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Old 08-09-2019, 05:33 AM   #1
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Norcold 1200LRIM

I have a 99 Monaco Windsor with a 1200 LRIM fridge which has been working flawlessly for years, when I came home and plugged in the landline after a couple days I happened to check the fridge for something and it was warm and I could not hear it, unplugged the landline and the propane started and I left it run and the fridge does not get cool.I removed the cover for the board and checked the 3 fuses, all good, checked the fuse in the red 12V wire it was good. it also has 120V to the board, if I unplug it the propane starts but as soon as I plug the 120V back in everything stops. Should I assume it is the board or is the something else I should do.
Thanks Superpro14
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Old 08-09-2019, 06:51 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superpro14 View Post
I have a 99 Monaco Windsor with a 1200 LRIM fridge which has been working flawlessly for years, when I came home and plugged in the landline after a couple days I happened to check the fridge for something and it was warm and I could not hear it, unplugged the landline and the propane started and I left it run and the fridge does not get cool.I removed the cover for the board and checked the 3 fuses, all good, checked the fuse in the red 12V wire it was good. it also has 120V to the board, if I unplug it the propane starts but as soon as I plug the 120V back in everything stops. Should I assume it is the board or is the something else I should do.
Thanks Superpro14
Before I changed out my norcold, I had a similar problem. There was a fuse inside the black control box on the back of the fridge.
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Old 08-09-2019, 07:33 AM   #3
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Cooling Unit?

I assume that you tried it on gas overnight, not just for a couple of hours. I'm surprised you didn't get a NOCO error. If the burner is on (you can feel the heat and hear the flame from the back of the unit) and it doesn't cool, it isn't the board. My guess is that it is the cooling unit. If yours is original, I suggest getting an Amish-built replacement from JC Refrigeration. (I had mine installed by my local shop, but had to go to Shipshewana, IN because they didn't install it right. I loved that trip and wish I had just gone there originally. I love the fridge now too.) It could also be that the exhaust fans aren't running or the chimney is clogged.

If the burner doesn't run or shuts down with the fridge still warm it is most likely the board, the thermistor or the cooling unit. To test the thermistor you can just unplug it inside the fridge. The white twisted pair of wires will just unplug, which just lets it run full bore without regard to interior temperature. If isn't running on gas, you should test AC operation. Unplug the elements and "ohm" them out. If memory serves, they should read about 65 ohms. If hey test OK, plug them back in and try to run it on AC. Measure for 110 VAC where the elements plug into the board. If all seems well it is most likely the cooling unit, but could be a chimney or fan problem here as well.
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Old 08-10-2019, 02:21 PM   #4
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Instead of sinking a lot of repair money in an old unit, change out the cooling unit with a JC Refrigeration mod. https://jc-refrigeration.com/ You keep your same cabinet but put in new cooling unit. I just did the 110 conversion and it works great. The freezer stays at 0 to -3 and the fridge stays about 32-34. I just got back from a 30 day trip in the hot Texas heat, so I say it got a good testing.
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Old 08-10-2019, 08:05 PM   #5
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Has the Norcold had the recall done on it. If it senses too much heat it will trip and a red light will appear on the box. This can be reset with a strong magnet (do a search on this) but if you have a real problem it will trip again.

Mine finally went south last year and I am planning on installing a Samsung at some point.
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Old 08-11-2019, 04:34 AM   #6
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Norcold 1200

Thanks to All for replying to my thread, as far as I can tell it ha never had the recall, I can not see the recall unit I have seen pics of. I am going to the dealer on Monday to check out the recall, I found all the info and it falls in the required #'s etc. It was really hot when this happened, and the MH was not level, I'm thinking it had to have tripped out as the board seems OK. Does anyone know the proper procedure for resetting the Board I believe I read ground out pin #15 but am unsure exactly the right way to do it.
Thanks Superpro14
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Old 08-11-2019, 05:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klcdenver View Post
Instead of sinking a lot of repair money in an old unit, change out the cooling unit with a JC Refrigeration mod. https://jc-refrigeration.com/ You keep your same cabinet but put in new cooling unit. I just did the 110 conversion and it works great. The freezer stays at 0 to -3 and the fridge stays about 32-34. I just got back from a 30 day trip in the hot Texas heat, so I say it got a good testing.
X2 very happy with my JC unit 110 unit also.
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Old 08-11-2019, 11:42 AM   #8
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Does anyone here have the JC 12 volt compressor unit and are you happy with it and what is the cost of the unit...I'm thinking of having them install it.

Not trying to hijack this thread...
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Old 08-11-2019, 12:05 PM   #9
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Does anyone here have the JC 12 volt compressor unit and are you happy with it and what is the cost of the unit...I'm thinking of having them install it.

Not trying to hijack this thread...
I replyed above that I have the JC 110v unit I actually have the 12v unit and it has been great....very happy with it. Tried to edit my mistake but it would not let me. Very low draw about 1 amp that the installer measured.
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Old 08-11-2019, 12:34 PM   #10
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Did you have JC install it or did you do it yourself?
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Old 08-11-2019, 12:36 PM   #11
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That vintage of 1200 does NOT have the 'NoCo' error code.
Fridge just shuts down....no cooling can be detected on freezer back plate or food compartment fins


Original Reset Procedure
https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/appliances/noco_old.pdf


I'm confused on the FUSES you checked
"I removed the cover for the board and checked the 3 fuses, all good, checked the fuse in the red 12V wire it was good."
Only 2 fuses on 1200 circuit board....
AC Fuse (glass one)...5A or 8A
DC Fuse (auto blade) ..5A


Fuse in RED 12V wire?
Is that the MAIN DC Fuse?


LEVEL.........
Off level will disrupt coolant gravity flow......resulting in overheating condiction and fridge not cooling down
Ventilation...airflow is critical ---do fans run?


Force cool (see info in PM I sent)


1st thing to do is inspect around burner area for ANY discoloration/yellowish residue.
Cooling tube/boiler section LEAK.....cooling unit DEAD
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Old 08-11-2019, 02:21 PM   #12
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We were in Arizona last winter and had it installed there.
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Old 08-11-2019, 02:42 PM   #13
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We were in Arizona last winter and had it installed there.
So they were Quartzsite installing units?
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Old 08-11-2019, 03:02 PM   #14
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Yes on Quartzite, a Norcold certified mobile tech that was recommended by the park I stay at. I have his contact information if you need it.
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