2006 Monaco, generator will run fine on it's own, and everyting powers up.
Turn either of the 2 AC's on and it kills the generator once the compressors kick on. Does the same thing on a portable generator that is big enough to run just 1 AC. Plug motorhome into barn 50 amp and both AC's will run like normal. So leaning towards ruling out any AC issues. Someone local mentioned the Intellitec EMS switch may be bad. Status bar did flicker a couple times as generator was powering up a couple times. All breakers have been shut off and turned back on, same issue. Any other suggestions? Transfer switch was replaced 5 years ago. Invertor seems to be charging and working as should.
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I was 5 weeks into a trip. I was running the generator in the evening when all of a sudden it died, just went to bed. Next day drove to my next stop and the generator wouldn't run. Shut off all the breakers and the generator would run, started turning on one breaker at a time, got to one of the breakers in the subpanel for the inverter and it died.
Cut my trip short and headed home. Initially I thought it was the inverter, did some testing and something didn't seem right but I called a repair shop and the tech said it sounded like the inverter was fine. He gave me some tips to try and find the problem.
So I put the inverter back in and started looking at each circuit, the bedroom outlet circuit was the one causing me a problem. So I started checking the ohms across the hot, neutral, and ground and found I had a problem where the wire came out of the main service panels and went into the ceiling. I suspect the wires were barely shorted and the generator was sensing this and shutting down. Ran fine with that one circuit shut off.
I suspect mice/rodent damage but no way to confirm.
But I was able to revamp the wiring to make all the outlets work and that solved my problem.
So if the one AC unit is the problem I'd check the wires to make sure they weren't compromised. If they ohm good then I'd start looking at the AC unit. One test you could try is to put a plug end on the AC unit and try to run it off an extension cord.
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Jim J
2002 Monaco Windsor 38 PKD Cummins ISC 350 8.3L
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/5.7 Hemi
I was 5 weeks into a trip. I was running the generator in the evening when all of a sudden it died, just went to bed. Next day drove to my next stop and the generator wouldn't run. Shut off all the breakers and the generator would run, started turning on one breaker at a time, got to one of the breakers in the subpanel for the inverter and it died.
Cut my trip short and headed home. Initially I thought it was the inverter, did some testing and something didn't seem right but I called a repair shop and the tech said it sounded like the inverter was fine. He gave me some tips to try and find the problem.
So I put the inverter back in and started looking at each circuit, the bedroom outlet circuit was the one causing me a problem. So I started checking the ohms across the hot, neutral, and ground and found I had a problem where the wire came out of the main service panels and went into the ceiling. I suspect the wires were barely shorted and the generator was sensing this and shutting down. Ran fine with that one circuit shut off.
I suspect mice/rodent damage but no way to confirm.
But I was able to revamp the wiring to make all the outlets work and that solved my problem.
So if the one AC unit is the problem I'd check the wires to make sure they weren't compromised. If they ohm good then I'd start looking at the AC unit. One test you could try is to put a plug end on the AC unit and try to run it off an extension cord.
So I put a new EMS board in it last night and everything ran fine for 30 minutes or so. Just long enough for me to get my hopes up thinking it was fixed. Same thing, generator died with 1 or both AC's on. Started generator again, turned AC's off, and tried water heater, same thing. Tried Microwave next, same thing. Went to change Fuel filter, and found water pump belt laying in access cover. Changed that last night so I'm back to square 1. Volt gauge plugged into one of the outlets by the dash is only reading 114v with generator running with or without a load. Seems like it was always higher than that but maybe not. Plugged into 50 amp at barn it reads 120v+
With the water pump belt on will the generator stay running?
Your manual will have the procedure for adjusting voltage and frequency. You'll need a load bank, I use ACs, electric heaters, microwave, anything else that draws a lot of current but doesn't pop breakers.
This is a long shot, but a friend had a similar problem and found his armature needed rebuilding. How many hours do you have on your generator? I'm surprised your generator ran more than 15 minutes with the water pump belt off. The temperature sensor should have shut it down in less than about 15 minutes of starting. Sorry your having problems.
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2002 Monaco Diplomat Triple Slide PST
2011 Buick Enclave(AWD);
1970 Home built 11.5 ft Slide-in Cabover
Agree . My Generac with no load should be like 62-63 Hz in procedure and makes like 125 v. Are you saying any load over 1000 watts is killing it or just ACs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Argosy
With the water pump belt on will the generator stay running?
Your manual will have the procedure for adjusting voltage and frequency. You'll need a load bank, I use ACs, electric heaters, microwave, anything else that draws a lot of current but doesn't pop breakers.
With the water pump belt on will the generator stay running?
Your manual will have the procedure for adjusting voltage and frequency. You'll need a load bank, I use ACs, electric heaters, microwave, anything else that draws a lot of current but doesn't pop breakers.
With belt on generator will run with or without a load till it gets hot then shuts down. I am replacing thermostat and sensor today and flushing radiator.
Upper and lower hoses are hot along with overflow tank, so assuming water pump is circulating
This is a long shot, but a friend had a similar problem and found his armature needed rebuilding. How many hours do you have on your generator? I'm surprised your generator ran more than 15 minutes with the water pump belt off. The temperature sensor should have shut it down in less than about 15 minutes of starting. Sorry your having problems.
Agree . My Generac with no load should be like 62-63 Hz in procedure and makes like 125 v. Are you saying any load over 1000 watts is killing it or just ACs.
It will run with any load until warm then shuts down
You stated that the generator will run with any load until it gets hot and shuts down. If that is the case...mine did the very same thing, which turned out to be the temperature sensor. If you are replacing it today you should know shortly if that's the cause. Good luck.
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2002 Monaco Diplomat Triple Slide PST
2011 Buick Enclave(AWD);
1970 Home built 11.5 ft Slide-in Cabover
Mutt: What temperature sensor are you referring to. Is it the coolant temp sensor? (See picture below.)
Also, are you saying that when you put too much load on the generator, the return to the Stator-Rotor is not able to receive it so the generator shuts down?
I know the two 35A circuit breakers protect the two neutral (white) wires on the Onan QD7500/8000, and since the load is not a short, which would exceed 35A, then is the fact these neutral breakers are NOT tripping an indicator the problem is with the magnets on the rotor?
Yes, the generator engine coolant thermostat failed and would shut the generator down as it warmed up. I forget the Code displayed.
And as far as the Armature rebuild I mentioned above, the guy said the armature got hot enough for the the solder to gave way. I didn't see it nor did I get into the details of his rebuild, but Cummins did the work. As I recall, the armature was the only thing rebuilt or replaced. It's been about 10 years ago.
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2002 Monaco Diplomat Triple Slide PST
2011 Buick Enclave(AWD);
1970 Home built 11.5 ft Slide-in Cabover
The service manual has troubleshoot flow charts. Oil pressure will decrease with higher temp, but LOP switch is usually a complete failure item and will shut down after 10sec when bad.
Replaced the temp sensor and thermostat and same issue. Ran for 20-25 minutes with no load then shut down. Same 33 code. Only thing left is radiator cap, waterpump, or radiator itself. Hoses are warm on top and bottom, and it feels like water flowing inside them so assuming water pump is working properly. I do still have the top cover off, read were that may disturb the fan cooling flow?
Linear Mode
