No Fire

[BayouBoy63]

Chassis batteries showing 12.9v but nothing at the ignition??? Headlights not working but step and well cover working. Everything else is pretty much house battery and is working. Bad relay somewhere??? 2007 HR Endeavor

[CountryB]

Have you looked at the chassis battery disconnect switch. Check for power on both sides of the switch.

[Windecker]

I would assume that when you turn the key to the run position you are not hearing you normal bumps, beeps, clicks and such...

I had this happen to me years ago, was just the 12 volt ignition relay in the forward run box. I think there were two of them. I could turn the key to run, walk outside and tap on the relay with a screwdriver handle, it would click, come alive and be good till the next key switch cycle.

Not sure if that is your issue, just worth a try to get going easy.

One note though, two schools of thought, if it works, drive on and fix it as soon as you can and risk it failing while driving (which normally does not happen once engaged). And/or two, identify it and fix it before moving.

Many things it could be, but this is a common problem area.
Windecker

Originally Posted by BayouBoy63

Chassis batteries showing 12.9v but nothing at the ignition??? Headlights not working but step and well cover working. Everything else is pretty much house battery and is working. Bad relay somewhere??? 2007 HR Endeavor

[K7JV]

I don't know how close your configuration is to the '06 Dynasty, but our has four circuit boards and two breakers in the rear run box that are on the load side of the chassis battery disconnect switch. Board R1 has the start solenoid and the ignition. Board R2 has the back-up and brake lights. Board R3 has the fuel filter and A/C clutch. Board R4 has the step cover, tow marker lights, Sanicon, condenser fan and power reels. One breaker is for tow vehicle power and the other is the engine start solenoid.

The "common denominator" that I see is the feed from Lug #2 (second from the left) to those four circuit boards and those two circuit breakers.

The headlights and quite a bit of other systems are on Lug #1, thru a 150 amp breaker that feeds from Lug #2. Lug #2 is the source, so if what you say is powered and what you say is not, I am suspecting the feed from Lug #1 to the four boards and the two breakers.

If your coach isn't like our's, I'm sorry for the boring post. Good luck to you!

[RobRoy]

Originally Posted by BayouBoy63

Chassis batteries showing 12.9v but nothing at the ignition??? Headlights not working but step and well cover working. Everything else is pretty much house battery and is working. Bad relay somewhere??? 2007 HR Endeavor

Possibly Inadvertently bumped the rear run switch?

[BayouBoy63]

Thanks for the replies. All the relays tested good, 3 in front run bay and 2 in rear bay. I tested anything that mentioned ignition. Fuses good also. I'm only getting 6.9 volts on the hot leg to the ignition switch and when I turn the key it drops to 2.7 and no other leg coming out of it gets hot? A lil confused at this point, could it be the ignition switch itself??? Is 6.9v normal to the key? I couldn't find a solenoid, am I over looking one somewhere?
Oh, 12.8 volts in and out of the battery cutoff.

[Windecker]

I don't have my diagram in front of me so I could easily be wrong.
I have no idea how the relays could test good which tells me they energise, 12-14 volts in and out and stuff not powering up?
If that's the case sure sounds like an open power or ground main cable or popped main breaker.

I was thinking the ignition switch just closes the relays which are testing operational.

Hopefully someone can chime in and correct me on that!
Windecker

[Windecker]

Oh yea, also ignition switch unloaded (off) position voltage sound wicked low. A bit harder to measure accurately loaded. I can't imagine Monaco restricting ignition voltage. Is there a chance that low voltage is not pulling the relays in?

Where does the ignition switch pull it's power from? Tske a look there and see if it's line voltage, regulated voltage or stepped down voltage.
Windecker.

It just seems suspicious.

[BayouBoy63]

Windecker, you can test relays by putting hot to 86 and ground to 85, you should hear it click, leave it hot and use a mutitester to check continuity between 87 and 30.
I was able to put 13.2 volts to ignition hot (the one reading 6.9) from a "house" source and she acted normal and fired up. I disconnected this "jumper" immediately and everthing worked fine for about 6 cycles and now Im back to low voltage coming to ignition. Will investigate more tomorrow.

[Mekanic]

sounds like there are bad Grounds somewhere.

Run a extra with a jumper cable and see if everything is suddenly fixed.

[BayouBoy63]

When all else fails, start over.
Wow, corroded ground wire inside "eye" connection. It was clean and tight but wire was shot. We're rolling!!! Thanks for input guys, it kept me sane, lol

[Windecker]

As frustrating as all that was for you, it was a cheap fix which is awesome.

Someone will take advantage of this experience later which is the point of this forum
Windecker

Originally Posted by BayouBoy63

When all else fails, start over.
Wow, corroded ground wire inside "eye" connection. It was clean and tight but wire was shot. We're rolling!!! Thanks for input guys, it kept me sane, lol

[t55watson]

Originally Posted by BayouBoy63

When all else fails, start over.
Wow, corroded ground wire inside "eye" connection. It was clean and tight but wire was shot. We're rolling!!! Thanks for input guys, it kept me sane, lol

Thanks for the fix reply. Not all OP's do that.

[K7JV]

I give up. What is an "eye" connection?