck. There is a domestic battery cutoff switch on the main panel in the engine compartment. The only solenoid I found in the front panel was the ignition solenoid.

[CountryB]

I could not find a 1998 Dynasty manual on my quick search - but on the 2001, it has this switch near the entry door. Do you have an Owners Manual?

[Migkiller]

Originally Posted by CountryB

I could not find a 1998 Dynasty manual on my quick search - but on the 2001, it has this switch near the entry door. Do you have an Owners Manual?

The 'salesman switch' is on the left side of the step entry stairs. I am looking for the solenoid that this switch connects to. Thanks

[CountryB]

I see. On my Beaver (Monaco) it is located in the rear electrical box (above battery tray). In the zoomed-out photo it is located inside that upper compartment closest to hinge side. Maybe you Monaco is similar.

[Migkiller]

Originally Posted by CountryB

I see. On my Beaver (Monaco) it is located in the rear electrical box (above battery tray). In the zoomed-out photo it is located inside that upper compartment closest to hinge side. Maybe you Monaco is similar.

No. I have 2 battery trays on the right side of the coach just aft of the rear duals. Electric box is in the engine compt. The maze of wires in these coaches makes a man's head spin !

[Migkiller]

Would this be the battery disconnect solenoid?

[K7JV]

That is likely it. Can you have someone toggle the switch by your door and see if you get a click out of the solenoid what that happens? That would absolutely verify that it is the one. If you don't hear a click or feel a "bump" when the switch is operated, it is possible that the solenoid coil is defective. Continue with the following.

If you use a voltmeter to check across the two SMALLER terminals while the switch is being operated, you can verify the proper operation of the switch and the conductors to the solenoid. You should see 12V between those two smaller terminals with the door switch is in the "ON" position, and zero volts when it is "OFF".

When you verify that the door switch is "ON", use your voltmeter to read between the two LARGER terminals. That voltage should be very low, on the order of 0.1 volts or less, when the door switch is "ON". It is likely that it will read over 12 volts when the switch is "OFF".

That solenoid should be fairly warm when the door switch is "ON", as it is held closed by the 12 volts applied to its coil terminals. If that device is bad, it is highly likely that a replacement will be readily available.

[walt2137]

Chuck put a meter on it and get someone to switch it on and off, most folks complete remove the troublesom thing, it good for just what its name says Saleman switch.