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Old 10-15-2021, 11:14 AM   #1
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Oh no. Engine won't start. Signature 2005

We are at an RV park in TN and had a repairman fixing the front slide because something was causing it to come in strangely, the seal was hanging loose at front and there was some gunk at the top of the slide. So the slide got fixed but now the engine won't start. We had the engine checked out and serviced at Cummins in June. Repairman checked the "engine won't start flow chart" and found the battery isolator was very hot. Would appreciate any ideas what to do next. Thanks.
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Old 10-15-2021, 11:25 AM   #2
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Sounds like a bad contact on the battery isolator.
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Old 10-15-2021, 11:29 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artdeco View Post
We are at an RV park in TN and had a repairman fixing the front slide because something was causing it to come in strangely, the seal was hanging loose at front and there was some gunk at the top of the slide. So the slide got fixed but now the engine won't start. We had the engine checked out and serviced at Cummins in June. Repairman checked the "engine won't start flow chart" and found the battery isolator was very hot. Would appreciate any ideas what to do next. Thanks.
elaborate on 'It won't start'.

Does engine turn over but doesn't start, or does it not even turn over???
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Old 10-15-2021, 12:01 PM   #4
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The isolator solenoid will be hot if on shore power. It's engaged so that the chassis battery is charging thru the house charging system.

Many systems will lockout the engine starting if the slides are out. Since that's where he worked, he should be looking for a lockout switch and wiring around the slide.
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Old 10-15-2021, 12:50 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies. Completely odd thing that caused the problem: repair guy's helper measured to cut a plexiglass cover for the one that was missing over the rear run box and he must have touched a switch labelled "rear" in the top left side of the box. Once found, problem solved. Engine started. Apparently that switch can start the engine from the rear. I guess it would need the key to be in the ignition and it wasn't,t when the helper touched it.

Windsor - the engine was just dead, not a sound. We suspected it was some connection because we had had the engine checked out and there's been no problem this past month of driving most every day.

twin boat - that is good to know about the isolator. Its always good to know that something is normal.
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Old 10-15-2021, 01:17 PM   #6
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Yup, the rear start issue comes up about every 3-4 months.

I've had it happen to me twice when I hit it while checking something in the engine compartment. First time took some time to figure out. Second time it was quicker.

Just something you have to remember.
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Old 10-15-2021, 04:00 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by artdeco View Post
Thanks for the replies. Completely odd thing that caused the problem: repair guy's helper measured to cut a plexiglass cover for the one that was missing over the rear run box and he must have touched a switch labelled "rear" in the top left side of the box. Once found, problem solved. Engine started. Apparently that switch can start the engine from the rear. I guess it would need the key to be in the ignition and it wasn't,t when the helper touched it.

Windsor - the engine was just dead, not a sound. We suspected it was some connection because we had had the engine checked out and there's been no problem this past month of driving most every day.

twin boat - that is good to know about the isolator. Its always good to know that something is normal.
Always look where the last guy worked, even if it was you.
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Old 10-15-2021, 05:29 PM   #8
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Good advice
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Old 10-15-2021, 07:09 PM   #9
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That's for sure

I think I'll frame that in big letters "Always look where the last guy worked, even if it was you."

Thanks all!
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Old 10-15-2021, 08:13 PM   #10
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That's also why it can be a good idea not to attack too many things at once without a shakedown in between. Less steps to backtrack.
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I think I'll frame that in big letters "Always look where the last guy worked, even if it was you."

Thanks all!
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Old 10-16-2021, 10:08 AM   #11
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Regarding the BigBoy, "isolator" solenoid. It can be taken apart, contacts cleaned, and reassembled. There's a document on the procedure somewhere (either here on on the Monacoers site if your in that forum).

There's also a thread on replacing the Big Boy with a Blue Sea ML-ACR, probably in both places.
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Old 10-16-2021, 12:17 PM   #12
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Replacing

Thanks, Rick. I will look into it. The repair guy yesterday said that battery isolator was very hot.
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Old 10-16-2021, 12:25 PM   #13
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153stars, that's a good idea and in this instance it was the owner of the repair shop and his helper. So more chances for a mistake.
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Old 10-19-2021, 05:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
The isolator solenoid will be hot if on shore power. It's engaged so that the chassis battery is charging thru the house charging system.

Many systems will lockout the engine starting if the slides are out. Since that's where he worked, he should be looking for a lockout switch and wiring around the slide.
Uh, no not on the Holiday Rambler I own, and not on any I know of. That isolator is to charge the house batteries while the engine is running, not the other way around. If you want the chassis batteries to charge when plugged into shore power you have to install a separate battery charger...

Why the OP's isolator is getting hot is something that he has to do diagnostics on.
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