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Old 04-26-2011, 08:55 PM   #1
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No Exterior Marker "Running" Lights

I have head lights, dash lights, turn signals, but no running lights. I even have over head lights in the cockpit when I twist my head light switch, but no running lights. I pulled the Monaco manual and looked up my fuse panels which led me outside under the drivers side compartment. I checked fuse # 34 in the Front Distribution Panel (the big one with three wing nuts holding the cover on) and the 7.5 amp fuse was good. I then checked Monaco 1 (under the big fuse box) and the Marker lights - 20 A checked good on continuity, so I moved on to the relays and pulled the marker lights. From the diagram on the relay, the continuity checked out, but I'm not sure I did it correctly given the connecting dots reference on the relay, but when I check continuity touched the pins where the connecting dots were connecting, I got a beep on my meter indicating good throughput. I then noticed that the left turn and right turn relays were the same brand, number, etc as the relay for the marker lights, so I swapped the right turn with the marker lights and went inside the coach and first tested the right turn signal and it worked, so I then did a drum roll like Chevy did on Christmas Vacation and pulled the headlight switch, ran outside and no running "marker" lights. I did some more research on the forum and found several threads talking about bad switches. I pulled my switch and check for voltage at every wire and from what I could tell, all was working. To be on the safe side, I purchased a new switch from Advanced Auto Parts ( 1973 Chevy C10 light switch ) and installed it and it didn't help.

Any suggestions on what to do or test next?
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:51 PM   #2
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My Freightliner chassis has a lamp control module under the dash forward of the steering column. In our case it is attached to the firewall with velcro and has two large plugs connecting it to the wiring bundles.

We had a problem with marker and all lights on the back of the coach inop a few weeks ago. Replacing this module solved the problem. It was a simple plug and play fix I did myself.

Not sure of your chassis, but hope this points you towards a possible solution.
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:24 AM   #3
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Thank you. Does anyone know if the Roadmaster chassis has a similar lamp controller?
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:42 AM   #4
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I had an issue kinda like yours, verifythat the bulbs in your turn signals are the correct ones. My signals had the wrong bulbs, I verified with my manual, went to auto parts got the right bulb and presto my running lights worked again. Give it a shot and see.
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:51 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUNDLC View Post
I had an issue kinda like yours, verifythat the bulbs in your turn signals are the correct ones. My signals had the wrong bulbs, I verified with my manual, went to auto parts got the right bulb and presto my running lights worked again. Give it a shot and see.
WOW, Thank you RUNDLC, I have separate turn signal lights up above my brake/running lights. Are your running, turn and brakes all in one bulb?
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Old 04-27-2011, 08:00 AM   #6
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Do you have good grounds feeding your running lamps?
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Old 04-27-2011, 08:07 AM   #7
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Do you have good grounds feeding your running lamps?
That is a good question, where and how would I begin tracing the ground feeding my running lights?
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:27 AM   #8
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GP, No my sigs are seperate and on the bumper. My issue was that there are two small "nibs" (don't know what else to call them) and they insert into the socket and then turn to lock. The ones that were there when I bought the rig would not lock into place, so the correct current or ground didn't to the running lights.
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Old 04-27-2011, 05:19 PM   #9
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Find a running light closest to the fuse panel.
The grounds could be loop to each lamp socket or run back from each lamp and twisted in a bunch or go back to ground screw on 12V panel.
Which you can take a look at the panel and see if there is a ground buss with individual screws for ground wires you may have a loose screw, vibration can make them come loose. Another problem if its not a screw it maybe a poor wire crimp connection for ground wires.
You can also run a temp wire to the chassis frame or battery negative post and with a meter see if you have continuity from each lamp ground.
You may in fact if running lamp switch is on the lamps may come on at one of the lamps.
You have checked everything else in light circuit you only need the ground side checked out.
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Old 04-27-2011, 08:51 PM   #10
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Issues resolved !! I appreciate everone that has helped me trouble shoot this. It turned out to be the 20 amp fuse marked "Marking Lights". That is one of the first ones I checked and found good with my ohm meter, however I decided to plug a new fuse in and everything came on! The fuse must be bad somehow but it still passes my test on continuity. I've learned a lot in the past few days with your help. I'm new to the MH world (6 months). I live in north alabama and half of the state is without power and the are reporting it will be out for 4 days! The motorhome is running half of my house right now! Pray for the injured...at least 40 dead from Biirmingham to Huntsville.
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Old 04-28-2011, 12:19 AM   #11
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Glad your all safe, sorry for the loses encountered in your state and others its been a ruff spring, stay safe.
MH's come in handy in times like your in right now.
A fuse can be ok its the contact slot its in by removing and replacing you cleaned the spring contacts of fuse holder. Also the fuse may look good through glass or plastic but has a hairline break between fuse pin and fuse link.
Glad your all set. Welcome to the world of RVing.
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