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Old 09-21-2020, 11:21 PM   #1
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Norcold Door Seals - How do you tell if they are gone?

Hi guys!

I still have a Norcold 4 door (1200 ?) and have not got around to replacing it yet with a residential.

I'm noticing water leaking onto the floor and running towards the bathroom. When I looked into it I'm seeing that it seems to be coming from between the two doors. I can shine a flashlight in there with the door closed and see quite a bit of condensation that seems to pool up and then leak on the floor.

Would this be an indication that the door seals are leaking? I see lots of posts about that but none about how you actually tell. I can't see anything wrong with them (as in missing pieces etc).

Why do I get the feeling I'm going to have to foot another big bill, this time for a fridge
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Old 09-21-2020, 11:27 PM   #2
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way back when I had an absorption fridge I was told to try to pull a dollar bill thru the seal to test it .... good luck !
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Old 09-22-2020, 12:02 AM   #3
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Are you sure your drain tube on the back is not plugged?


Quote:
Originally Posted by BobJones View Post
Hi guys!

I still have a Norcold 4 door (1200 ?) and have not got around to replacing it yet with a residential.

I'm noticing water leaking onto the floor and running towards the bathroom. When I looked into it I'm seeing that it seems to be coming from between the two doors. I can shine a flashlight in there with the door closed and see quite a bit of condensation that seems to pool up and then leak on the floor.

Would this be an indication that the door seals are leaking? I see lots of posts about that but none about how you actually tell. I can't see anything wrong with them (as in missing pieces etc).

Why do I get the feeling I'm going to have to foot another big bill, this time for a fridge
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Old 09-22-2020, 06:37 AM   #4
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Send a message via ICQ to Ivylog
Even good deals will not stop water. C2 on checking your drain tube.
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Old 09-22-2020, 07:51 AM   #5
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Pray that you don't NEED to replace your door seals on the Norcold. Our seals aren't bad, but have torn in a couple of places though not an issue unless you are a bit obsessive like I can be when it comes to things being not quite right. But after considerable research, I learned that they can not be replaced. The entire door needs to be replaced to "replace" just a $5 piece of rubber!
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Old 09-22-2020, 08:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K7JV View Post
Pray that you don't NEED to replace your door seals on the Norcold. Our seals aren't bad, but have torn in a couple of places though not an issue unless you are a bit obsessive like I can be when it comes to things being not quite right. But after considerable research, I learned that they can not be replaced. The entire door needs to be replaced to "replace" just a $5 piece of rubber!

When the edges tear you can use gorilla black tape. Itís a perfect size to put over the seals that are torn.
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Old 09-22-2020, 10:01 PM   #7
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None of them are torn, as far as I can tell, but there is condensation that appears to leak out around the seal(s) between the lower doors. The drain tray at the rear of the fridge has never been even close to full so I'm guessing the drain is fine.
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Old 09-22-2020, 10:50 PM   #8
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Norcold 1200
Divider Heater
The divider heater is permanently "foamed" between the divider separating the freezer and fresh food compartment.
The controls constantly monitor power board voltage output to the heater through built in diagnostics.
Turning the refrigerator on automatically send power to the heater

Moisture/condensation control......divider heater is NOT replaceable

Divider Heater gets DC from the 16 pin connector on Lower Circuit Board
SN 832170 & Lower it would be Pins #7 (Neg) and #12 (Pos)
SN 832171 and higher it would be Pins #2 (Neg) and #12 (pos)


Bad door seals would allow warm air to be drawn into freezer and/or food compartments resulting in heavy ice formation
*Freezer...top
*Food compartment...Fins
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Old 09-26-2020, 10:33 PM   #9
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Thanks Biscuit!

I'm not seeing too much frost build up in the freezer compartments or the fins. I do think it's defrosting every once in a while though because sometimes it's fairly warm inside and then gets cold again.

The moisture I'm seeing drip down off the doors seems to be condensation. It can be seen vertically between the two large lower doors, right between them with the doors closed. When I open the doors I often get a water drop on the floor that came off the doors.

So I'm not sure what is going on. But I am thinking (again) that the smart move would probably be to bite the bullet and put in a residential fridge. The cost is one thing, but, what's interesting is that rather than buy one cash I saw they had zero interest financing for a little more than $50 a month. When I did the power calculation I'm pretty sure the energy savings alone would more/less cover the cost of the fridge over 3 years!

But the real issue that keeps me from doing it is the work
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Old 09-26-2020, 11:15 PM   #10
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Did you ever check to see if the drain tube was open?





Quote:
Originally Posted by BobJones View Post
Thanks Biscuit!

I'm not seeing too much frost build up in the freezer compartments or the fins. I do think it's defrosting every once in a while though because sometimes it's fairly warm inside and then gets cold again.

The moisture I'm seeing drip down off the doors seems to be condensation. It can be seen vertically between the two large lower doors, right between them with the doors closed. When I open the doors I often get a water drop on the floor that came off the doors.

So I'm not sure what is going on. But I am thinking (again) that the smart move would probably be to bite the bullet and put in a residential fridge. The cost is one thing, but, what's interesting is that rather than buy one cash I saw they had zero interest financing for a little more than $50 a month. When I did the power calculation I'm pretty sure the energy savings alone would more/less cover the cost of the fridge over 3 years!

But the real issue that keeps me from doing it is the work
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Old 09-26-2020, 11:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Did you ever check to see if the drain tube was open?
You mean the drip tray under the fins? It never has any water in it. If that's what you mean, it must be clear.
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Old 09-26-2020, 11:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobJones View Post
Thanks Biscuit!

I'm not seeing too much frost build up in the freezer compartments or the fins. I do think it's defrosting every once in a while though because sometimes it's fairly warm inside and then gets cold again.

The moisture I'm seeing drip down off the doors seems to be condensation. It can be seen vertically between the two large lower doors, right between them with the doors closed. When I open the doors I often get a water drop on the floor that came off the doors.

So I'm not sure what is going on. But I am thinking (again) that the smart move would probably be to bite the bullet and put in a residential fridge. The cost is one thing, but, what's interesting is that rather than buy one cash I saw they had zero interest financing for a little more than $50 a month. When I did the power calculation I'm pretty sure the energy savings alone would more/less cover the cost of the fridge over 3 years!

But the real issue that keeps me from doing it is the work
Using a voltmeter set to DC Voltage check if 'divider heater' is getting voltage
Divider Heater gets DC from the 16 pin connector on Lower Circuit Board
SN 832170 & Lower it would be Pins #7 (Neg) and #12 (Pos)
SN 832171 and higher it would be Pins #2 (Neg) and #12 (pos)
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Old 09-27-2020, 02:19 PM   #13
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Did you make sure the end of the hose was open? You have to pinch it to open it.



Quote:
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You mean the drip tray under the fins? It never has any water in it. If that's what you mean, it must be clear.
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Old 09-27-2020, 02:44 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Did you make sure the end of the hose was open? You have to pinch it to open it.
OP stated drip tray under fins is dry

That is not cause of condensation on exterior door frame of his Fridge
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